dumbfounded. Crazy unsafe shimmy over 60. not tie rods, lbj, rack,.....help!!!

gonna cut the half shafts in half. leave one end plugged into diff, one end plugged into wheel hub. not connected inbetween. then drive. i thinks i have a clamshell problem.

i will also say this. I will always put my car on four jack stands and remove all the wheels FIRST when i have a shimmy or vibration in the future. it is so much more clear than guessing while going 70
 
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It's not a front diff or cv issue, if it was, you would only notice it in 4wd, I'm guessing its either a rear driveline or bent rear axle the other's have.mentioned. don't waste your time in the front end. Unless you have been driving this thing around in 4wd this whole time.
 
I'd look into a bent or unbalanced rear driveshaft.

It's not a front diff or cv issue, if it was, you would only notice it in 4wd, I'm guessing its either a rear driveline or bent rear axle the other's have.mentioned. don't waste your time in the front end. Unless you have been driving this thing around in 4wd this whole time.

I think these guy are on the money here, there's a post some on the interweb about someone that went through a similar situation and it turned out to be the driveshaft. Wouldn't hurt to pull it and have a it turned to find out.
 
removed driveshaft to front clamshell. cut both the cv joints in half (they were torn boots anyway) used the ends to a.keep bearing supported in wheel. b.plug the clamshell on both ends. so now there is nothing driving the clamshell, the wheels arent attached to the clamshell.

still shakes exactly the same going down the road. tried different wheels and everything.

pulled lower control arms and uppers. ball joints all seem fine, however there is noticable play in the bushings on the lca in the rears from both sides (oddly fronts seemed very solid). like my hand without tools can move them around and shake em back and forth.

the solution?? maybe, maybe not. but they arent good.
will have new bushings pressed into all four. and go from there.

I have to assume that an out of balance driveshaft would have shaken the car quite a bit going 70mph plus sitting still on jackstands. with no wheels and no brake drums on rear there was a very very slight vibration through the cabin of car over 70.


in any event new bushings will likely give me a more factory fresh front end, and the reality is after all the work and money into this pos, I am stuck with it for a while, might as well replace stuff that is obviously bad while its off.
 
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just thinking...would a frame damage cause such shimmy/vibrations?...do u hv a history of the car/any recorded collision?
 
i pointed out in op that the car was damaged when I got it, damage to right front headlight.bumper was tweeaked a little bit, headlight smashed. fender damaged. the hood was intact, and the bumper mounts lined up perfectly when I put new bumper on.
 
Love this thread.

Great to see other OCD folks out there.

I have the same problem between 65-70.

Have done TREs and LBJs. Was planning on doing steering rack bushings.

I plan to look at the brakes and rotors as someone suggested. Guy before me installed cross drilled rotors. I'm not a fan. I installed them on my BMW and was not impressed.

Keep going man!

There is a solution out there!
 
Also have the same issue. I've done:

- LBJs
- OTREs
- ITREs
- steering rack bushings
- steering RACK
- 2 alignments (one of them a road force balance on a GSP-9700)

Being as I've got that *kadunk* when I come to a stop sometimes, I'm thinking the next thing is probably to have a look at the front/rear U-joint to see if it's hosed.
 
I had a similar problem years ago and it was acutally one of my U joints that had cracked and was causing the drive shaft to shake horribly. Hope you figure it out
 
removed driveshaft to front clamshell. cut both the cv joints in half (they were torn boots anyway) used the ends to a.keep bearing supported in wheel. b.plug the clamshell on both ends. so now there is nothing driving the clamshell, the wheels arent attached to the clamshell.

still shakes exactly the same going down the road. tried different wheels and everything.

pulled lower control arms and uppers. ball joints all seem fine, however there is noticable play in the bushings on the lca in the rears from both sides (oddly fronts seemed very solid). like my hand without tools can move them around and shake em back and forth.

the solution?? maybe, maybe not. but they arent good.
will have new bushings pressed into all four. and go from there.

I have to assume that an out of balance driveshaft would have shaken the car quite a bit going 70mph plus sitting still on jackstands. with no wheels and no brake drums on rear there was a very very slight vibration through the cabin of car over 70.


in any event new bushings will likely give me a more factory fresh front end, and the reality is after all the work and money into this pos, I am stuck with it for a while, might as well replace stuff that is obviously bad while its off.

Having a vibration with no wheels and tires on, and the truck not supporting it's own weight would make it somewhere in the driveline. You remove rotating mass by not having wheels and tires on, and they would amplify your vibration. I mean, you dumped all this cash in the truck, what's a few more $$ spent to make sure the driveshaft is balanced?
 
:couch2::pop2::snacker::popcorn:

come on guys, lets not :deadhorse:, its obviously not in the driveline or the rear axle, this has to be either something in the suspesion or front diff, might be a bent frame:noidea:
 
:couch2::pop2::snacker::popcorn:

come on guys, lets not :deadhorse:, its obviously not in the driveline or the rear axle, this has to be either something in the suspesion or front diff, might be a bent frame:noidea:

Not in the front suspension so far as I know; 2 shops have checked it out and pronounced it good to go. Front differential as well.

Besides, in my case, there DOES appear to be something up with the U-joint as I get that telltale *clunk* when coming to a stop sometimes.
 
I had the same issue.

Turned out that my rotor was slightly warped. Pad were wearing normally so i only noticed once i fully removed the rotor. With new rotors the problem is gone... :wave:
 
Besides, in my case, there DOES appear to be something up with the U-joint as I get that telltale *clunk* when coming to a stop sometimes.

A clunk from the rear driveshaft would make me suspect an excessively worn, or insufficiently lubed slip-joint. From front-to-rear you have three zerk fittings in the double cardan joint, then one for the slip-joint, then finally the rear u-joint. Five zerk fittings total, in the rear driveshaft.
 

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