Driver's Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair [step-by-step w/ pics!!]

[mooch91]

Installed replacement and all went well for about a week, then it stated acting up, making an odd grinding sound. Then the key would no longer work, insert and turns but does nothing. So ordered a new unit, swapped it out and the same issue, the key manually will not work. The remote unlocks/locks it fine though. The key worked on the original unit that would not work with the remote. I'm at a total loss? Two units from different manufactures fail in the same way? Something tells me Im doing something wrong.

I recommend checking out this post if you haven't. My key cylinder was not mated with the actuator properly and I had similar problems.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2856103-post24.html

 

[mbumpus11]

I recommend checking out this post if you haven't. My key cylinder was not mated with the actuator properly and I had similar problems.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2856103-post24.html

THIS! Reading through the thread you will see this was the one part that I missed initially in my repair and had to go back to fix myself.

Thanks for pointing this out for others that may (re: will likely) have the same issue!

 

[MAXISTYLES]

[MENTION=123822]mbumpus11[/MENTION]. Thanks for your write up. I just changed my front passenger side lock actuator on my 2013 4R. This was the first actuator that failed so far. I ended up buying the entire lock actuator assembly for $22 on Ebay instead of the little motor alone. The entire job took me 40 min and everything went super smooth.

Here is the link for the part.

New Front Door Lock Actuator with Latch Right Passenger for Lexus Scion Toyota | eBay

Its sold by a company called Forever Run Auto.

 

[mbumpus11]

[MENTION=123822]mbumpus11[/MENTION]. Thanks for your write up. I just changed my front passenger side lock actuator on my 2013 4R. This was the first actuator that failed so far. I ended up buying the entire lock actuator assembly for $22 on Ebay instead of the little motor alone. The entire job took me 40 min and everything went super smooth.

Thanks for the kudos, and glad it helped you out. That is a steal on the lock actuator for only $22! Was it a private individual, or a parts seller? if parts seller, do you have a link for others who may want to go that route?

 

[curmudge1]

I don't understand the middle picture

Sorry, I'm dense I guess ....
I replaced my driver's door actuator over a year ago, but it won't unlock by using the key in the door. Sounds like this is the fix, but I don't understand what "mo8ftbl" is doing to change the mechanism alignment in the middle picture... better use small words, please. Thanks.
--
Dave

QUOTE=mo8ftbl;2856103]I really appreciate you guys putting up all the pictures and information. I am just wrapping up my install. I'd say this took me about 3 hours. Removing the door took about 15 minutes, the actuator only took about 15 minutes, but putting the stupid panel back together...holy crap. Anyways i just wanted to say thanks. Also, i had the same issue with the actual key lock not catching the barrel. You do not have to take the panel apart.[/QUOTE]

 

[mbumpus11]

Sorry, I'm dense I guess ....
I replaced my driver's door actuator over a year ago, but it won't unlock by using the key in the door. Sounds like this is the fix, but I don't understand what "mo8ftbl" is doing to change the mechanism alignment in the middle picture... better use small words, please. Thanks.
--
Dave

QUOTE=mo8ftbl;2856103]I really appreciate you guys putting up all the pictures and information. I am just wrapping up my install. I'd say this took me about 3 hours. Removing the door took about 15 minutes, the actuator only took about 15 minutes, but putting the stupid panel back together...holy crap. Anyways i just wanted to say thanks. Also, i had the same issue with the actual key lock not catching the barrel. You do not have to take the panel apart.

[/QUOTE]

Best answer comes from [MENTION=105008]Simonpk[/MENTION] in this post: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2811228-post22.html

the lock barrel is what the door opening lever must fit into, so pull the rubber grommet that is about even with your door handle (on the doorjamb above the latch), and then inside there is where you find the torx screw mentioned. Loosen that and then you can "thread" the door opening lever back into the door handle. Your key should work after that!

 

[rjmarmjr]

Just ordered a full replacement actuator from RockAuto for about $50...figured I'll replace the whole thing than to take the original one apart to replace the motor...thanks for all of the info in this thread. Hopefully I can get it replaced with minimal F-Bombs.

