Dobinsons Suspension - 4th Gen Options

I need help like many others with Springs setup with my Radflo 2.5"
I just recently got them rebuilt, but I want to replace the springs front and rear. They have well over 100k on the springs itself. the fronts are 700lbs and the rears no clue. I have future plans of getting steel front and rear bumpers, with winch on the front. I tow 5k lbs or so with the 4runner. I also, love running fast on trails. Recommendations?

Hey bud. You just have to figure out how much weight is going to be on the rear and what lift height you want, then choose the most appropriate rear coil.

For the front, those are coilover coils most likely, so you'd have to choose matching rear coils from the Dobinsons options, here:
Coilover Coils Archives - Exit Offroad
 
Hey bud. You just have to figure out how much weight is going to be on the rear and what lift height you want, then choose the most appropriate rear coil.

For the front, those are coilover coils most likely, so you'd have to choose matching rear coils from the Dobinsons options, here:
Coilover Coils Archives - Exit Offroad

I understand, can you explain to me the rear coil spring numbers? C59-XXX, going to guess the last three numbers are the lbs
 
Weight?

Hey Mike, looking to get a 3" Dobinsons setup. I'd like to retain a decent ride but still not lose the lift when I go camping and load up. I get that static vs. dynamic weight can be tricky in determining coil rate, but I figure you have the experience to sort this out. How do I weigh my Runner correctly so that I order the appropriate parts? Is it simply find a place I can weigh it empty and then again with all my camping/wheeling gear? I have sliders and a steel front winch mount bumper. Where should I start?
 
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Hey Mike, looking to get a 3" Dobinsons setup. I'd like to retain a decent ride but still not lose the lift when I go camping and load up. I get that static vs. dynamic weight can be tricky in determining coil rate, but I figure you have the experience to sort this out. How do I weigh my Runner correctly so that I order the appropriate parts? Is it simply find a place I can weigh it empty and then again with all my camping/wheeling gear? I have sliders and a steel front winch mount bumper. Where should I start?

Hey bud. You just need to add up the weight you've added to it. You have to check with the brands you bought from on what those parts weigh. The bumper and winch for example could be 110lbs or 310lbs, depending on what they are and how they were made. We only loom at the added weight, not the truck weights.

Constant weight is the main concern, not when you load it up here and there for a trip, unless that weight is super excessive.
 
Hi Mike,

I've got a 2006 Limited V8 4WD. have decided to go with Dobinsons on the lift but trying to nail down all the options. Mild build planned with front and rear bumpers and winch. Eventually going up to a 34' tire from the 33's. That said, what I'm thinking about is the below:

-C59-352 Front coils
-GS59-220 extended travel front struts for added 1" lift

-C59-327 rear coils
-GS59-705 rear shocks

-Diff drop kit
-Front & Rear lean correction spacers
-Front sway bar relocate
-Extended rear end links

This seem close? My main question is, is the extended travel front a no no without extended travel rear? I'm mainly looking to make sure the truck ends up level and would like the additional front travel.

Thanks!
-Jay
 
Hi Mike,

I've got a 2006 Limited V8 4WD. have decided to go with Dobinsons on the lift but trying to nail down all the options. Mild build planned with front and rear bumpers and winch. Eventually going up to a 34' tire from the 33's. That said, what I'm thinking about is the below:

-C59-352 Front coils
-GS59-220 extended travel front struts for added 1" lift

-C59-327 rear coils
-GS59-705 rear shocks

-Diff drop kit
-Front & Rear lean correction spacers
-Front sway bar relocate
-Extended rear end links

This seem close? My main question is, is the extended travel front a no no without extended travel rear? I'm mainly looking to make sure the truck ends up level and would like the additional front travel.

Thanks!
-Jay
Hey Jay,

No, you treat the front and rear separately, so you don't have to match the travel front and rear.

That list of parts looks good. As long as it fits into the weight range of the bumpers you'll be adding. Just don't forget UCA's at that height as well.
 
