ECGS Clamshell CV Axle Bushing Install

[Devbot]

I still have the tool in question. Id be willing to give it to you you'd just have to pay for the shipping (couple bucks probably). Or i could make a little side trip and drop it off to you the next time i drive up to Bellingham. If you end up needed it.

That's very kind, i appreciate it, I'll have to wait and see if it's needed and get back to you
You make the trip up to BHam from Portland? Hot damn that's quite the haul. I go up every month or so to see some friends and that hour+ drive is more than enough for me

 

[T4topher]

Does anybody here happen to have video of the roaring/vibration? I believe I might have it to a slight degree but not quite sure

Get under your truck and try to wiggle the driver side cv where it goes into the diff. IMO that’s a pretty clear indicator if it has a decent amount of play. Wiggle the passenger side cv where it connects to the diff for comparison.

 

[JCruz]

Im fairly sure I have this issue.

At 35ish MPH I get a loud noise from the front end and a vibration in the steering wheel. When I put it in 4wd it stops, then returns slowly when I put it back in 2wd.

I got under the truck and the CV axle is solid at the tire, loose enough to clunk at the diff on the drivers side, pass side is solid on both ends.

 

[Devbot]

I still have the tool in question. Id be willing to give it to you you'd just have to pay for the shipping (couple bucks probably). Or i could make a little side trip and drop it off to you the next time i drive up to Bellingham. If you end up needed it.

Thanks for the offer but I'm fairly positive it was my driveline. Just replaced it today with a much better, slightly longer one brand new from Drivelines NW. So far it rides like glass again. Like the poster above my vibration started like a switch at 35mph but it wasn't affected by 4WD whatsoever, and my CVs had even amounts of play - or lack thereof, at lest - thanks for the advice guys, that was a great way to check, saved me doing an unnecessary job :thumb:

 

[JCruz]

For petes sake.


ECGS shipped me the puller tool, the seal, but forgot the bushing itself!


:frusty:

Guess i'm not doing this work over this weekend.

 

[jross20]

Hey guys

Is this worth doing with only like a 1-1.5" lift?

 

[T4topher]

Hey guys

Is this worth doing with only like a 1-1.5" lift?

Only worth doing if you have the problem, wiggle your cv shafts where they connect into the front differential. If the driver side has a considerable amount of more play than the passenger side then it’s potentially worth doing.

 

[jross20]

Only worth doing if you have the problem, wiggle your cv shafts where they connect into the front differential. If the driver side has a considerable amount of more play than the passenger side then it’s potentially worth doing.

Are we talking about axial play or longitudinal play?

(Left to right wiggle or in and out?

 

[T4topher]

Are we talking about axial play or longitudinal play?

(Left to right wiggle or in and out?

Up/down or left/right. Not in/out. It’s pretty obvious once you get your hands on your cv’s. My driver side had a significant amount of play compared to my passenger side. I’m pretty sure we demonstrated wiggling the cv’s in the video.

edit: it’s around 8 minutes into the video we do the demonstration of wiggling the cv.

 

[jross20]

Up/down or left/right. Not in/out. It’s pretty obvious once you get your hands on your cv’s. My driver side had a significant amount of play compared to my passenger side. I’m pretty sure we demonstrated wiggling the cv’s in the video.

edit: it’s around 8 minutes into the video we do the demonstration of wiggling the cv.

Okay cool just wanted to make sure I knew what I was looking for. Does it need to be jacked up or have the weight off the wheels? Or does that not matter?

 

[T4topher]

Okay cool just wanted to make sure I knew what I was looking for. Does it need to be jacked up or have the weight off the wheels? Or does that not matter?

Doesn’t matter

 

[mtbtim]

Okay cool just wanted to make sure I knew what I was looking for. Does it need to be jacked up or have the weight off the wheels? Or does that not matter?

If you watch the beginning parts of the video, you will see the kind of gross play you'll be looking for. Start watching the video at play time 8:03.

 

[jross20]

If you watch the beginning parts of the video, you will see the kind of gross play you'll be looking for. Start watching the video at play time 8:03.

Thanks timmy, I'm going to get under their this weekend for some frame painting so I'll check it then.

 

[JCruz]

I did my ECGS bushing this weekend.

When I pulled the needle bearing it seems the needles sat too far into the bearing and the bit that holds them in place was what the cv was riding on.

Also, in the process of pulling out the CV Axle I pulled the boot off one of the ends

So I did a new CV axle too.


The roar I had at 35ish (that went away when I put it in 4wd) seems to be gone. The truck is buttery smooth at any speed.

