Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil

[TFRnoob]

It might take a minute to fire while you are cranking. Getting fuel to the injectors and what not. Did you double and triple check your valve timing? If it doesn't start right away don't get discouraged. Just start eliminating potential issues one at a time.

I didn't end up taking the heads off of the junkyard engine but maybe I should have to check the condition of everything and maybe get the heads cleaned too. Oh well. So I am thinking the timing should be fine but I guess you never know.

I think today is the big day. I am gonna work on the car right after work.

ITS FRIDAY!!!!!!

 

[TFRnoob]

On the plugs, the difference is always three:
1-4
2-5
3-6.

So, NO!

Excellent diagram! Thanks for the help.

 

[AntleredRuin]

Excellent diagram! Thanks for the help.

+1 to the diagram.

 

[TFRnoob]

I put everything back together...

I turned the key and nothing.

I jumped the battery and still nothing. I used the battery that I know is good and still nothing except dash lights and some very slow clicking noise from the starter and some pump priming noise.

I really do not know what to even check at this point. :redbrick: :bash: :ak472:

I am wondering if maybe its a ground not bolted to the frame of something.

Any ideas about what to check?

Also, was there anything important I needed to know about installing the starter?

Does it matter the order you attach the battery to the truck? Maybe I did this backwards?

 

[TFRnoob]

I have attached a video of what happens when I have the "good" SAAB's battery into the 4Runner. It isn't always the same exact noises. Occasionally there is a slow clicking noise, sometimes you will hear pumps priming, but the starter never seems to want to crank.

When I first put the battery in I heard some very strange noises coming from some electrical components near the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle.

I know the battery that was in the toyota has almost no juice and even after I jumped it for a long time I decided to see if I put it in my SAAB what would happen and the dash lights are super dim and almost do not come on and there is no chance that it will start the SAAB so I am guessing its is totally bad now.

I know that the battery that I took out of the SAAB does start my SAAB so it is presumably good. I tried it in the 4runner and nothing except some odd noises and the illuminated dash lights.

If the battery turns on the SAAB and doesn't work in the 4runner, does this automatically mean that the problem is not the battery?

I have included some pics of the batteries. The duralast is from the SAAB and is now in the 4runner. The other battery was in the 4runner and had been sitting for a very long time and is pretty much toast I am guessing.

Thanks for all of the help everyone!

 

[TFRnoob]

The video did not upload...

I will try to upload again here.

Again, this is a no crank, no start problem...

Possibilities that I think it could be are

1) battery
2) starter
3) fuses?
4) engine harness connections that I applied dielectric greese to???

I really do not know.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSPA3WiNvfk

 

[ThorInc]

I'd say your battery terminals need some serious cleaning and TLC as well. Rust there will cause some serious issues.

 

[TFRnoob]

Maybe neutral safety switch? whatever that is...

The truck also doesn't want to get out of park but maybe its because the car wont start??? I just do not know what to do...

 

[cashmoney]

If it doesn't come out of park then there's something going on between the brake pedal/linkage/associated wiring with that whole system. I wouldn't worry about the rust on the terminals just yet. Definitely have he battery load checked. I'd also get under the truck and get a breaker bar on the crank pulley and make sure the engine turns over easy. If it does then we can start going else where but if it doesn't we've got another direction to take.

 

[TFRnoob]

Okay, so I just haven't been in the truck in a while and I didn't press the large button to allow the shifter to move. hahaha :trophy: :dizzy:

So that is not a problem.

I can move the crank in the CW direction with relative ease even with the plugs still in. I am not sure how freely it should move but i am only pulling a slight to moderate amount of force behind the 10" socket wrench to spin it.

There does seem to be areas of the rotation that seems to be slightly tougher to turn but I imagine this is normal and is the compression stroke?

Cleaned the battery terminals and connectors as best I could w/o solvents and then applied a thin layer of dielectric grease then clamped it down.

Still no success. :dammit:

 

[cashmoney]

Start eliminating things one by one. Can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on? Have you checked voltage going to the starter when you turn the key? Have you checked and rechecked rechecked your rechecked wiring? Is anything pinched? Have you checked the fuses? Search on line for wiring diagrams and pictures about where wires go. Can you hear the solenoid on the starter click? You just performed a heart transplant. Going to take some time to put all of the pieces together and make sure stuff works.

Most important question, do you have any parts left over?

 

[TFRnoob]

Start eliminating things one by one. Can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on? Have you checked voltage going to the starter when you turn the key? Have you checked and rechecked rechecked your rechecked wiring? Is anything pinched? Have you checked the fuses? Search on line for wiring diagrams and pictures about where wires go. Can you hear the solenoid on the starter click? You just performed a heart transplant. Going to take some time to put all of the pieces together and make sure stuff works.

