Gerdo
New member
You won't know it is there in 2wd until you go into 4wd. Glen was saying that you will have binding all the time when accelerating in 4wd and then it will be hard to steer.
Ever had a CV break like this? [reposting from TTORA]
- Thread starter nilson
- Start date
You won't know it is there in 2wd until you go into 4wd. Glen was saying that you will have binding all the time when accelerating in 4wd and then it will be hard to steer.
nilson
New member
I've got a few pics of the overall disassmbly process which hasn't moved much since last update. I've been too lazy to work on it without the money to fix everything yet (gonna go ahead and replace the rack, bushings, BJs, etc while I've got it broken down).
Anyway I wanna finish pulling the rack tonight. Got the TREs disconnected from the spindles but my FSM says I gotta pull the steering wheel to prevent breaking the spiral cable. The only way I can see that happening is if the wheel were allowed to spin out of its range of motion because of being disconnected from the rack.
Can I skip dropping the steering wheel if I just wire it in place? Thanks.
I'll post a few daylight pics I took later.
Anyway I wanna finish pulling the rack tonight. Got the TREs disconnected from the spindles but my FSM says I gotta pull the steering wheel to prevent breaking the spiral cable. The only way I can see that happening is if the wheel were allowed to spin out of its range of motion because of being disconnected from the rack.
Can I skip dropping the steering wheel if I just wire it in place? Thanks.
I'll post a few daylight pics I took later.
cordrayj1
New member
ive done that. spin a wheel, hit a rock, BAM. youre done for the day. drill, tap, puller, problem solved.
only takes once to learn the lesson of wheel speed. one word: lockers.
and singtoe, i didnt remove the diff.
and i also didnt do what i learned in kindergarten, read the directions. because i didnt see the first pic. imagine that. Mine was staying put in the diff unlike the OP.
only takes once to learn the lesson of wheel speed. one word: lockers.
and singtoe, i didnt remove the diff.
and i also didnt do what i learned in kindergarten, read the directions. because i didnt see the first pic. imagine that. Mine was staying put in the diff unlike the OP.
Singtoe
New member
If his wasn't sideways inside his diff, he might have some different options but it looks pretty FUBARed in the OP's picture. He is doing the right thing, breaking it down, removing the broken pieces, cleaning it up and making sure everything is within spec.
Pikeman
New member
I am just running an Aussie in the rear. I am pretty sure that someone down here in So Cal or another one that likes to be helpfull to others is running one. I am trying to remember what Jmoney put in his.
LittleCaesar
New member
Those stock OEM shock/struts must be worn out by now. Replace them as well.
cordrayj1
New member
Sears has the hex size you need w a 3/8 or 1/2 drive. I used a long extension w an impact universal joint and a big impact. It was HOT when I pulled the plug out. Also soaked it pb blaster the day before.
Gerdo
New member
Try Ace hardware. Their tools are bad and they also carry Craftsman.
I'm trying to remember. Either the bolt head or the nut has serrations so it doesn't vibrate loose. You will only be able to loosen one or the other.
nilson
New member
Unfortunately we don't have an ACE hardware in town, but there is a good locally-run parts store I haven't been to yet that I will try.
Home Depot, Lowes, OReillys, Advanced Auto, Sears, none had a damn 12mm hex in stock. Crazy!
I'm gonna see if I cant get ahold of some PB Blaster and/or a propane torch tomorrow and "massage" those DS bolts better. Good tip on the serrations; I may have better luck with trying to turn the bolt instead.
Home Depot, Lowes, OReillys, Advanced Auto, Sears, none had a damn 12mm hex in stock. Crazy!
I'm gonna see if I cant get ahold of some PB Blaster and/or a propane torch tomorrow and "massage" those DS bolts better. Good tip on the serrations; I may have better luck with trying to turn the bolt instead.
glenyoshida
New member
I ended up ordering a 12mm from the web somewhere. In the mean time I took a larger allen wrench and ground it to size. Grind carefully if you take that route. It'll be a can of cussing if you strip that one out.
It's harder to turn the bolt side on the drive shaft bolts. Those are splined like Gerdo mentioned. Turn the nut side. I've had trouble with them on several vehicles before. I found it worth it to make a breaker bar for the box wrench. Remember to put anti size on them when they go back together. Also remember to make match marks so the drive shaft goes back on in the same way you took it off.
When you have stubborn bolts like that it's worth trying to create micro movements by tightening the nut and then loosening it. Even if you can't see it moving you are cycling it in that manner can cause movements enough to free up a stuck bolt. It's counter intuitive I know but I've had success doing that several times. It's a lot of elbow grease and a lot of cycles but it saves you from stripping out a nut. If worse comes to worse you can cut the bolts off since they are not hard to replace.
Definitely use PB blaster or some other kind of penetrating oil. Let it soak for 15 minutes. That stuff really does help.
It's harder to turn the bolt side on the drive shaft bolts. Those are splined like Gerdo mentioned. Turn the nut side. I've had trouble with them on several vehicles before. I found it worth it to make a breaker bar for the box wrench. Remember to put anti size on them when they go back together. Also remember to make match marks so the drive shaft goes back on in the same way you took it off.
When you have stubborn bolts like that it's worth trying to create micro movements by tightening the nut and then loosening it. Even if you can't see it moving you are cycling it in that manner can cause movements enough to free up a stuck bolt. It's counter intuitive I know but I've had success doing that several times. It's a lot of elbow grease and a lot of cycles but it saves you from stripping out a nut. If worse comes to worse you can cut the bolts off since they are not hard to replace.
Definitely use PB blaster or some other kind of penetrating oil. Let it soak for 15 minutes. That stuff really does help.
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(Had this thing in a drawer for like 5 years)
glenyoshida
New member
Reconnecting the drive shaft in the same phase can avoid introducing drive line vibrations. It's normally not a problem but it's an easy way to prevent that issue.
