Driver's Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair [step-by-step w/ pics!!]

[spbridenstine]

Now the fun stuff, and where the "part 2" Youtube video comes to help.

Hope this helps someone else!

Hey, nearly three years later, your post is still helping folks. Just finished changing mine using your tutorial. Thanks!

Edit: Not so fast my friend! I had the issue where my door wouldn’t open from the outside. I could hear a “clunk” when I tried to do it. The rod that dangles down from the exterior opening assembly has to fit into the hole that I’ve got circled in the picture below. I DID have to take the panel back off, peel back the weather proofing plastic, and take out the torx bolts, but didn’t pull the actuator back out (obviously). Hope this helps if anyone else has trouble.

 

[mbumpus11]

Hey, nearly three years later, your post is still helping folks. Just finished changing mine using your tutorial. Thanks!

Edit: Not so fast my friend! I had the issue where my door wouldn’t open from the outside. I could hear a “clunk” when I tried to do it. The rod that dangles down from the exterior opening assembly has to fit into the hole that I’ve got circled in the picture below. I DID have to take the panel back off, peel back the weather proofing plastic, and take out the torx bolts, but didn’t pull the actuator back out (obviously). Hope this helps if anyone else has trouble.

On a prior page I followed up to another member using my write up which mentioned the need to line up the physical door handle rod, but it is easily looked over!

The exact posts (I didn't take pics when I fixed this step) from the other member (@mo8ftbl - great assist) are: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2856103-post24.html and https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2811228-post22.html which explain that you don't have to take the panel all the way off again - just remove the grommet in the door to view/access the aligning of the rod within the plastic housing in the actuator. I will update the original post to make this more clear!

Overall - glad to hear that my post got you to about 98% there.

 

[spbridenstine]

On a prior page I followed up to another member using my write up which mentioned the need to line up the physical door handle rod, but it is easily looked over!

The exact posts (I didn't take pics when I fixed this step) from the other member (@mo8ftbl - great assist) are: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2856103-post24.html and https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2811228-post22.html which explain that you don't have to take the panel all the way off again - just remove the grommet in the door to view/access the aligning of the rod within the plastic housing in the actuator. I will update the original post to make this more clear!

Overall - glad to hear that my post got you to about 98% there.

Ok, thanks again! And, I’m gonna get some more practice, because the passenger lock quit working today!

 

[mbumpus11]

Ok, thanks again! And, I’m gonna get some more practice, because the passenger lock quit working today!

Ohhhhhhh yeah...let us know how it turns out! I bet you'll be at least 15 minutes faster this time, if not more!

 

[ChopperMario]

Swapped my driver's door actuator today. If you follow this guide, especially the pro tip about taking the locking mechanism out so as to make inserting it back into the new actuator a piece of cake, the whole process will likely take you less than an hour. The most tricky part if there is one is putting the panel back on, specifically the initial hanging of it on the ledge.

BTW I picked up an entire replacement unit. Probably will put a new motor in the OEM one just in case the aftermarket one doesn't last. I bet i could swap one out I'm about 20 minutes now start to finish.

 

[mbumpus11]

Swapped my driver's door actuator today. If you follow this guide, especially the pro tip about taking the locking mechanism out so as to make inserting it back into the new actuator a piece of cake, the whole process will likely take you less than an hour. The most tricky part if there is one is putting the panel back on, specifically the initial hanging of it on the ledge.

BTW I picked up an entire replacement unit. Probably will put a new motor in the OEM one just in case the aftermarket one doesn't last. I bet i could swap one out I'm about 20 minutes now start to finish.

Glad to hear the guide helped!

 

[Toffees]

Thanks very much for the writeup and discussion. I think this repair job is in my future, but a few questions and comments first to make sure I'm on the right track (and I'll accept sarcastic responses as well.)

The issue I'm having with my passenger front door (LE) is sometimes it won't unlock with the handle or fob and double beeps, or sometimes it will beep but not lock. This is intermittent although when it stops working it does so for a few days. I've got an extended warranty so I know I can have the dealer look at this (a) if I can get it to repeat the symptom when I show up and (b) if I want to talk to them.

So, (1) are my symptoms consistent with the door lock actuator/motor replacement or do I need to look at other problems to diagnose as well?

(2) should I buy extra motors for the impending failure of other doors or since I've only had issues on one door should I assume the others are fine?

