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I think I'm one of the few people here that put the bars on top of the roof rack and not bottom. I also had to put a light bar cover on mine because of NJ laws.. pfft
I think I'm one of the few people here that put the bars on top of the roof rack and not bottom. I also had to put a light bar cover on mine because of NJ laws.. pfft.
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I grabbed some from the hardware store, I believe it was 3/4" wide by 1/8" thick.
wish i would of jus done that. hopefully the dent shop can get them all out
Confirmed that I used the same dimension flat bar as well. Attaching a pic of the other parts I used for mounting the bracket.
My comment above was aimed at the top (visible) bolts on the mounting bracket. If you are talking about the bolts that fasten the mounting bracket to the roof of your vehicle I can tell you that the 2" Bolts from my OEM rack were too long. NOTE that my 2016 TE OEM rack bolts are M8 x 1.25 bolts. Make sure you check your bolt packs for 8 smaller dia bolts as mine did not have any. [MENTION=109477]Rorck[/MENTION] said his bolt pack had some different bolts that worked well so he did not have to use the OEM roof rack bolts like I'm having to.
Here's what I had to do to get the OEM roof rack bolts (or any bolts) to work with the rear mounting brackets:
Looks like they cut all the holes in the brackets first then bend them and that made a problem with mine. There's no meat for a bolt head or washer to grab on the backside:
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I made a top piece out of aluminum from lowes and this worked well. Cut it a little longer than the bracket so that it bridges the gap between the two roof weather stripping:
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Post #193 shows how you can spread the load of the bolt on the mounting bracket, if you felt like it needed better contact.
Thanks for that write up. Very good points made as well.
I am curious what the marine silicone was for. Do you mind explaining?
6th batch almost complete!