Easy Peasy transmission fluid exchange V6

[sqrt(2)^4Runner]

This is a cool idea. I didn't know this could be so simple.

 

[pixologics]

If you don't want to get under the truck to do this, read on!
If you do want to get under the truck with a cheap pump killing yourself, stop reading! JK

sold my 2004 v8, did this exact thing through the trans cooler and drove 100k miles on valoline maxlife full synthetic. when the truck sold, there was no leaks and the transmission shifted smooth with no issues.

Just got a 2008 garage kept v6 sport and the truck had a bad shudder at 40mph and anything up hill at low rpms. downshifts were rough, hard hitting. overall it drove like shit. over 150k miles with the stock fluid!

There are plenty of posts out there but so many argued the type of fluid and method. I am not here to do that, just sharing what I did.

1.5 hours total time. I did an oil change, plugs, and air filter while it siphoned, also watched a movie... it was a good time.

Every issue disappeared INSTANTLY. shifts like a brand new truck.

original oil was nasty as hell. I think the truck was used for some towing.

you need some clear hose
you need a metal fitment to go in the radiator cooler hose, i used a male and female air tool nipple. worked great

the science: the return line goes back to the transmission towards the pan, the fluid out of the tranny comes from the TC side, which makes sense because it needs to be cooled first.
Laying under the truck to pump fluid in with a small pump didn't make sense because the return line goes right to there anyway.

there are methods of heating the tranny to see the level is correct but its a sealed tranny, if it didnt leak, and your measurement is exact, i doubt it would be an issue. It was proven for 100k miles with my own truck.

1. locate the top cooler line going into the radiator. that is all you have to disconnect in the truck. you do not need to go under the truck.
   
2. you need (2) gallon jugs, both need lines that show exactly 3 quarts.
   
3. connect a clear hose to the tranny hose that you disconnected, that goes to one jug.
   
4. connect another clear hose to the nipple you disconnected the tranny hose from that is on the radiator. its the TOP NIPPLE, NOT THE BOTTOM
   
5. add the clear hose and attach it to a funnel, get it high and hang the funnel.
   
6. start the truck out the driver window, start the truck, watch the jug fill,
   
7. TURN OFF TRUCK right at the third line.
   
8. take jug number 2 and fill clean trans fluid up to the third line
   
9. start pouring into the funnel.
   
10. second time, only do 2 quarts at a time. second line. I did 12 quarts total, fluid was looking good by then. Black to Red with a little black in it.
    
11. the siphon takes awhile, but be patient its going to go in no matter what.
    
12. Thats it! be patient, be EXACT, and forget about the other stuff. Really no need. its sealed. just exchange and be AMAZED.

How simple is that? one connection, 1.5 hours, and you just did a full out exchange! Good luck.




arty:

[MENTION=64338]Streetfighter[/MENTION] - Will this process apply to non-sealed transmission that came in early 2003-04 V6 RWD. Mine has an inlet in engine bay to check the trans. fluid level/quantity. Or could it be more simple for my case?

 

[vastano]

[MENTION=64338]Streetfighter[/MENTION] - Will this process apply to non-sealed transmission that came in early 2003-04 V6 RWD. Mine has an inlet in engine bay to check the trans. fluid level/quantity. Or could it be more simple for my case?

I was wondering the same thing...I feel like it would since the dipstick tube is above the transmission.

 

[waypoint]

[MENTION=64338]Streetfighter[/MENTION] - Will this process apply to non-sealed transmission that came in early 2003-04 V6 RWD. Mine has an inlet in engine bay to check the trans. fluid level/quantity. Or could it be more simple for my case?

Yes, the dipstick tube is the right way to refill (and check fluid level at operating temp with vehicle running, parked on level surface). Those of us with "sealed" transmissions can only envy you.

 

[AuSeeker]

[MENTION=64338]Streetfighter[/MENTION] - Will this process apply to non-sealed transmission that came in early 2003-04 V6 RWD. Mine has an inlet in engine bay to check the trans. fluid level/quantity. Or could it be more simple for my case?

I was wondering the same thing...I feel like it would since the dipstick tube is above the transmission.

Ya'll could do the same as Streetfighter did even though ya'll have the dipstick, doing it his way will insure you get all the old fluid out, simply draining it out of the pan will not remove all the old fluid only 1/4 to 1/3 if you're lucky.