Most important question, do you have any parts left over?

The only thing I could have left over is a hose. I checked everywhere to see where it might go but I do not see it anywhere. I am assuming at this point that it was a duplicate hose from having two engines.

I took the battery to my local auto supply store and they said it had 7.5V so its pretty much dead. They said they would try and charge it for free. I am concerned that it isn't the battery because I used the good one from the SAAB and still nothing. However, maybe for some reason that isn't gonna work.

I am still concerned about the engine harness as I put dielectric grease in all connectors. I am not sure if it is possible for this to be the problem. I am assuming this grease conducts electricity so I should be fine if this is true, right?

Any ideas on how to test starters?

 

[TFRnoob]

I hear some slow clicks near the starter area.

 

[cashmoney]

Auto store can test the starter for free. Have them load test both batteries.

 

[Brveagle]

Stop over thinking it. If your battery has 7.5 volts that is your issue.dielectric grease is your friend, not your enemy.

 

[TFRnoob]

I bought a brand new battery as the old one tested bad. I hooked it up and pretty much the same thing.

I get three clicks when I put the key to the on position and no crank at all when I put the key to the start position.

The crank is attached to the flex plate, the flex plate is attached to the torque converter, and the torque converter is attached to the transmission. Does this mean that if I can turn the crank with relative ease that I shouldn't have to worry about something mechanical stopping the starter from working? If that were the case would I hear a loud noise of some kind?

The car does not start in park or neutral.

What does everyone think I should check next? I checked the fuses visually to see if any of the links were broken and I found nothing to report. I checked the ~10 or so fuses to the left and below the steering wheel and the small fuses in the black box located next to the battery. I did not check the really large fuses though.

The ground to the battery cable that attaches to a bolt located on the driver's side of the engine block right by the oil pan might have had small amounts of dirt/oil so I will clean and re attach i guess.

After that I am out of ideas.

 

[TheDurk]

I bought a brand new battery as the old one tested bad. I hooked it up and pretty much the same thing.

I get three clicks when I put the key to the on position and no crank at all when I put the key to the start position.

The crank is attached to the flex plate, the flex plate is attached to the torque converter, and the torque converter is attached to the transmission. Does this mean that if I can turn the crank with relative ease that I shouldn't have to worry about something mechanical stopping the starter from working? If that were the case would I hear a loud noise of some kind?

The car does not start in park or neutral.

What does everyone think I should check next? I checked the fuses visually to see if any of the links were broken and I found nothing to report. I checked the ~10 or so fuses to the left and below the steering wheel and the small fuses in the black box located next to the battery. I did not check the really large fuses though.

The ground to the battery cable that attaches to a bolt located on the driver's side of the engine block right by the oil pan might have had small amounts of dirt/oil so I will clean and re attach i guess.

After that I am out of ideas.

Checking fuses visually is a waste of time. Use a test light or swap in a known good fuse, especially STA fuse. Then check for voltage at the starter relay when key is turned to start at Pins 3, 5 and 1 (all three should have battery voltage) and check for ground at Pin 2. Report back and we'll go from there. Relax, we'll run this down.

Oh, dielectric grease is non-conductive. It's more important to isolate current leakage and avoid shorts than cause shorts using something conductive. Current will flow fine through the metal-to-metal contact even when covered in insulating dielectric grease. The exception is the battery posts, where it is ok to use petroleum jelly aka Vaseline if you want something conductive. In any case clean those terminals until they are bright. Get a battery brush at NAPA or Wal-Mart. They're cheap.

When connecting/disconnecting a battery always remove negative (ground) first and connect it last. This avoids the risk of a short through your body or your tools while you are working on it, but otherwise the order is not important.

 

[Diezel]

How snug is the power cable ON the starter?

 

[TFRnoob]

Oh, dielectric grease is non-conductive. It's more important to isolate current leakage and avoid shorts than cause shorts using something conductive. Current will flow fine through the metal-to-metal contact even when covered in insulating dielectric grease.

Thanks Durk! For whatever reason I have been very focused on the globs of dielectric grease I put on every single engine harness connection pretty much. I think there were only a few that I may have skipped.

I will buy a brush tomorrow along with a fuse tester and I will check the relays. If I bring the relays to a auto supply store would they test it? I sort of understand how they work but I am not sure I would be confident in testing it myself.

Again, thanks for the help.

 

[TFRnoob]

How snug is the power cable ON the starter?

That is a good question. I think I may want to double check that it is tight enough. I may have just used this tiny socket wrench to tighten the bolt onto the starter.

I will double check that its not loose and let you know. Thanks for the help Diezel.