Dobinsons Suspension - 4th Gen Options

[Crikeymike]

Not sure if any of you guys have been hanging out waiting for the Dobinsons tubular UCA's to come back in stock, but we just got a very limited amount of them in.

All backorders will be fulfilled from these, and there are extra's left for sale!!

4Runner UCA's by Dobinsons, also suit GX470 GX460, FJ Cruiser

 

[joshik]

677v height after settling

I had the 675s in previously and they were at 23" from center hub to fender. That was when I was "unloaded" with no kids and no camping gear... just about 75#s of gear i always have in the cargo area. I have a DIY 80/20 "Frontrunner" style rack I'd say about 125# above stock...?

When I'm loaded with camping gear and family, I drop at least an inch and with the 2" bump stop spacers to run the LT rear shocks, I would bottom out all the time even with the HSC and LSC adjusted waaaaaaaay up.

So, I just installed the 677v springs and now I'm sitting at 25" from center hub to fender. After some break-in/settle period, what do you think the final height would be? 24"....24.5"? I would think no more than 24" esp if the 675s were 23". The 677s are supposed to be only .5 taller than the 675s with stock weight.

 

[Crikeymike]

I had the 675s in previously and they were at 23" from center hub to fender. That was when I was "unloaded" with no kids and no camping gear... just about 75#s of gear i always have in the cargo area. I have a DIY 80/20 "Frontrunner" style rack I'd say about 125# above stock...?

When I'm loaded with camping gear and family, I drop at least an inch and with the 2" bump stop spacers to run the LT rear shocks, I would bottom out all the time even with the HSC and LSC adjusted waaaaaaaay up.

So, I just installed the 677v springs and now I'm sitting at 25" from center hub to fender. After some break-in/settle period, what do you think the final height would be? 24"....24.5"? I would think no more than 24" esp if the 675s were 23". The 677s are supposed to be only .5 taller than the 675s with stock weight.

Not sure how you were sitting at that height. The 675V sit at 24.5" normally. 677v at 25". 22" is the base rear stock height Dobinsons and us go by, so the lift heights are added to that.

 

[Masewi]

Hey Mike. I'm trying to decide between c59-325 and c59-327 or even c59-675v. I'm leaning towards 327 but the specs between the three seem very different, just worried about losing ride quality. I do have a full size spare, molle panels with a shelf, and I do always carry around some tools in the back. Approximate added weight is 150 pounds, maybe 200 at the very most daily driven. Fronts are on 3rd gen tacoma struts both sides sit at ~22". Rear is on bilstein 5100 and 5th gen springs with a 1.5" spacer at ~23-1/8". I want to retain the 2" lift in the back at ~24". Originally before the added weight it did sit at 24-24.5". Went camping fully loaded and it sagged real bad. TIA

 

[Crikeymike]

Hey Mike. I'm trying to decide between c59-325 and c59-327 or even c59-675v. I'm leaning towards 327 but the specs between the three seem very different, just worried about losing ride quality. I do have a full size spare, molle panels with a shelf, and I do always carry around some tools in the back. Approximate added weight is 150 pounds, maybe 200 at the very most daily driven. Fronts are on 3rd gen tacoma struts both sides sit at ~22". Rear is on bilstein 5100 and 5th gen springs with a 1.5" spacer at ~23-1/8". I want to retain the 2" lift in the back at ~24". Originally before the added weight it did sit at 24-24.5". Went camping fully loaded and it sagged real bad. TIA

327s would be the best at load handling your daily weight and camping weight without changing too much. The 325s and 675v would be too soft when fully loaded I think.

 

[joshik]

Not sure how you were sitting at that height. The 675V sit at 24.5" normally. 677v at 25". 22" is the base rear stock height Dobinsons and us go by, so the lift heights are added to that.

whoa really? Is that for the 4th gen before the face lift? The later 4th gens fenders are different but not sure how different. I have some stuff in the cargo area but I don't think THAT much to drop it 1.5" when not loaded with camping gear and kids. Oh but I did forget to mention that I am carrying a spare 285/70/17 Cooper AT3 XLT on a OEM Tundra alloy wheel in the OEM spare location.

