Engine cranks 3 times too long

The Igniter is on the passenger side fender well between the air filter box and the cruise control servo.


I don't know how to test, but the easiest way would be to swap it with some one else who has a 4runner and see if the issue goes away.
 
The cam position sensor did NOT fix it.

The next thought is a bad gas cap. Maybe the vent is plugged and not allowing the tank to breath properly. So the cap is just open a little.

I'm out of town and not driving it but my wife is. She has taken some short trips (that always cause the issue) and doesn't seem to have the issue. Only time will tell.

Gerdo, I was having the same problem (still am) I even asked that same question about the cap since it seemed as though my truck started quicker after filling up with gas and I relieved the pressure in the tank. Thought the cap was clogged up. I haven't replaced it yet but I tried starting it with the cap off for about a week and it seemed to help but not cure the problem.
 
tried a known good igniter today...no change. Guess we can scratch that off the list

Interesting.

My truck has the same issue. It has a brand new battery also. To the best that i have been able to determine, during the the first 3 seconds of cranking, there is no spark. Why is there no spark, its either the ecm or igniter and you have ruled out igniter.

My other concern was that my truck has the transponder in the key and that it was taking a few seconds to read that info before letting the engine fire up but this issue is happening with those who don't have an immobilizer too.

Puzzling. :redbrick:
 
Interesting.

My truck has the same issue. It has a brand new battery also. To the best that i have been able to determine, during the the first 3 seconds of cranking, there is no spark. Why is there no spark, its either the ecm or igniter and you have ruled out igniter.

My other concern was that my truck has the transponder in the key and that it was taking a few seconds to read that info before letting the engine fire up but this issue is happening with those who don't have an immobilizer too.

Puzzling. :redbrick:


I wondered about the transponder too....because I have no original keys for my truck. But if it was that, then the key simply wouldn't work.

Also, it always always always directly related to how long the truck is off, after being driven. I'm beginning to think it's the ECM. Maybe I can get my dealer to give me the latest ECM update for free, see if it changes anything. (I know the service writers, and they are pretty good guys)
 
Mine will start right up after its been warmed up. Cold starts take quite a while longer. I can tell the starter is turning the motor over without a hassle, its just not firing.

Singtoe, you think its a non-spark issue rather than an improper A/F mixture? I think you are probably right..
 
I don't know how this was missed, but it really does sound like a classic case of a failing fuel pressure regulator.
 
I don't know how this was missed, but it really does sound like a classic case of a failing fuel pressure regulator.

I haven't checked my fuel pressure yet.
Strange that it'll start up instantly when cold for a day, weeks, or a month.
 
Here is what a friend of mine sent me to check too.
------------------------
My money is on the Crank Position Sensor (Crank Angle Sensor). Check the hot temps on the CPS before buying the cam sensor.


The cam position sensor did NOT fix it.

The next thought is a bad gas cap. Maybe the vent is plugged and not allowing the tank to breath properly. So the cap is just open a little.

I'm out of town and not driving it but my wife is. She has taken some short trips (that always cause the issue) and doesn't seem to have the issue. Only time will tell.

So Gerdo, did you replace the cam or crank sensor?
 
I don't know how this was missed, but it really does sound like a classic case of a failing fuel pressure regulator.
Fuel preasure is hard to accurately test on the 4runner as there is no port to hook up to.


The easiest way to test (ball park) is to crack the fuel rail open. If gas sprays out everywhere then the fuel system is tight.

If the gas dribbles out of the fuel rail, then you have a problem with a bad fuel injector, pressure regulator or check valve.



If the pressure regulator was bad, you would get a check engine light. You would also have a loss of power as the fuel ratios aren't correct.
 
i think you have a bad fuel pump my friend, both an audi and a mercedes i had had issues that sound very similar to this, and both left me stranded on the side of the road when they failed, it was a fuel pump for both of them, i would guess that is what your dealing with here, a bad fuel pump
 
Only the Cam sensor...so far.

I'm still thinking it's the crank sensor. I've read a post or two before on another forum I think about someone not being able to start their runner at all after shutting it off when it's warmed up. They had to wait 15-30 minutes before it would fire up.

Your's sounds similar just not as bad.
 
Fuel preasure is hard to accurately test on the 4runner as there is no port to hook up to.


The easiest way to test (ball park) is to crack the fuel rail open. If gas sprays out everywhere then the fuel system is tight.

If the gas dribbles out of the fuel rail, then you have a problem with a bad fuel injector, pressure regulator or check valve.



If the pressure regulator was bad, you would get a check engine light. You would also have a loss of power as the fuel ratios aren't correct.

So you're saying that it's not possible that the fuel pressure regulator cannot fail closed, thereby raising fuel pressure and causing the fuel pump check valve to get stuck closed by the high pressure?

This is relatively common scenario on "another" legendary Toyota engine named the 3FE.

Usuallly about 5-7 minutes of cranking with a few breaks to let the starter cool down will allow the vehicle to start again. It is not an issue when the motor is cold, or when a warm motor is restarted very quickly after being shutdown. If you wait too long then the fuel pressure builds up so the pump cannot overcome the the pressure in the system. The only fix is to depressurize the system which can be accomplished out on the road by cranking the motor until the pressure decreases and the check valve will open.

Your thoughts...
 
REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP!

I had this issue and went through all this trouble already. It IS your fuel pump. The 3.4's fuel system does NOT prime. The only time the fuel pump gets power is when cranking and once it's running. 100% gauranteed!

I replaced mine about a year ago (when I first got the truck) and havn't had any issues since. Buy Airtex Electric Fuel Pump E8213 at Advance Auto Parts

Before I did the pump I broke down and cleaned the throttle body, threw in a new fuel filter, Optima Yellow top, plugs, wires.... all needed to be done regaurdless of the starting issue with 330K miles.

Good luck
 
REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP!

I had this issue and went through all this trouble already. It IS your fuel pump. The 3.4's fuel system does NOT prime. The only time the fuel pump gets power is when cranking and once it's running. 100% gauranteed!

I replaced mine about a year ago (when I first got the truck) and havn't had any issues since. Buy Airtex Electric Fuel Pump E8213 at Advance Auto Parts

Before I did the pump I broke down and cleaned the throttle body, threw in a new fuel filter, Optima Yellow top, plugs, wires.... all needed to be done regaurdless of the starting issue with 330K miles.

Good luck
Even though it starts fine after sitting till it's cool and also sitting a day, week or month?

Is that pump a direct replacement?

It's definitely a heat issue.
 
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am waiting for gerdo's update...my issues are almost a mirror-image of his...i have done all of the replacements he did except the CPS... if he replaces the fuel pump and it works, i am definitely replacing mine...

am tired in trying to get a fix for this. :(
 

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