Mind sharing the link and how it went? Would consider paying a bit more to lessen the workload.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[6thFairway]

the dealership isn't going to take apart the actuator to replace the motor, they have to replace the entire actuator so that's why the part is so expensive. also, that replacement actuator will also die, they haven't solved the problem (i think someone here was on their 5th set of actuators)

you don't have to be skilled or experienced to replace the motor, even if it's the first time you've attempted to do something on your vehicle you shouldn't have any issue if you follow the writeup and videos


My driver's side failed around 35k miles, passenger around 45k miles and rear doors started sounding sluggish at same time around 45k (i didn't bother with warranty because i knew they would just replace with the same part that will faila gain)

My drivers and left rear passenger door lock actuators both failed and I had them replaced at a local shop for between $400-500.

Now my right rear actuator is failing. My car is at the dealer (airbag recall) and he gave me a ballpark $500 price estimate.

It's incredibly frustrating that this is happening so frequently on a 2016 TE. Sounds like a totally crap design.

I appreciate the how-to. I'm not sure I'm enough of a do-it-yourselfer to do it.

 

[jhguth]

My drivers and left rear passenger door lock actuators both failed and I had them replaced at a local shop for between $400-500.

Now my right rear actuator is failing. My car is at the dealer (airbag recall) and he gave me a ballpark $500 price estimate.

It's incredibly frustrating that this is happening so frequently on a 2016 TE. Sounds like a totally crap design.

I appreciate the how-to. I'm not sure I'm enough of a do-it-yourselfer to do it.

It's really easy, worst case buy the full assembly online for tens of dollars instead of hundreds and it will take even less time to do

 

[mike33angel]

Reversed polarity?

Hey guys,

I bought two motors from amazon to replace the one on my front passenger door lock actuator. However, after putting it back together and upon testing; when I press the unlock buttons on both the door switch and the key fob, the door would actually lock and vice versa. I tried both new motors and they both did the same thing. I did not think it was possible since I just slapped on the motors and didnt mess with the wirings. Has anyone encountered this same problem and have come up with a solution?

 

[mbumpus11]

My drivers and left rear passenger door lock actuators both failed and I had them replaced at a local shop for between $400-500.

Now my right rear actuator is failing. My car is at the dealer (airbag recall) and he gave me a ballpark $500 price estimate.

It's incredibly frustrating that this is happening so frequently on a 2016 TE. Sounds like a totally crap design.

I appreciate the how-to. I'm not sure I'm enough of a do-it-yourselfer to do it.

I promise you can do it! I figure it is much easier on the pocket to at least give it a try. I think you'd surprise yourself and get it done. There are several in this thread that have said similar, then been surprised at how easy it was to complete.

However, you know you, so if you really don't think you can do it, I (we at the forum) will understand!

 

[mbumpus11]

Hey guys,

I bought two motors from amazon to replace the one on my front passenger door lock actuator. However, after putting it back together and upon testing; when I press the unlock buttons on both the door switch and the key fob, the door would actually lock and vice versa. I tried both new motors and they both did the same thing. I did not think it was possible since I just slapped on the motors and didnt mess with the wirings. Has anyone encountered this same problem and have come up with a solution?

This is very interesting - and I look forward to hearing if anyone else has experienced this.

I have seen a few different motors that have contacts on both sides, so make sure yours didn't have that and it wasn't placed in the actuator body backwards. Also, I'm curious if the spin of the motor spindle itself is opposite of stock rotation upon engaging the buttons. I bought my replacement motors from ebay, but several have had good luck with the ones purchased from Amazon. Maybe one of those users will speak up to their experience!

Keep us updated!

 

[JayDaz]

Is this a common thing? It seems odd to me that a 2-year-old door lock actuator would go bad.

I have a 5th gen 2015 with about 35000 miles on her and had this happen. I've looked it up a lot and unfortunately, it's more common than you think.

 

[Blu42]

I just finished following these steps and everything worked out great. Lets be clear here; I hate working on door panels. This door was no different. The interior handle and lock cables were a welcome change from the rods I have previously dealt with. My issues were really during reassembly. Hooking in the panel window seal at the top while getting the top clip just beneath the wire harness was hard for me. Like I got angry kinda difficult. I reassembled my door 3 times...