When I did my first lift long ago with a 2" rear ICON spring I was at 24" in the rear. I ran the first sets of 6112s at the highest setting and my fronts were at 23.


Currently, I have the 220 with 302 coilover in the front set to 226mm. I want to say the front is at 22...ish. I can remeasure in the morning. My front is completely stock except some offroad lights. What are you typically expected numbers with the 302 front coils?

So now, I have quite a bit of rake but I kinda of like it. I did buy some 1/4 spacers for the front that I will put on next week.

 

[enilson]

Is anyone running the GS-220 long travel front struts? If so I could use your help (especially if you assembled them yourself).

I'm currently assembling them myself and saw that in the box they came with a little extra spacer in a plastic bag that said to place on top of the dust boot if you want 3" of lift or more (I don't). My goal is 2.5", 1" from LT struts and 1.5" from coils.

However, when prepping for assembly I noticed that there is one already on top of the dust boot (see pic).

My concern is that I don't want the extra lift from that spacer. So was that spacer already installed from the factory by mistake? Should I leave it on or take it off to get the desired 2.5" lift?

Thanks for the help as I'm halfway through the install already!

 

[Crikeymike]

Is anyone running the GS-220 long travel front struts? If so I could use your help (especially if you assembled them yourself).

I'm currently assembling them myself and saw that in the box they came with a little extra spacer in a plastic bag that said to place on top of the dust boot if you want 3" of lift or more (I don't). My goal is 2.5", 1" from LT struts and 1.5" from coils.

However, when prepping for assembly I noticed that there is one already on top of the dust boot (see pic).

My concern is that I don't want the extra lift from that spacer. So was that spacer already installed from the factory by mistake? Should I leave it on or take it off to get the desired 2.5" lift?

Thanks for the help as I'm halfway through the install already!

That's a droop spacer, adds more droop/down travel. You don't have to install it, just take it off.

 

[enilson]

That's a droop spacer, adds more droop/down travel. You don't have to install it, just take it off.

Thanks! Got everything buttoned up and was able to get a couple hundred miles of light off-roading since installation. Rides great for my application and a HUGE improvement over the stock coils and old 4600s.

I will say, I'm pretty surprised with how much lift I got (measured after a few hundred miles with lots of flexing, etc.). I was expecting +2.5" F / 1.5" R over stock but got more like +3.25" F / 2.75" R. Center of hub to fender measurements are 23.25" F / 24.75" R. Everything looks to be seated properly but I'm going to give another close inspection after another week (especially the rears).

Hoping it will settle a bit but not counting on it.

Parts Installed:
Front C59-350 / GS59-220
Rear C59-505 / GS59-705

A pic of the finished product

 

[parsky1]

Thanks! Got everything buttoned up and was able to get a couple hundred miles of light off-roading since installation. Rides great for my application and a HUGE improvement over the stock coils and old 4600s.

I will say, I'm pretty surprised with how much lift I got (measured after a few hundred miles with lots of flexing, etc.). I was expecting +2.5" F / 1.5" R over stock but got more like +3.25" F / 2.75" R. Center of hub to fender measurements are 23.25" F / 24.75" R. Everything looks to be seated properly but I'm going to give another close inspection after another week (especially the rears).

Hoping it will settle a bit but not counting on it.

Parts Installed:
Front C59-350 / GS59-220
Rear C59-505 / GS59-705

A pic of the finished product

Tire size?

 

[wrekreate]

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]

I am looking at an IMS kit for a 2008 v8. Looking at the 314’s upfront and long travel with the 675v’s out back. Truck is all stock at the moment but will be getting wheels and tires (285/70r17) at the same time.

Any suggestions one way or another here? Looking for as much articulation as possible. Truck will not be a high speed desert vehicle but will see lots of technical obstacles and washboard roads. Any concerns with up travel on the long travel rear setup?

Thank you for all of your information in this thread and on the forums!

 

[Crikeymike]

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]

I am looking at an IMS kit for a 2008 v8. Looking at the 314’s upfront and long travel with the 675v’s out back. Truck is all stock at the moment but will be getting wheels and tires (285/70r17) at the same time.

