No I have a YETI
Dometic fridge power
- Thread starter Isais101
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No I have a YETI
MTN4RNR
New member
If you look, there have been a few answers already from others for how long a battery can last with a fridge based on amp hour ratings, and there are a ton of different variables for how long a specific battery will last before being unable to start the vehicle. How many times the fridge is opened, ambient temperatures, sun exposure, how the fridge is packed, what temperature it is set at, etc... In general, with a single 24F battery, you're looking at about a 1 to 2 day run time before you will risk not being able to start with a CFX50, moderately packed, with a temp setting of low to mid 30's. But again, there are a ton of variables that can change that answer. You need to ask more specific questions to get a more accurate answer because everyone's setup and parameters are different.
Thank you well I have a dometic 35l nothing big. I just wanted to ask around about the single battery set up cuz i want to save some money going this route instead of the dual battery. My family and I are usually up the mountains of big bear or wrightwood about 3 times a month. I bought this dometic cooler for the convince of no ice and snacks for the kids. We never actually camp out there we stay for the day or just go on some exploring road trips. I want a battery that won’t die or leave me stranded out there especially with the family I think I going to go with the 27f battery. The x2 power battery is about $350 and the Duracell platinum is $199 about the same warranty so I’m doing research on the Duracell since it’s a bit cheaper on price thanks for you feed back I appreciate it.
MTN4RNR
New member
If you are not camping, or planning on running the fridge without the car being on for more than 24-36 hours, I would go with the 24F X2 and call it a day. You will be able to do what you want to do with room to spare without needing to worry about a dead battery. If you want added peace of mind, you should add a jump pack to your gear. Small and easy to store. Everyone who ventures out should have one IMO. This is the one that I have, and it has been great. As long as your battery isn't completely flat, you will have no problem jumping it.
In testing with the CFX50 in hot weather (110+), you cannot expect a stock sized battery to last more than 1/2 day and still start the car, even less if your battery setting on the fridge is set to medium. The compressor seems to run constantly when its hot out. I was actually worried that my friend was going to get stranded from this scenario that I sent her with a portable solar battery charger for when the battery died...which it did... Luckily she had the solar charger and was able to turn everything off and charge the battery for 4 hours in order to start the truck.
MTN4RNR
New member
It depends on the battery you have. I have an upgraded (stock size) 24F AGM battery and just last weekend had my 4Runner in 95 degree weather for over 24 hours with the fridge on and nearly empty (requiring more power to keep it cold), and it fired up without an issue. A stock OEM battery wouldn't stand a chance in the situation you described above, as mine died too under similar circumstances, prompting me to upgrade to the X2 AGM that I have now.
I killed my stock battery in about 6 months with the fridge on the highest voltage setting. The truck never didn't start though, I just lost too much battery capacity from cycling it that low until it could only run the fridge for about 8 hours.
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Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Takes a week or so for it to die. Lots of variables, fridge temp, passenger compartment temperature... can't really make a good chart here. Still need to use the voltage cutoff on the Dometic.
Single battery... time/engineering, Didn't want to re-arrange engine bay, or take up more cargo room in the back.
Single battery... time/engineering, Didn't want to re-arrange engine bay, or take up more cargo room in the back.
Jetboy
New member
IMO Solar > battery 2. Add solar first. Cost is probably cheaper in most cases. It's lighter. I lasts indefinitely. And it's portable. Buy a good quality charge controller! I have a rigid 100w panel. I use it on my camp trailer and my 4Runner. Mounts very easily to the 8020 rails on the 4runner in less than 5 minutes. I've used it as a roof platform for carrying soft bags at times too, but it's not designed for that. On the 4Runner it runs my fridge for as long as I want with the OEM battery being plenty for overnight.
If I were buying again - I'd get a suitcase style fold up solar setup. 100W is fine for a fridge. I'd go for a 200W for my camper.
When I have my camp trailer I have two additional deep cycle batteries in it. But they're heavy. And expensive. And need to be replaced every 5 years or so. The additional capacity is nice. It just wouldn't be my first choice to power a fridge. Now... if you want off the grid air conditioning - and no generators, dual deep cycle batteries, low draw A/C unit, and a lot of solar does a great job.