Lets see if it stays that way!

:bluejump:

 

[EvergreenPearl]

I still have the tool in question. Id be willing to give it to you you'd just have to pay for the shipping (couple bucks probably). Or i could make a little side trip and drop it off to you the next time i drive up to Bellingham. If you end up needed it.

Dom8706 if you still have that tool I would love to borrow it, or hang onto it until I can pass it on to another member. Will cover shipping for sure.

Getting some subtle vibes around 55-65mph after a 2 1/2 inch lift. May not be related to this, but there is PLENTY of play in that drivers side CV for me.

 

[Dom8706]

Dom8706 if you still have that tool I would love to borrow it, or hang onto it until I can pass it on to another member. Will cover shipping for sure.

Getting some subtle vibes around 55-65mph after a 2 1/2 inch lift. May not be related to this, but there is PLENTY of play in that drivers side CV for me.

Yeah i still have it. If you want to message me the address ill send it up to you in the next couple of days. If you wanted to hold onto it until someone else is in need of it that would be great.

Did you get an alignment after installing the lift? Would recommended it if you didnt. I think most people usually do.

 

[EvergreenPearl]

Cool... Will PM now.

Yes, did the alignment. Got the lifetime alignment at Firestone so I can take it back after doing ball joints and rebooting CVs. I think you're right on to suggest that. It feels like my KO2s are just riding a little on edge and you can see the camber even after alignment. Not convinced they did a great job on the first try.

 

[Devbot]

Maybe?

Well I think I've developed the roar after all. Does this sound familiar to anybody? Really hoping it's the CVs and not my new driveline acting up.
I believe 4WD helps it somewhat, but certainly doesn't stop it. The driver's side CV has very slight extra play over the passenger side, and has play in all directions;

-audibly starts around 30mph, can start feeling it around 45mph (have noticed it through 55-60mph freeway speeds, not sure if cuts out at higher speeds like 70-80mph). Quiet as a mouse at 25 and below.
-similarly starts around 1500-2000rpm at these speeds
-only with throttle, stops immediately after letting off the gas
-gets worse on hills
-oscillating sound/feel? Like a "wwwommm wwwommm wwwommm"
-starts somewhat abruptly
-vibrates to the point of blurring the mirror

Just this very afternoon, I think I noticed the famous CV clack happen for a split second when making a sharp right turn, so the chances of them being the culprit seems high to me (unless I'm hearing things) but I'd like to know what you guys think - bad axles, bad needle bearing, or bad driveline?
I would replace the needle bearing with the CVs, while I'm at it

It feels like my KO2s are just riding a little on edge and you can see the camber even after alignment. Not convinced they did a great job on the first try.

As a neighbor just down the road (born in Overlake actually), I can attest nobody around here gives a rats ass with alignment. The rule seems to be "if it's straight, it's good."
I've had to go back for corrections twice now, this year alone. First they gave one of my wheels a positive camber which looked goofy as hell and took corners equally bad. Called them to ask only a couple hours later when I noticed, and they were all shrugs and shoulders, almost sounding like the barely remembered me. Well I figured it was cause of old ball joints so I replaced them and took it back. Then they set my caster way unevenly so I would rub terribly on one side when turning or with bumps. This was from a local Purcell Tire location, formerly a Valvoline shop staffed by the same technicians, nonetheless.

 

[EvergreenPearl]

Dom8706, I sent you a message with mailing info for that tool. Not sure if you got it. I'm struggling with the PM function on here. Let me know if not.

All, FWIW the vibration I'm getting is very subtle and only there around 55-65mph. Replacing CV's (torn boots), front dif seals (leaking), and ball joints (preventative) this weekend. That may do the trick. It'll be followed by a tire rotation and alignment next week. That may do the trick.

My gut feel is that the vibration is just torn old CV boots flopping around at that speed.

I'll order the ECGS bushing now because, vibrating or not, I'm getting a TON of play in the drivers side CV and don't like the feel of that for longevity.

 

[EvergreenPearl]

If anybody needs to use the needle bearing removal tool, I'll have one available in a couple weeks once I get the bushing in. Thanks Dom8706 for the tool.

None of this so far has taken care of the subtle vibration I'm getting post-lift: CV's, alignment, wheel balance, tire rotation, OEM ball joints. It was all either free or needed anyway, so no stress. I'll do the bushing because I am getting a ton of play in the inner driver's side CV joint, but my hunch is that I've got a driveshaft or U-joint issue causing the vibration between 55-65mph.