1. I assembled the door panel and noticed I forgot to put the weather stripping back on around the latch.
2. I assembled the door for the 2nd time and pulled the exterior handle. Yeah, forgot to connect the handle rod to the actuator.
3. I assembled the door the 3rd time and everything was fine.

Link to motor I ordered: FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYD0QVK

Thanks for info!

 

[mbumpus11]

I just finished following these steps and everything worked out great. Lets be clear here; I hate working on door panels. This door was no different. The interior handle and lock cables were a welcome change from the rods I have previously dealt with. My issues were really during reassembly. Hooking in the panel window seal at the top while getting the top clip just beneath the wire harness was hard for me. Like I got angry kinda difficult. I reassembled my door 3 times...

1. I assembled the door panel and noticed I forgot to put the weather stripping back on around the latch.
2. I assembled the door for the 2nd time and pulled the exterior handle. Yeah, forgot to connect the handle rod to the actuator.
3. I assembled the door the 3rd time and everything was fine.

Link to motor I ordered: FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYD0QVK

Thanks for info!

I, too, was very frustrated when I forgot to reconnect the exterior door handle to the rod. For anyone reading this at this point, don't forget that you don't have to disassemble to door panel completely to re-engage the exterior door handle rod.

See link here, and read the couple of posts below: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2811228-post22.html

 

[whiplashtx]

Just got through replacing the drivers door actuator and this thread was a big help. I did find a few useful things that helped.

Already mentioned but read the thread all the way through first, I had to go back and reset the door handle lever.

Rolling down the window helps a lot in rehanging the door panel but reinstall the actuator assembly before rolling it down.

The metal faceplate pops right off with a screw driver, see pic below.

 

[tchfall15]

Thanks for the write up. I did my driver's door perfect. I did the rear passenger and put everything back together except the door panel and my door will not open. Did I not align something correctly? Any way to get the door open?

I hooked the fork like thing around the rod of the actuator. I went from the inside to get the panel as class as possible to hook up the two pull wires for the doorlock and the door handle and the handle from the inside doesn't work. I tried moving the rod and nothing. Any suggestions?

 

[Askalyota]

Thanks for the write up. I did my driver's door perfect. I did the rear passenger and put everything back together except the door panel and my door will not open. Did I not align something correctly? Any way to get the door open?

I hooked the fork like thing around the rod of the actuator. I went from the inside to get the panel as class as possible to hook up the two pull wires for the doorlock and the door handle and the handle from the inside doesn't work. I tried moving the rod and nothing. Any suggestions?

I had the same problem. I think your problem is with the one of the two cable wires that connect to the inside door lever. The problem is with the green wire cable end. First make sure you set the child safety lock set to unlock so you can open the door from the inside. The cable wire with the green cap will need to be almost push inside the cable about 3/4 way in toward the actuator. If you pull wire all the out away from the actuator the safety lever with not work. Be very careful pulling the wire back and forth. It may disengage from the actuator and you will have to pull the actuator out again like I did and start over. Not a big deal but a pain in the a*s. If you can activate the safety lock up and down then you got it zeroed in and you can snap it in position back to the door panel. Keep the door panel as close to the door as you can as you may pull that green wire out of position in the cable if the panel is way to far from the door. Keep checking that safety switch making sure you can push it up and down before you put back the door panel. Hope this helps

 

[tchfall15]

Not sure if I’m following you... but I have the inside panel off and I am able to fit a screw driver to the child safety lock and it in not engaged. When I move the rod back and forth by hand it does nothing and I can hear it in the actuator moving freely. I moved the inside panel as close as possible to the door and attached the rods and the handle doesn’t work. I do not think the mechanism for the lever rod was lined up correctly when I put the actuator back together. So not sure how I can get the door open to remove the actuator and reset it.

 

[tchfall15]

Now I am following you. I thought I disengaged the child lock before closing the door by guess not. So I was able to push the cable in to release the child lock. Still nothing when I connect the interior handle or used the exterior handle. I have tried flipping it back and forth a couple times and still nothing. I tried pulling down on the rod and fork like thing inside the door by the actuator and still can’t get it to open. Other thoughts or ideas?