This is my typical setup - but keep in mind that by having the solar so you can move it and tilt toward the sun through the day you can probably double your solar output. If it's just a fridge though - 100W panel like this is more than enough. You'll notice no wires. I just use a set of quick disconnect (anderson) plugs and alligator clips to the battery terminals. During driving I just coil up the wires.
If I were buying again - I'd get a suitcase style fold up solar setup. 100W is fine for a fridge. I'd go for a 200W for my camper.
When I have my camp trailer I have two additional deep cycle batteries in it. But they're heavy. And expensive. And need to be replaced every 5 years or so. The additional capacity is nice. It just wouldn't be my first choice to power a fridge. Now... if you want off the grid air conditioning - and no generators, dual deep cycle batteries, low draw A/C unit, and a lot of solar does a great job.
This is my typical setup - but keep in mind that by having the solar so you can move it and tilt toward the sun through the day you can probably double your solar output. If it's just a fridge though - 100W panel like this is more than enough. You'll notice no wires. I just use a set of quick disconnect (anderson) plugs and alligator clips to the battery terminals. During driving I just coil up the wires.
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Tuc4R
New member
IMO Solar > battery 2. Add solar first. Cost is probably cheaper in most cases. It's lighter. I lasts indefinitely. And it's portable. Buy a good quality charge controller! I have a rigid 100w panel. I use it on my camp trailer and my 4Runner. Mounts very easily to the 8020 rails on the 4runner in less than 5 minutes. I've used it as a roof platform for carrying soft bags at times too, but it's not designed for that. On the 4Runner it runs my fridge for as long as I want with the OEM battery being plenty for overnight.
If I were buying again - I'd get a suitcase style fold up solar setup. 100W is fine for a fridge. I'd go for a 200W for my camper.
When I have my camp trailer I have two additional deep cycle batteries in it. But they're heavy. And expensive. And need to be replaced every 5 years or so. The additional capacity is nice. It just wouldn't be my first choice to power a fridge. Now... if you want off the grid air conditioning - and no generators, dual deep cycle batteries, low draw A/C unit, and a lot of solar does a great job.
This is my typical setup - but keep in mind that by having the solar so you can move it and tilt toward the sun through the day you can probably double your solar output. If it's just a fridge though - 100W panel like this is more than enough. You'll notice no wires. I just use a set of quick disconnect (anderson) plugs and alligator clips to the battery terminals. During driving I just coil up the wires.
So do you just leave your fridge plugged into the 4runner all the time, then plug the solar in during the day?
LandoSystem
New member
IMO Solar > battery 2. Add solar first. Cost is probably cheaper in most cases. It's lighter. I lasts indefinitely. And it's portable. Buy a good quality charge controller! I have a rigid 100w panel. I use it on my camp trailer and my 4Runner. Mounts very easily to the 8020 rails on the 4runner in less than 5 minutes. I've used it as a roof platform for carrying soft bags at times too, but it's not designed for that. On the 4Runner it runs my fridge for as long as I want with the OEM battery being plenty for overnight.
If I were buying again - I'd get a suitcase style fold up solar setup. 100W is fine for a fridge. I'd go for a 200W for my camper.
When I have my camp trailer I have two additional deep cycle batteries in it. But they're heavy. And expensive. And need to be replaced every 5 years or so. The additional capacity is nice. It just wouldn't be my first choice to power a fridge. Now... if you want off the grid air conditioning - and no generators, dual deep cycle batteries, low draw A/C unit, and a lot of solar does a great job.
This is my typical setup - but keep in mind that by having the solar so you can move it and tilt toward the sun through the day you can probably double your solar output. If it's just a fridge though - 100W panel like this is more than enough. You'll notice no wires. I just use a set of quick disconnect (anderson) plugs and alligator clips to the battery terminals. During driving I just coil up the wires.
Agreed, and I just did both :doh: The only caveat about doing solar first might be having to change wiring down the road --- if possible, leave some additional wire somewhere so you can pivot from the starter battery now to an aux battery later without having to rewire everything.
With a mostly empty 65l dometic, I'm seeing about 1amp/hour draw and a single 100w panel is getting me ~5.5amps @ 13.4 volts peak using a Victron 100/30 Smartsolar. I'm super curious to see what I'm going to get as the weather changes here (Seattle), but I'm also less likely to have the fridge in the truck all winter.