(3) for anyone who was a teen in the 90s, these motors remind me of Record Breakers cars.

 

[mbumpus11]

Thanks very much for the writeup and discussion. I think this repair job is in my future, but a few questions and comments first to make sure I'm on the right track (and I'll accept sarcastic responses as well.)

The issue I'm having with my passenger front door (LE) is sometimes it won't unlock with the handle or fob and double beeps, or sometimes it will beep but not lock. This is intermittent although when it stops working it does so for a few days. I've got an extended warranty so I know I can have the dealer look at this (a) if I can get it to repeat the symptom when I show up and (b) if I want to talk to them.

So, (1) are my symptoms consistent with the door lock actuator/motor replacement or do I need to look at other problems to diagnose as well?

(2) should I buy extra motors for the impending failure of other doors or since I've only had issues on one door should I assume the others are fine?

(3) for anyone who was a teen in the 90s, these motors remind me of Record Breakers cars.

Hey there - you're certainly experiencing what most of us have dealt with and had to fight through the diagnostic, but thankfully others out there went before me, and my write up was putting together as much of that knowledge for people wondering wtf was happening!

To answer your question outright - yes, that is telltale sign of failing actuator. Other signs are if you lock the car and you hear the "lock" sound from outside the vehicle, but the map/console lights don't turn off. Or if you hear a sort of whine/whimper from the door (like it's letting out it's final breath), etc. The electrical signal from your fob is getting to the vehicle, but the motor inside the actuator itself is not reacting which results in your door not locking.

As for replacement, if you can recreate it then I'd go to the dealership and mention it to them per your extended warranty. I'm not sure exactly what all is covered, but I believe internal door locks/latching is covered.

The motors are very cheap, and readily available, so I don't think you would need to buy enough for all four doors. If you want to, then I'm sure it won't hurt. Just make sure you store them somewhere where they won't be impacted by dirt/dust, or inclement weather. Otherwise the issue is so random that you might have a motor fail once, and then work flawlessly for the next two or three years. Or it may just die and never work again. Who knows!

 

[curmudge1]

Getting the key to work...

I had the "key doesn't work after I put the door together" problem, but I could not understand the sequence of pics in this post, I think it's me, because this thread was very helpful. I replaced the door actuator 2&1/2 years ago, but been too busy to really work on this... now, with covid-19 things are a bit quieter...

In case someone else has the same mental impairment...
You see the pics in this:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2856103-post24.html

So, what I figured out after I took the door panel off again today, is that when you unscrew the torx thing "all the way", the part of the outside door handle that the key goes into comes off/out... now that I know, the pic in the post referenced is very clear... anyway, then you line up the cross/X at the end of the key part with the socket, maybe put the key in & wiggle a bit while pushing in, and bingo, now the key works... tighten up the torx and all good. I just had a mental block when I read the posts & looked at the pics.

Now, however, the inside door handle does not work... <sigh> I took the panel off 4 or 5 times, and it seems like the ball at the end of the cable is getting pushed forward out of the socket it's supposed to sit in. I can push the cable in & set the ball in place and see how the lever pulls it & pushes it... just seems like the ball is not captive enough, perhaps a piece of the ball cage broke off...?? time to look at some pictures again, zoom in, search the forum.

anyway, I'm learning lots from this forum... 2 door actuators replaced so far (driver & driver rear). Thanks, everyone.

 

[curmudge1]

Doh!

looked at some videos, last one on youtube by tacotunes (thanks!) about removing the door... and I realized that I had switched the cables. Green goes on the bottom. Careless of me... but anyway, all's well that ends well. I can use the key & both door handles work. <sigh>

 

[Riverfisher]

Shaft Length- 10mm or 20mm?

I have the same issue on my 2017 TRDORP on the driver front door. I am looking to order the replacement motor before following the awesome instructions provided. When I pull up the eBay link, there are two options for the flat shaft motors, 10mm and 20mm. Which one is needed?
Thanks!!

Great post!

Including the name of the motor in case that Ebay page disappears:
Mabuchi Nichibo Door Lock Repair Motor Flat Shaft - Brass Collar FC-280PT-22125

[MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] one for the Write-up sticky!