That being said checking the fluid level once you get most of the fluid exchanged will be much easier for ya'll since you can check the level with the dipstick, so I would avoid overfilling by a quart or half quart and just add more via the dipstick tube to get the level correct, otherwise you will have to pull the drain plug to drain any excess fluid and that could get a bit messy and you would be just guessing before trying to put the plug back in before you drain too much out and you will have fluid running down your hand and arm while putting the plug back in.

 

[montijo505]

Anyone ever get a clear answer on what size hose? I’m thinking maybe 3/8 but unsure. Thanks.

 

[Mantilgh]

Before you do this check, and buy if needed, the trans oil cooler hard lines that run along the radiator support.

I live where they salt heavily in the winter and mine are quite rusted and on the verge of splitting.

Rockauto has them for around $30




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[waypoint]

Anyone ever get a clear answer on what size hose? I’m thinking maybe 3/8 but unsure. Thanks.

3/8" inside diameter. Lowe's has this in clear tubing for cheap, really helps watch the discharge so you can tell quickly when the old fluid is gone and clean fluid is pumping out.

 

[00GTvert]

that's what i used

 

[vastano]

Before you do this check, and buy if needed, the trans oil cooler hard lines that run along the radiator support.

I live where they salt heavily in the winter and mine are quite rusted and on the verge of splitting.

Rockauto has them for around $30




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I second this, mine were so rusty they just started leaking this week. I went with the Dorman, didnt think Rockauto would have them. Oh well!

 

[montijo505]

Finally got around to this, I’ve had the WS in the garage for a week or two. Super easy.

This is what came out the first 3 quart run.... not terrible surprisingly at 145k


Then the second 3 quart run


Then the first two quart run, looking much better


And the second 2 quart run. At this point I figured the last 2 quarts to make 12 were unnecessary, but I was in it so I figured why not.


The last bit came out looking like what I was putting in, which is awesome.

Only recommendation is make sure you get the right size fitting for the hose connection. I got a 1/4 inch inner diameter brass fitting and it worked, but barely. I couldn’t find a fitting that was 3/8 outer diameter at Home Depot, they must have been out. I got a few drips at the connection but nothing a towel didn’t soak up.


Can’t stress how easy this was, took less than 2 hours total. Thanks OP!


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[MT Runner]

I’m planning on doing this one of these weekends this fall.

I think I know the answer to this, but want to see what others think.

I added an auxiliary trans cooler to mine. So the tubing currently goes:
-Trans to top inlet on radiator
-Bottom outlet of radiator to one side of the trans cooler
- other side of the trans cooler back to the return line that normally would be hooked up to the bottom outlet on the radiator.

So, what I’m thinking is that I will have to disconnect in two spots; the top inlet of the radiator for the old fluid, and then the tube that used to be on the bottom outlet of the radiator. This way I’ll basically be bypassing the internal trans cooler that’s in the radiator and my aux trans cooler.

The reason I think I’ll have to do this, is in the way the OP did it, you’re relying on gravity to refill the trans on the return line.
On my setup, that return line will be leading to the aux trans cooler, which is a decent amount more tubing and mounted in the middle of the radiator, so gravity will be working against me to get that new fluid into the aux trans cooler and through, and back to the actual trans. I’m thinking the best bet will be to just bypass the radiator and trans cooler altogether and disconnect in two spots.

Am I overthinking this, or what do others think?

 

[montijo505]

I’m planning on doing this one of these weekends this fall.



I think I know the answer to this, but want to see what others think.



I added an auxiliary trans cooler to mine. So the tubing currently goes:

-Trans to top inlet on radiator

-Bottom outlet of radiator to one side of the trans cooler

- other side of the trans cooler back to the return line that normally would be hooked up to the bottom outlet on the radiator.



So, what I’m thinking is that I will have to disconnect in two spots; the top inlet of the radiator for the old fluid, and then the tube that used to be on the bottom outlet of the radiator. This way I’ll basically be bypassing the internal trans cooler that’s in the radiator and my aux trans cooler.



The reason I think I’ll have to do this, is in the way the OP did it, you’re relying on gravity to refill the trans on the return line.

