Doing TBU and ran into problem

So I am in the middle of doing the TBU and after getting the passenger side complete, I started on the driver side. While taking off the caliper I noticed that one of the two caliper bolts was different. Uh oh. I removed it with some force and found that the PO, or a brake shop the PO took it to, must have stripped the steering knuckle threads and used a large bolt. Not only that but they had to drill out the opening in the caliper to fit the larger bolt. There was a spring thread repair thing inside the steering knuckle to hold the larger bolt.

I do not intend to put it back that way so now it looks like I need to replace the steering knuckle and haven't found a good write up on how to do this. I found one on ttora but the site hangs up so much it is useless.

Anyone here done this before? Do I need to remove the strut to do this? Help!!!

BTW, I have a 2002 2WD 4Runner.
 
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Sounds like a helicoil. (The spring thing) Try googling quicksert, they might have a thread repair kit that will suit your needs/get you back to stock.
 
Sounds like a helicoil. (The spring thing) Try googling quicksert, they might have a thread repair kit that will suit your needs/get you back to stock.

Thanks, but I would rather replace the steering knuckle with one that is not stripped so I can finish the TBU.

Anyone else with suggestions.
 
Thanks, but I would rather replace the steering knuckle with one that is not stripped so I can finish the TBU.

Anyone else with suggestions.

If the Heli-coil is fine, and the bolt is still compatible, I would run with it. Heli-coil is 100% valid and in many cases is actually stronger or just as strong as the threads it has repaired.
This is of course, assuming it was Heli-coiled correctly.
 
To replace the knuckle, you need to take the CV out. A 32mm socket, IIRC, but I did the manual swap so double check that.
Once the CV but is off, take the UBJ bolt off, and the 4 bolts from the LBJ. The knuckle will be hanging by the UBJ. Using a pickle fork and BFH, or a BJ puller, take the upper ball joint off of the upper control arm.

You're probably going to swap in a new UBJ into the new knuckle anyway, so the pickle fork and the BFH is A LOT easier than a ball joint press.

Reassemble in the opposite order, just use BLUE LOCTITE on the 4 LBJ bolts. And torque to specs.

Hope that helps.
 
Doc, thanks. That info is helpful. Do I need to worry about the strut or just let it extend when I separate the upper ball joint?

Also, my 4runner is 2wd. All the instructions I've seen explain how to take off a 4wd hub, not a 2wd hub. Even the FSM and Haynes don't really cover it. Any thoughts on how to separate the hub from the knuckle in a 2wd. I'd like to replace as little as possible to keep costs down. Thanks again.
 
Thanks, but I would rather replace the steering knuckle with one that is not stripped so I can finish the TBU.

Anyone else with suggestions.

Quicksert and helicoil kits allow you to fix the threads, and in most cases get the threads back to factory specs (as long as the bad hole is not too large) so all you would need is a new factory bolt for the caliper. (Then proceed with your TBU) If done properly, it would be like nothing was ever stripped, and you would not have to remove your steering knuckle. I have used them on some of our fleet vans (google ford blowing spark plugs out) and had great success.
 
Doc, thanks. That info is helpful. Do I need to worry about the strut or just let it extend when I separate the upper ball joint?



Also, my 4runner is 2wd. All the instructions I've seen explain how to take off a 4wd hub, not a 2wd hub. Even the FSM and Haynes don't really cover it. Any thoughts on how to separate the hub from the knuckle in a 2wd. I'd like to replace as little as possible to keep costs down. Thanks again.


You do t need to worry about the strut. It's bolted in 4 places. It's not going anywhere.

The 2wd and 4wd removal ore the same thing, with the exception of the CV.

Having said that, there are a couple things I didn't mention last night, that hopefully you have the right mind set to take off. The first, obviously, is the caliper. The second, is the brake line that is on the knuckle. The third, is the ABS sensor, if you have it. Lol.

To get the control arms closer to where you need them to be when you put the new knuckle in, use a ratchet strap. Go around the lower control arm, then through the upper control arm. Tighten the strap so that it brings the two down, until you can get the LBJ bolts to thread into the knuckle.

Make sense?
 
Hub bolt? There are no bolts in the hub?

You talking about the CV nut?

Either way, he doesn't need to worry about that, since he's a 2wd, but thanks for correcting. Like I said, I've got manual hubs, so I have 6-8 10mm bolts, then one 12mm bolt.
 
All good stuff, thanks. Here is an update on the situation. The caliper bolt hole in the steering knuckle was too big for the correct size bolt to fit in, so a new knuckle is in order. I found one on a same year 4Runner at the local Pull It yard and brought it home with the upper ball joint still intact and reusable. I will be replacing the lower ball joint.
Unfortunately I do not know the mileage of the donor so I don't know how much life the bearing has left and the dust shield was bent up a little around the rotor. I could probable bend the dust shield enough for it to work but what about the bearing.

I still can't figure out how to get to it. There is not a cover on the front of the hub like there is for a 4wd. There is one on the back that looks big enough to be able to access some sort of nut that holds it all together. I wasn't brave enough with out a replacement to start whacking on it with a chisel. Now I have one so I might as well see what happens.

Has anyone here replaced a front wheel bearing on a 2wd 4Runner?
 
For the sake of closure (too many threads never have the OP finish them and I feel like I am left hanging) I installed the "donor" steering knuckle yesterday and all seems to be fine. The upper ball joint looked better and felt better than my original and I reused, for the time being, my lower ball joints. Took it for a test ride and the bearings didn't make any noises, so I think I will call it a success. I will start a thread on the front bearings when I take apart the original knuckle. Thanks for all the input.
 
For the sake of closure (too many threads never have the OP finish them and I feel like I am left hanging) I installed the "donor" steering knuckle yesterday and all seems to be fine. The upper ball joint looked better and felt better than my original and I reused, for the time being, my lower ball joints. Took it for a test ride and the bearings didn't make any noises, so I think I will call it a success. I will start a thread on the front bearings when I take apart the original knuckle. Thanks for all the input.

I didn't do a super in-depth front bearing how-to, but check out my build thread (in my signature) for my front bearing replacement. I know someone else here (maybe singtoe?) did a bit more in-depth how-to as well.
 

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