I'm height restricted in my garage, so I opted for "Allpowers" flexible panels instead of a rigid panel (they're about 2mm thick). I've got two of them mounted side by side on Rago cross bars --- why buy one when you can get two for twice the price! It's not pretty (zip ties & black 100mph tape) but it has held up well over the past few weeks. The panels hang off the the leading/trailing edges of the cross bars & the rails, but other than looking a little ugly, it hasn't been a problem. When i get around to panting the factory rails, it'll be less noticeable.
I'm considering trying a piece of clear acrylic or something on top of the panels to mitigate against rocks/road debris, but haven't made it that far in my install.
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Jetboy
New member
I don't think a car wash would hurt it at all. They're designed to stand up to weather - like hail, rain, etc. My solar panels on my home have been though everything including multiple feet of snow load. No problems.
I think within ~ 5 years we'll have solar awnings available that will have more like 500w capacity.
I'm also going this route with a portable Battery pak. My plan is to start out with a charger. Batteries to me have been confusing when trying to pick one. I ended up just buying a Renogy 100ah AMG deep cycle. my second step is going solar with a 100w portable panel. My 3rd step is going with a dc dc Ctek charger. Not sure if the Ctek will work with that deep cycle battery..?
I can't afford to do everything at once. The outcome will always be to have a portable Battery pak that I can take out of the vehicle and use in another with the same setup.
when you only have step one, how are you charging the 100ah battery? you'll need some kind of charger to use that battery
Jetboy
New member
Basically - yes. Fridge stays plugged into the car and connected to the battery. I have a separate wire run because it's more efficient to use larger gauge wires from the battery to the fridge. This can also be something you just run externally when you need it. The rear power outlet is fine when the vehicle is running. Most charge controllers have a separate circuit for accessories like a fridge - but I don't use that function. 99% of them are built for lighting and the output that is for accessory circuits is designed to rely on the solar output as a type of ambient light sensor so they turn on only when it's dark out. There are a range of other time based settings - but none of those are what you want for this task. Just have the fridge plugged into the battery. The fridge has its own power management system.
Then when I'm parked at camp I just get the wire I use out and plug it in to the output plug on the charger and go from there there to the battery. It's the equivalent of plugging an extension cord in on the roof and then clipping jumper cables to the battery on the other end. Takes about 30 seconds total.
I just glued the charge controller to the back of the panel. So it lives directly on the solar panel.
If I'm driving the vehicle I don't need the solar. It's only an issue if the vehicle is parked for a day or more. For me it's not uncommon to spend 2-3 days at one base camp spot to go hiking or biking from. That's where the solar is great.
I'm surprised that Dometic or others aren't already making fridges with integrated batteries. A relatively small lithium battery built into the fridge would be the best solution.
Finally - I always carry a lithium jumper set. Just in case. Especially if I'm alone.
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Looking for a good multi stage 10-20A charger... I've heard that the AGM battery's need a minimum of 10% of the AH for charging. I have a couple Battery Tender float chargers for now.
nevada
Senior Member
I would be careful doing that, even clear glass can reduce the output of solar panels.
quality panels are very tough, I doubt a bit of road debris will be a concern.
so you're charging at home then taking the battery, or are you running the charger off the 120V outlet in the rear?
one thing to keep an eye on if you're not charging on the go is that that renogy battery is that i notice on the website they list the 10hr discharge capacity instead of the more typical (for automotive batteries) 20 hr discharge. this in and of itself doesn't really mean anything, but maybe they are using 10-hr because the battery is high rate battery (like from a UPS) rather than a deep cycle battery which would mean it wouldn't like deep cycling. I have no idea if this is true, maybe using 10-hr discharge is typical for the solar industry, but I would look into it.
when my 31m dies i'm going to get a smaller started battery and a LiFePO4 battery in the back for the fridge and whatever else. Some of these expensive battery and dual battery kit setups are already at least as expensive as LiFePO4.
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Tuc4R
New member
Thanks for that explanation. I do carry a lithium jumper, it’s saved me a time or 2. lol
I’m thinking about getting an aux battery tray and putting a AGM battery there by itself isolated, and charging using solar or a charger at home. I will eventually set it up as a true dual battery if needed.
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