On my setup, that return line will be leading to the aux trans cooler, which is a decent amount more tubing and mounted in the middle of the radiator, so gravity will be working against me to get that new fluid into the aux trans cooler and through, and back to the actual trans. I’m thinking the best bet will be to just bypass the radiator and trans cooler altogether and disconnect in two spots.



Am I overthinking this, or what do others think?

This makes perfect sense to me, no reason this shouldn’t work.


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[gaswede]

I preformed this exchange over the weekend. WOW what a crazy difference a fluid change makes in every day drive-ability. I truly couldn't believe it.

My trans fluid pumped out black as night (168k mi) and took about 8 out of 12 qts before i saw any change in color. by the time i got 12 qts in, the color was a deep red and satisfactory. probably could have taken another 2-3 qts to clear up even more but i was already $90 in at this point. im happy with the results.

my process took 3.5 hrs total. I equate the longer time frame to the fact that the orifice on my 'fill funnel' was probably smaller than others'.

for those that have not attempted this, do it!
also, as stated previously, patience is critical! the new fluid is not sucked in but rather gravity fed so...its slow!
I used Maxlife as other did. the bottle now states WS compatible on the label.

 

[gaswede]

Here are a few pic of what I had to work with.
To get my marks on the jugs, I started by pouring in 2 qts from the maxlife to the first jug, marked it. Then poured from the first jug to the second jug and marked it.

 

[smurph]

After looking at countless ways to do this procedure, I went with the one Streetfighter wrote up.

I had been experiencing shudder when going up hill or at certain speeds. It wasn’t all the time but often enough to make me wonder if my transmission or torque converter was failing.

I used 3/8” ID tubing and 1/4” air fittings to attach to the factory hose.
Valvoline Max from Walmart as I couldn’t find it anywhere else. (I hate Walmart!)

I replaced about 13 liters of fluid and it shifts so smoothly now and no shudder. Mileage is also better.

2007 4Runner, 4.0L - 260,000 kms.

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[firebirdguy]

i just did this fluid exchange on my 08 v6 a couple weeks ago, very easy to do & well worth it. at 145k the original WS fluid was very dark but the trans shifted ok with no shudder issues. after putting in 12qts of maxlife it shifts noticeably better & has less drag or when letting off the gas & coasting, seems to downshift on its own much smoother.

in the recent posts here of others doing it, im confused on why people are running a hose to the radiator connection on the driver side to refill... the easier/faster way is to run the hose on the pass side directly into the fill hole on the side of the trans & use a medium to large size funnel, mine took maybe 2 minutes to fill 2-3 qts that way.

all you need to do is disconnect the bottom radiator trans hose & connect the clear tubing to the radiator outlet fitting then into a jug to catch the fluid being pumped out. im seeing people use an adapter in the hose then connecting a hose to that. maybe thats different for a v8 with a aux trans cooler, but for the v6's its a direct connection off the lower rad fitting to drain, then run the funnel & hose into the fill hole on the trans to refill.

well worth the change however you do it. & be sure to follow the fluid check procedure, its very easy to use the trans fluid check feature on the gauge.

 

[firebirdguy]

I used Maxlife as other did. the bottle now states WS compatible on the label.

maxlife has stated WS compatible for almost 10 years now.

 

[hinmo24t]

i wish i could pull the trigger on trying this, seems awesome, i just scheduled a $97 fluid exhange for tranny at local toyota. did all my diffs and t case and motor oil on my own though. kudos to those of you who did this and epic original post by this guy.

 

[firebirdguy]

i wish i could pull the trigger on trying this, seems awesome, i just scheduled a $97 fluid exhange for tranny at local toyota. did all my diffs and t case and motor oil on my own though. kudos to those of you who did this and epic original post by this guy.

its very easy to do it yourself, especially with all the write ups here & vids on youtube.

also, check into the details of that $97 dealer fluid exchange, a full exchange usually runs almost double that price at the dealer. think they might just be doing a drain & fill for $97... & thats only ~3qts. 3qts for $97 is a SCAM! you can do a drain & fill in about 15 minutes & maybe $25-30 in WS fluid.

also do some research for yourself to decide if you want to use WS again... its been proven that WS is a non synthetic fluid & doesnt do too well with heat. maxlife & others are full synthetic & as good or better than WS. yes there are still the alarmists that think you NEED to use WS or your trans will explode... but thats not the case at all. some even report shudder issues went away with full maxlife exchanges.