Driving through water

[MossJenks]

Yeah, that's what he's talking about and a breather is what needs to happen. The 1-way valve lets pressure out but won't let anything back in. That's good in it's low down location because it won't suck water back in. But what can happen is that so much of a vacuum is created by rapid cooling of the diff case that water ends up getting sucked in through the seals, resulting in water in the oil and possible seal damage. If you just relocate the 1-way valve you don't fix this at all and if you put a 2-way breather in place of it in the stock location it could suck water through the breather - possibly even when not submerged but with a lot of road spray . So the "breather mod" is properly done by mounting a 2-way breather up high where the water can't get to it as easily.

 

[snif6969]

Yeah, that's what he's talking about and a breather is what needs to happen. The 1-way valve lets pressure out but won't let anything back in. That's good in it's low down location because it won't suck water back in. But what can happen is that so much of a vacuum is created by rapid cooling of the diff case that water ends up getting sucked in through the seals, resulting in water in the oil and possible seal damage. If you just relocate the 1-way valve you don't fix this at all and if you put a 2-way breather in place of it in the stock location it could suck water through the breather - possibly even when not submerged but with a lot of road spray . So the "breather mod" is properly done by mounting a 2-way breather up high where the water can't get to it as easily.

And this is what the ARB kit does ? (extention+2way?)

 

[MossJenks]

It is, but I would recommend following one of the DIY threads around here instead of getting the ARB kit. All you need are a couple of cheap Toyota parts (a nipple and a breather), a length of fuel line and a couple of hose clamps. Plus a "T" if you have the e-locker to contend with. With the ARB kit you still need the nipple (and maybe the T?) and it doesn't solve the "hard parts" of the breather install - where to mount the breather and how to run the line to it. In fact it makes it worse since now you have to mount the big ARB filter instead of a little breather. No way that thing is fitting inside the gas cap!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...ferential-breather-install-trail-edition.html

 

[snif6969]

Thanks for the link !

 

[MossJenks]

Getting them changed at the dealer will run me $400ish.

I've been doing some research around the "correct" fluid for the transfer case and thought of you.

I was seeing quotes of about $120 for all three (front and rear diffs plus transfer case) at a dealership using "generic" 75w90 GL-5 and $200 for all three using Genuine Toyota 75w in the transfer case (the stuff is $55/qt retail!).

You need to use a different dealership if you have one in your area or if not only have them do warranty work. I wouldn't give those thieves a dime without first checking what a job costs somewhere else. Are you a young blonde girl? If so I'd tell them in no uncertain terms that you deserve the same respect as any man! Otherwise I'd put in a complaint to Toyota corporate and the Better Business Bureau. $400 is a bald-faced rip-off attempt.

 

[e60ral]

My rear diff was $90 with the correct toyota oil

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[TheBelafonte]

You need to use a different dealership if you have one in your area or if not only have them do warranty work. I wouldn't give those thieves a dime without first checking what a job costs somewhere else. Are you a young blonde girl? If so I'd tell them in no uncertain terms that you deserve the same respect as any man! Otherwise I'd put in a complaint to Toyota corporate and the Better Business Bureau. $400 is a bald-faced rip-off attempt.

Thanks for following up on this. I am indeed a young blonde girl, I traded in my Barbie Jeep for this 4Runner so I will do just that! Haha!

No but really I appreciate it and will reach out to another dealership this week. The one I bought from has been a pain to deal with since I took the car off the lot.

 

[Runn4est]

My rear diff was $90 with the correct toyota oil

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My dealer wouldn't even sell me any diff fluid because they only stock it in barrels -- but the guys said go get any synth 75-90 gl5 and I'd be good to go.

I've been through several water crossings that would have the rear submerged. I have a toyo 2 way breather in my tail light housing and when I changed the rear diff fluid at 50k, it was still a light amber color with no indication of water at all. It was so clean I almost mistook it for a new bottle before my recycling trip.

 

[sandcrawler]

It is, but I would recommend following one of the DIY threads around here instead of getting the ARB kit. All you need are a couple of cheap Toyota parts (a nipple and a breather), a length of fuel line and a couple of hose clamps. Plus a "T" if you have the e-locker to contend with. With the ARB kit you still need the nipple (and maybe the T?) and it doesn't solve the "hard parts" of the breather install - where to mount the breather and how to run the line to it. In fact it makes it worse since now you have to mount the big ARB filter instead of a little breather. No way that thing is fitting inside the gas cap!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...ferential-breather-install-trail-edition.html

you don't need the nipple or the tee with the ARB kit. it has all the fittings you need and enough tubing to run separate lines for both the rear diff and e-locker to the engine compartment. it's not inexpensive, but it certainly doesn't make this task any more difficult, as you're stating. if you were thinking to mount ARB's 4-way sintered filter inside the gas cap you were missing the point entirely. :bash:

