Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil

[Ol'Blue]

I am having a tow truck tow it to a mechanic to diagnose the problem(s) with the vehicle tonight when I get off work. I expect the mechanic to diagnose the problem and for him to say (like everyone on this forum) that the engine is completely toast. Hopefully he can tell me specifically what broke inside the engine. When I get that information I will post and maybe either get to fixing the engine after pulling it out of my truck or look for advice on seeking a new (used) motor. I love this truck and maybe I can even give her an upgrade.

:ranger:

The quote I put up there is going to be what you are looking at. The shop rate will very a little bit but that install time is right out of Alldata. Everything else you will need to have done at the same time as you stuff a good used engine in it.

Compare and shop around bud and see what they tell you. If it is going to be very cheap I would run. This is not a Chevy 350 to put in a truck. It doesn't take a rocket scientist but I would not take it to some fly by night shop either.

Keep us posted man when you find the engine for the swap.

Blue

 

[animator]

I think you're missing the point. Compression is irrelevant at this point, you've got rod knock. A head gasket will not help. Your motor is not pining for the fjords. It is no more. It has ceased to be. It's off the twig, it has kicked the bucket, it has run down the curtain and joined the choir invisible. It is an ex-motor.

Perhaps he could fix it with a herring?



But look on the bright side, the next time you start the engine and rev it up, it may just throw a rod. Then you won't have to do any more diagnostics, because a head gaskets and cylinder compression will be the least of your worries...

 

[mohjo712000]

I have a question I believe belongs in this thread. If you were to replace a motor in your runner , or rebuild, which would it be? Also, would say a gen 4 motor slide into a gen 3?

 

[Arnezie]

I have a question I believe belongs in this thread. If you were to replace a motor in your runner , or rebuild, which would it be? Also, would say a gen 4 motor slide into a gen 3?

Welcome Michigander, No it wouldn't just slide in a 3rd gen , you can make anything work but it would be much more time and cost effective to find a good 3rd gen. :toilet3:

 

[brian4t]

Sorry for your troubles (OP) but this is bad news bear as you've already heard. Seek out a good used motor and go from there. The gravity of this post reminds me a thread on a different forum where the member poured brake fluid into their transmission fill, or maybe it was ATF into their oil fill. Either way it was BAD.

 

[amalik]

Wait so... you can't drive without oil?

What a gimmick. They warned me against Toyota's.

 

[Norwester]

Wait so... you can't drive without oil?

What a gimmick. They warned me against Toyota's.

You can but it generally turns out to be a short trip.

 

[amalik]

Sorry for your troubles (OP) but this is bad news bear as you've already heard. Seek out a good used motor and go from there. The gravity of this post reminds me a thread on a different forum where the member poured brake fluid into their transmission fill, or maybe it was ATF into their oil fill. Either way it was BAD.

rofl. might as well put dishwashing fluid in the radiator while at it.

 

[TFRnoob]

Same thing happend to my BMW... it was mostly the connecting rod bearings and a little extra wear on the main bearings.

I did the work for about $300, big job.

Can you pop in conrod bearings just by cracking the oil pan like a BMW?

So I have had the truck in the driveway collecting bird turd for a while and as soon as I get the nerve to start the engine replacement I get a call from my landlord requesting that I get the car working or have it towed away (a reasonable request I guess).

Anyway, I have the battery out, oil drained, coolant drained, and underpinnings removed in preparation for removing the engine. However, due to the lack of time I face now I am beginning to think this idea of changing the rod and main bearings in situ might be my only option. I am trying to find out the details on how to proceed with the bearing change by removing the oil pan.

What things should I consider before moving forward? Has anyone done this before? If not, perhaps I can document this potentially disastrous journey in a separate thread.

 

[TFRnoob]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHeO1h3U4GE

I found a video that has some good information on bearing installation.

 

[Scramble]

Thanks for the help everyone! Okay, so here are a few symptoms I found upon a more careful inspection that may help narrow the focus of the possible issues at hand. I suspect a cracked head or head gasket because there seems to be coolant towards the front end of the engine bay.

New symptoms are as follows:

coolant leaking from unknown source towards the front end of the engine bay.

when going in reverse, there is a pulsing.

The higher the RPMs, the louder the noise is.

No significant noise when in neutral.

Noise (clacking) occurs when turning on the car and when I am driving especially over 25mph.