Any suggestions one way or another here? Looking for as much articulation as possible. Truck will not be a high speed desert vehicle but will see lots of technical obstacles and washboard roads. Any concerns with up travel on the long travel rear setup?

Thank you for all of your information in this thread and on the forums!

Hey bud.

Yeah, those coils will work well on a stock truck. Long travel in the rear though requires brake lines, panhard rod, bump stops or extensions, and upper and lower trailing arms. It's all detailed on our site here:
Dobinsons 1" to 3.5" IMS Lift Kit for Toyota 4Runner 4x4 2003-2009

You can't run the LT rear shocks without the other parts in place or they will bottom out and blow out.

 

[wrekreate]

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]

Thank you! I am aware of the extra parts required. I thought bare minimum to start was sway bar links, brake lines, and bump stops?

The 675v works with the regular rear shock as well?

Trying to get dialed before pulling the trigger. Looking for a slight rake to level as I load up for trips and occasional towing.

 

[Crikeymike]

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]

Thank you! I am aware of the extra parts required. I thought bare minimum to start was sway bar links, brake lines, and bump stops?

The 675v works with the regular rear shock as well?

Trying to get dialed before pulling the trigger. Looking for a slight rake to level as I load up for trips and occasional towing.

That's the bare minimum, but for proper long travel, all the combined parts should be added. The stock upper arm on the driver's side will dig into the fuel tank at full droop if it's not changed out for an offset one.

Yes, the regular rear shocks work for any lift of 0-3"

 

[wrekreate]

Thanks [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]

Ready to pull the trigger just curious what you would recommend between the 325 and the 675v for the rear if not going with the long travel shock? Lots of wheeling and some towing in the 4k range. Want the best control in the rocks without sagging too much when loaded. With the 314’s in front. Don’t mind a little rake that levels out some when loaded/towing.

Last question and thank you again. You are a great resource on the forums!

 

[Crikeymike]

Thanks [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]

Ready to pull the trigger just curious what you would recommend between the 325 and the 675v for the rear if not going with the long travel shock? Lots of wheeling and some towing in the 4k range. Want the best control in the rocks without sagging too much when loaded. With the 314’s in front. Don’t mind a little rake that levels out some when loaded/towing.

Last question and thank you again. You are a great resource on the forums!

The 325's would definitely handle the towing better. Many people that get the 675V end up going for something stronger when towing, as they just squat down too much when loaded down with heavy tongue weight.

 

[wrekreate]

Calling all Dobinsons gurus… ( [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] )

Just had MRRs installed and am thinking maybe they need to be tightened more? The top hat bushing seems relatively uncompressed and the rebound adjuster is practically making contact with the wheel well. Any input based on this image? Can provide more pictures but am having technical issues with the site at the moment so getting one up is a win.

Thanks!

 

[Crikeymike]

Calling all Dobinsons gurus… ( [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] )

Just had MRRs installed and am thinking maybe they need to be tightened more? The top hat bushing seems relatively uncompressed and the rebound adjuster is practically making contact with the wheel well. Any input based on this image? Can provide more pictures but am having technical issues with the site at the moment so getting one up is a win.

Thanks!

Yeah, those top bushings are not tightened down far enough. It will gain more top clearance once those are properly tight.

 

[wrekreate]

Yeah, those top bushings are not tightened down far enough. It will gain more top clearance once those are properly tight.

Thank you [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]

Is there a torque spec and procedure or just crank them down?

I leave with the family on a long road trip tomorrow and will not be able to get back to the shop that did the install as they are out of town a bit.

 

[Crikeymike]

Thank you [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]

Is there a torque spec and procedure or just crank them down?

I leave with the family on a long road trip tomorrow and will not be able to get back to the shop that did the install as they are out of town a bit.

Installation Instructions & User Guides - Exit Offroad
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgnJwAjQ9SQ&feature=youtu.be

You can try turning the lower nut in that photo, but most likely the shaft will spin. The top adjuster has to come off so that an allen key can go in there. The shop really had no clue what they were doing, plus they came with manuals showing all that.