 

[MossJenks]

you don't need the nipple or the tee with the ARB kit. it has all the fittings you need and enough tubing to run separate lines for both the rear diff and e-locker to the engine compartment. it's not inexpensive, but it certainly doesn't make this task any more difficult, as you're stating. if you were thinking to mount ARB's 4-way sintered filter inside the gas cap you were missing the point entirely. :bash:

So it comes with a nipple to fit a Toy diff? You need SOMETHING obviously. You can't just stick a tube over the one-way valve. I don't see anything on the kit contents list that stands out as a Toyota nipple but maybe I'm missing something. I've raised the breathers in every truck I've ever owned but never used the ARB kit so I don't really know. But I do know how to install something like this and in general know how to read a parts list. I just don't see see the reason to pay the money if it's not going to make anything easier or better. The other breathers are up high already so I don't see the point of the 4-way manifold. edit: are the nipples the "4 x 8mm-1/8”BSP push-in fittings" listed?

I guess I was missing the point entirely (though in case we're crossed up here I actually meant the gas door rather than the cap)? Like I said, there's no way it's going to be mounted inside that door. So you put it in the engine bay? That's not an unusual place to put these things but a much longer run.

I don't know, if you say so I won't argue, but running two lines to the engine compartment seems harder than running one. And running one to the engine compartment doesn't sound significantly easier than running one to behind the fuel door. Even if I was running to the ARB I'd still do a tee and one hose up to the engine bay just for simplicity. For reference a T is like a buck and the nipple around $10. I didn't mean to imply that the nipple was a big extra expense. And I didn't mean to imply that the ARB was a lot harder - just no easier and perhaps a little harder.

So I guess I am missing the point entirely since I don't see any point to the ARB kit at all. I guess it's sintered so that's important.....somehow....

My dealer wouldn't even sell me any diff fluid because they only stock it in barrels -- but the guys said go get any synth 75-90 gl5 and I'd be good to go.

Oh man, that's an ENTIRELY different kettle of worms. I do agree that 75w90 won't hurt anything and from what I understand most dealers are doing it that way (that's the $120 estimate I mentioned). But it's not technically "correct" to the specs, especially for the transfer case. I'm going to be using Redline for mine anyway so I've ordered the "correct" 75w85 for the diffs since it's only a couple more bucks a quart. I'll probably end up using that for the transfer case too but I haven't decided for sure. There's no exact substitute for the Toyota 75w on the market that I can find and it's REALLY expensive. The Redline is expensive enough.

I see that being beyond the scope of this thread though. There are endless discussions on the topic both here and on other forums like BobIsTheOilGuy.com.

 

[zcruiser]

I ordered this nipple for the diff...
Genuine Toyota (90404-51319) Union
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2S0TKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wNsHzbMCMX0D7

...and this 2-way breather that I will mount either in the gas cap area or inside the jack area.
Toyota 90930-03136 PLUG, BREATHER
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FSZ9YY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZLsHzbCNRXP0M

I've got some fuel line that should fit between the two.

Got the above pic from this post on TacoWorld...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/my-differential-breather-mod-photos.111954/

 

[sandcrawler]

So it comes with a nipple to fit a Toy diff? You need SOMETHING obviously. You can't just stick tube over the one-way valve. I don't see anything on the kit contents list that stands out as a Toyota nipple but maybe I'm missing something. I've raised the breathers in every truck I've ever owned but never used the ARB kit so I don't really know. But I do know how to install something like this and in general know how to read a parts list. I just don't see see the reason to pay the money if it's not going to make anything easier or better. The other breathers are up high already so I don't see the point of the 4-way manifold.

I guess I was missing the point entirely (though in case we're crossed up here I actually meant the gas door rather than the cap)? Like I said, there's no way it's going to be mounted inside that door. So where do you put it, in the engine bay? That's not an unusual place to put these things but a much longer run.

I don't know, if you say so I won't argue, but running two lines to the engine compartment seems harder than running one. And running one to the engine compartment doesn't sound significantly easier than running one to behind the fuel door. Even if I was running to the ARB I'd still do a tee and one hose up to the engine bay just for simplicity. For reference a T is like a buck and the nipple around $10. I didn't mean to imply that the nipple was a big extra expense. And I didn't mean to imply that the ARB was a lot harder - just no easier and perhaps a little harder.

I guess I am missing the point entirely.

the included fittings will screw right into the diff, and the tubing snaps right in place. i have my ARB manifold/filter mounted on the driver side adjacent to the hood support. super clean.

truly, the ARB kit is just a different way to achieve the same thing. (and yes, at a cost.) i don't think running tubing to the engine compartment adds any appreciable difficulty, but that's a personal thing. i do, however, think the ARB filter in the engine compartment looks a lot cleaner and more OEM than the 2-way poking out inside the fuel door.

all this said, there's certainly nothing wrong with DIY either.