 

[tchfall15]

If you go this route, make sure it is working before you close the door and put the panel on. My first one I did perfect but my next one I messed up. Luckily I didn’t put the panel on so I was able to break apart the housing and release it with a screw driver. I needed to buy a actuator from rock auto anyways. If I do it again, I am buying the whole thing from rock auto instead of replacing the small piece that fails.

 

[jrandom]

I have the same issue on my 2017 TRDORP on the driver front door. I am looking to order the replacement motor before following the awesome instructions provided. When I pull up the eBay link, there are two options for the flat shaft motors, 10mm and 20mm. Which one is needed?
Thanks!!

I only get one result when I search for that a 10mm. From the image it looks like a 10mm. If you are in doubt just buy the 20mm and cut/grind it down if you need too.

Couple bucks more but:
Amazon.com: 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine: Home Improvement

 

[Strider7]

Thanks for this thread!

Many thanks to the OP - This thread helped me out immensely!

I Finally got this done on ‘The Boss Lady’s 2013 4R ... just in time to sell it. I’d only been sitting on the new motors for a year and a half or so - I guess I was just dreading having to get into the door ... that black tar, yuck.

Surprisingly, this wasn’t a bad repair - I should have done it sooner.

Thanks again for a great write up and the photos.:thanks::nicethread:

 

[Riverfisher]

Thank you!

Major props and a huge thank you for such an excellent write up. I was able to fix my driver side door in about an hour and it works great!!

 

[Chilow]

I haven't experienced any issues yet, but would like to order some as spare parts in the event they abruptly fail so I can fix it immediately since my vehicle is parked outside.

It seems this only happens on the front driver and passenger doors. Do the rear doors have this issue as well? If so, are the motors the same for all doors or are they side-specific?

 

[jhguth]

it does happen to the rear just not as frequently

 

[USCLaw2002]

On a prior page I followed up to another member using my write up which mentioned the need to line up the physical door handle rod, but it is easily looked over!

The exact posts (I didn't take pics when I fixed this step) from the other member (@mo8ftbl - great assist) are: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2856103-post24.html and https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2811228-post22.html which explain that you don't have to take the panel all the way off again - just remove the grommet in the door to view/access the aligning of the rod within the plastic housing in the actuator. I will update the original post to make this more clear!

Overall - glad to hear that my post got you to about 98% there.

Hey! Ran across this thread while sitting at the dealership for another issue and they told me it would be $600 to be able to unlock my door remotely again... Great write up, bought an actuator from Amazon for $32 and the repair went great but had the same issue as above and can't get it corrected. Any trick to getting the door handle rod lined up in the actuator? It seems like I will have it but then when I tighten the torx screws it comes out. I have taken everything apart and re-installed about four times to no avail (the good thing is I can take the door panel off and on in about three minutes lol). Any tips to getting it lined up? Not a huge deal, I hardly ever use the key to open the lock and if I got in a bind could unlock from the back but still... I want it done right. Also, when I open the door it moves a little bit and makes a sound almost like its not lined up right. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!

 

[mbumpus11]

Hey! Ran across this thread while sitting at the dealership for another issue and they told me it would be $600 to be able to unlock my door remotely again... Great write up, bought an actuator from Amazon for $32 and the repair went great but had the same issue as above and can't get it corrected. Any trick to getting the door handle rod lined up in the actuator? It seems like I will have it but then when I tighten the torx screws it comes out. I have taken everything apart and re-installed about four times to no avail (the good thing is I can take the door panel off and on in about three minutes lol). Any tips to getting it lined up? Not a huge deal, I hardly ever use the key to open the lock and if I got in a bind could unlock from the back but still... I want it done right. Also, when I open the door it moves a little bit and makes a sound almost like its not lined up right. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!

Glad to hear you found this thread and has helped you (at least on the money savings part)!

As for lining up the rod into the latch/tumbler, if you remove that grommet, you'll be able to look inside the door and see where the rod meets up with the physical mechanism. It's kind of a funny shape (if I recall correctly) and the rod has a little jog in it. Just make sure you get that bottom piece into the hole on the internal mechanism, and I think you'll be fine. I'll see if I can pull the grommet in a few and take some pics for you so you know what to look for.

 

[gshadow325]

Has anyone tried this on other Toyotas/lexus they own? My lexus hasn't failed yet but other members in the group has had it fail and those p*ssies don't get dirt under their finger nails and pay 600 for the stealership to put a new one in.

I would think they all may be the same. Just wondering.