Anyway, I hope this helps a little bit. I will be checking the compression later as well as checking for metal shavings in my oil later tonight. Any comments/ suggestions?

Thanks again all!

-Rich

Jap motors (basically all new motors) cant handle overheating the way old American motor's could. Your head gasket is toast as well as the bottom of the motor. If the block isn't cracked you could do a rebuild but a used low mileage engine is probably the way to go. Sorry this happened.

 

[Scramble]

So I have had the truck in the driveway collecting bird turd for a while and as soon as I get the nerve to start the engine replacement I get a call from my landlord requesting that I get the car working or have it towed away (a reasonable request I guess).

Anyway, I have the battery out, oil drained, coolant drained, and underpinnings removed in preparation for removing the engine. However, due to the lack of time I face now I am beginning to think this idea of changing the rod and main bearings in situ might be my only option. I am trying to find out the details on how to proceed with the bearing change by removing the oil pan.

What things should I consider before moving forward? Has anyone done this before? If not, perhaps I can document this potentially disastrous journey in a separate thread.

It's never going to run right. The whole bottom end needs to be rebuild by a professional. Are you sure the block isn't cracked? Just pay someone to install a used motor.

 

[KidVermicious]

You can rebuild the motor without pulling it, but it won't save you any effort - it'll probably be harder in the long run, and you'll get frustrated and try to hurry, and you'll end up doing a shit job and have to redo it in three months anyway. I'd yank it.

If you're going to rebuild it yourself and need to buy time, yank it out of there and throw in a junkyard motor. Or buy a JDM block. Or bite the bullet and have it towed to a professional. My choice would be to find a cheap used motor, throw it in, then take my time rebuilding the original one.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

You can rebuild the motor without pulling it, but it won't save you any effort - it'll probably be harder in the long run, and you'll get frustrated and try to hurry, and you'll end up doing a shit job and have to redo it in three months anyway. I'd yank it.

^^This^^

Don't waste your time trying to band-aid it. Start tearing your engine out now while you look for a replacement one.

Or just get a whole other T4R. If the body/frame of yours is in good shape, you can still fetch some decent coin for it from a buyer up North

 

[mxer]

All your oil drained in 2 weeks??

 

[TFRnoob]

^^This^^

Don't waste your time trying to band-aid it. Start tearing your engine out now while you look for a replacement one.

Or just get a whole other T4R. If the body/frame of yours is in good shape, you can still fetch some decent coin for it from a buyer up North

I like the idea of selling the body/frame. It really might be my only option at this point :/ How would you recommend going about this. I doubt throwing it on Craigslist around here would do me much good.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[TFRnoob]

All your oil drained in 2 weeks??

HAHAHA yes, it was a tough job. :banana: No it took a while for me to work up the courage to begin the work as I know it is going to be a living nightmare.

 

[TFRnoob]

^^This^^

Don't waste your time trying to band-aid it. Start tearing your engine out now while you look for a replacement one.

Or just get a whole other T4R. If the body/frame of yours is in good shape, you can still fetch some decent coin for it from a buyer up North

You think replacing the rod and main bearings in the motor might not solve my problem? How can I tell if there is a crack in the head or block? I probably cant do a pressure test in my driveway. Is there a simpler way? I am trying to remember if there was any coolant/water in the oil and it didn't look like it.

Also, the radiator was full; although, the coolant reservoir was pretty much empty. Not sure what that implies exactly but doesn't seems good.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

HAHAHA yes, it was a tough job. :banana: No it took a while for me to work up the courage to begin the work as I know it is going to be a living nightmare.

I think he's just wondering how the hell the engine got oil starved within 2 weeks of use if you're so religious about checking the oil level.

Sounds like the engine already had problems that needed to be addressed way before it got crippled.

 

[TFRnoob]

I think he's just wondering how the hell the engine got oil starved within 2 weeks of use if you're so religious about checking the oil level.

Sounds like the engine already had problems that needed to be addressed way before it got crippled.

You're right, it wasn't in amazing shape. There was an oil leak that needed to be addressed and i am beginning to suspect a failing oil pump. The oil light would go occasionally and there would be oil still in the truck. :rip:

Basically its toast but if i can get rid of the rod knock etc and band aid fix it maybe I can sell it "as is" and explain what happened to the truck. Perhaps someone else can address the oil leak/oil pump etc. Who knows...

Right now I am trying to cut my losses and figure out what the best path is to take financially. I don't mind working on the truck if it will get me money to buy a new truck or something.