 

[MossJenks]

the included fittings will screw right into the diff, and the tubing snaps right in place.

I edited my post as you were posting this. Those must be the "4 x 8mm-1/8”BSP push-in fittings" listed.

I definitely see the aesthetics angle though. Poking it in behind the gas door is definitely slightly redneck. I kinda like the redneck aesthetic on a truck but obviously not everyone does. Most "OEM" would be the Toyota breather lined up with the other two behind the motor but just eyeballing it without studying it that looks like an enormous PITA (as in maybe impossible without dropping the motor). The Toy breather where you're talking about would be pretty OEM looking but not something worth pointing at and commenting on when you open the hood. And in the overall scheme of things $75 is not an expensive "mod".

For me the ultimate would be to get the breather, nipple and hose out of a junkyard and say "look what I did for 5 bucks, y'all!" (where's the toothless smiley when I need it?).

 

[Macintheus]

Portsmouth Island, NC

I realize this is an older thread, but my question is directly related, so here goes.

I have a 2013 SR5 stock, and I'm considering going to Portsmouth Island, NC where evidently I can expect a road there to be covered in water. In this video a 4Runner can be seen driving down this road through the water.

Based upon what I've read in this thread, would you agree that, unless this runner had a diff breather mod, he might have diff probs from this drive?

 

[Engineer]

I realize this is an older thread, but my question is directly related, so here goes.

I have a 2013 SR5 stock, and I'm considering going to Portsmouth Island, NC where evidently I can expect a road there to be covered in water. In this video a 4Runner can be seen driving down this road through the water.

Based upon what I've read in this thread, would you agree that, unless this runner had a diff breather mod, he might have diff probs from this drive?

He could have problems if the breather was not extended but in my personal opinion this is overblown - the reason its overblown is because its cheap and easy to do so there is no reason not to do it (especially for a planned trip). If that's what you are planning for , no questions extend them.

 

[e60ral]

have you replaced your diff fluid yet? assuming you need to change it anyways, just change your fluid after your trip if you don't want to do breathers

 

[Salvo Jimmy]

That is likely salty water you see in the video, being Portsmouth Island, so get it washed off ASAP after the trip or you will have brake problems at a minimum.

 

[Humble Leader]

question for you guys: a while back I had crossed a really deep water hole. I ended up being off camber and in there for a while (an hr but had shut the vehicle off after maybe less than 5 minutes and winched out). the drivers rear wheel was fully submerged, passenger rear, not submerged at all. I suspect the rear diff pumpkin was fully submerged

I got home and changed the rear diff fluid within days of the water crossing and hardly any driving after. I was expecting dirty fluid. it was clean as in brand new since I had just done rear diff as part of maintenance a few months back. could a tiny bit of water gotten in ? maybe but not enough to visually notice. I have not installed a rear diff breather , it's stock. the water was near freezing (I broke through ice so it was def. cold) and I had driven about 45 minutes prior to at highway speeds, so temp of differential would be high and prime opportunity for water intrusion once it hit cold water. toyota obv. designed these vehicles knowing people would take them off road, and located the other breathers high up, why not the rear diff? how do some people get water in and others don't? better safe than sorry and change fluid or install a breather. but if it was really a risk toyota would put that breather higher up, IMO

 

[fkheath]

question for you guys: a while back I had crossed a really deep water hole. I ended up being off camber and in there for a while (an hr but had shut the vehicle off after maybe less than 5 minutes and winched out). the drivers rear wheel was fully submerged, passenger rear, not submerged at all. I suspect the rear diff pumpkin was fully submerged

I got home and changed the rear diff fluid within days of the water crossing and hardly any driving after. I was expecting dirty fluid. it was clean as in brand new since I had just done rear diff as part of maintenance a few months back. could a tiny bit of water gotten in ? maybe but not enough to visually notice. I have not installed a rear diff breather , it's stock. the water was near freezing (I broke through ice so it was def. cold) and I had driven about 45 minutes prior to at highway speeds, so temp of differential would be high and prime opportunity for water intrusion once it hit cold water. toyota obv. designed these vehicles knowing people would take them off road, and located the other breathers high up, why not the rear diff? how do some people get water in and others don't? better safe than sorry and change fluid or install a breather. but if it was really a risk toyota would put that breather higher up, IMO

The 4Runner is designed to go though over two feet of water without issue. That includes the differentials. I thought all 4Runners had a tube on the differential vents that went above that two feet. Am I wrong?

 

[Saker]

The 4Runner is designed to go though over two feet of water without issue. That includes the differentials. I thought all 4Runners had a tube on the differential vents that went above that two feet. Am I wrong?

The diff only has a vent on top.
That’s why I ran mine up all the way up into the cab.

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