I had picked out a Dobinsons lift before I found this post. I havn't finished but I put it on the ground to check the tire clearance to the front reservoir and I don't have the rear panhard attached. It is a bit taller than I had anticipated but maybe my factory springs were sagging.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/196073737@N07/52995022182/in/dateposted-public/" title="Springs installed"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52995022182_e62ac0356e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="Springs installed"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
I had picked out a Dobinsons lift before I found this post. I havn't finished but I put it on the ground to check the tire clearance to the front reservoir and I don't have the rear panhard attached. It is a bit taller than I had anticipated but maybe my factory springs were sagging.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/196073737@N07/52995022182/in/dateposted-public/" title="Springs installed"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52995022182_e62ac0356e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="Springs installed"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Ifs vehicles grab the ground when you lift then lower them. That's not a realistic way to see what lift you have. It has to be driven and settled to see
 
Ifs vehicles grab the ground when you lift then lower them. That's not a realistic way to see what lift you have. It has to be driven and settled to see

There isn't a lot of compression between full extension and ride height (with the weight currently on it) so scrub isn't going to change it a huge amount. I also have most of the alignment bolts loose so that could be causing all sorts of weirdness. There's still a lot of steps between where it is today and driving anywhere lol.

The Hilux Revo reservoir brackets that my kit came with aren't quite plug and play with my windshield washer reservoir. I had to put it on the ground to make sure that my slightly modified installation wasn't going to cause interference with my over size tires on bone stock 30mm offset rims. Everything looks good so fingers crossed that it will be up and running this weekend or early next week.
 
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CV59-554K - Outer CV Boot Kit
CV59-557K - Inner CV Boot Kit
CV-outer-boot-kit-a-350x350.jpeg

Comparison of stock to the Dobinsons CV boots installed
CV-boots-stock-vs-Dobinsons-scaled.jpg
 
[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]
Hi, Mike. I am trying to update my 14 year old suspension and get rid of X-REAS with a mild lift. About 2-2.5" of lift so I don't need to add or update other components like UCA, diff drop, or sway bar.
Currently running with aftermarket skid plate and rear drawer setup that I made.
Few questions I have:
What would be the downside of going with GS59-220 for front strut vs GS59-221? If I pair with correct springs to provide same amount of lift, won't GS59-220 always better by providing more travel? I am thinking C59-296 with GS59-220 for 2" lift vs C59-300 with GS59-221
Mostly looking for comfortable ride on highway, so pairing with comfort valved GS59-705 with either C59-325 or C59-675V. Which do you think will give more comfortable ride? Is C59-675V with 2.5" lift going to raise the rear too high than the front?

TIA
 
[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]
Hi, Mike. I am trying to update my 14 year old suspension and get rid of X-REAS with a mild lift. About 2-2.5" of lift so I don't need to add or update other components like UCA, diff drop, or sway bar.
Currently running with aftermarket skid plate and rear drawer setup that I made.
Few questions I have:
What would be the downside of going with GS59-220 for front strut vs GS59-221? If I pair with correct springs to provide same amount of lift, won't GS59-220 always better by providing more travel? I am thinking C59-296 with GS59-220 for 2" lift vs C59-300 with GS59-221
Mostly looking for comfortable ride on highway, so pairing with comfort valved GS59-705 with either C59-325 or C59-675V. Which do you think will give more comfortable ride? Is C59-675V with 2.5" lift going to raise the rear too high than the front?

TIA

Hey bud

Yeah, you can run the GS59-220 with an appropriate coil, but without aftermarket UCA's you won't get the extra droop those struts have. The stock ball joints in the stock UCA's will limit the travel. So it really wouldn't add any benefit at that point.

675V and 325's have almost the same final spring rate, so they would ride about the same. You don't want to lift the rear more than the front, as you'll be increasing rake, so C59-325 would be ideal if you're doing 2" up front.
 
Hey bud

Yeah, you can run the GS59-220 with an appropriate coil, but without aftermarket UCA's you won't get the extra droop those struts have. The stock ball joints in the stock UCA's will limit the travel. So it really wouldn't add any benefit at that point.

675V and 325's have almost the same final spring rate, so they would ride about the same. You don't want to lift the rear more than the front, as you'll be increasing rake, so C59-325 would be ideal if you're doing 2" up front.

Thank you, Mike! That helps me a lot.
 

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