Ever had a CV break like this? [reposting from TTORA]

[nilson]

So I opened the diff, and found a broken tooth on the ring gear. The rest of the teeth look fine, including the pinion. Any real reason to worry about it?

Also I guess I need to remove those funny-looking bolts to get at the broken axle piece.... Any tips/suggestions for disassembling further?

 

[glenyoshida]

It's more likely to blow up the ring and pinon especially under load. Right now it's just the ring. If you break off another piece of the ring then you could also lose the pinion, spiders, and send a shock load into other components in your drive train such as your transfer case, ujoints, axles. etc. I'd replace the ring if it were me. IMO it is something to worry about.

 

[nilson]

Starting to build up a pile of parts! Rebuilt rack, Energy Suspension rack bushings, new TREs, new lower balljoints, new broke rotors, and new CV axles.

Just ordered some Wagner ThermoQuiet pads for the front and will get new LCA bushings this week.

 

[tbst]

I have the Wagner ThermoQuiet. Good pads.

And good job taking your time and doing it right!

 

[nilson]

Gonna get the LBJs installed then pull the LCAs pending bushing swap on them tonight. Trying to figure out where to source the outer TRE locknuts; the new TREs did not include them.

 

[glenyoshida]

edit: I moved post with part numbers to the tie rod end nuts and some info on removing the bushings to HERE in the appropriate thread.

 

[nilson]

Got the differential buttoned back up; cleaned it out really well and packed all the bearings with grease. Who knows how long it'll last with that chipped tooth on the ring gear, but I can't justify the expense of replacing that right now... May never have a problem from it.

Gonna take the sawzall to those damned LCA bushing sleeves today.

Some part numbers for reference: (some of these I cant find online; these are numbers from the Dealership)

Front Differential Left Axle Seal: 90311-47012
Front Differential Right Axle Seal: 90311-47013

Two of each required per side:
Lower Control Arm Alignment Cam w/ Sleeve: 48409B
Lower Control Arm Alignment Cam (Nut): 48452A
Lower Control Arm Bolt: 90119-14071

Outer TRE lock nuts: 90170-20003 (includes 2)

 

[DeTwizzle]

^ All I can say is dont haul anything really heavy with that chipped tooth. I broke 2 and half teeth off my larges ring gear hauling oh... a ton...lol. And just so everyone knows, the max load capacity for the 4runner is 500lbs. Just so everyone knows... I sure didnt until I blew my 3 member.:hiding:

 

[steezemcqueen]

^ All I can say is dont haul anything really heavy with that chipped tooth. I broke 2 and half teeth off my larges ring gear hauling oh... a ton...lol. And just so everyone knows, the max load capacity for the 4runner is 500lbs. Just so everyone knows... I sure didnt until I blew my 3 member.:hiding:

Its alot more than 500lbs. Closer to 1500lbs. Just FYI

 

[DeTwizzle]

I am referring to what the manual says, which is that you shouldn't load more than 500lbs into your cargo bay. I'm sure you can go more, but I will say that you def don't want to load a ton of concrete landscaping block into your rig... take it from me. (wink wink)

Its alot more than 500lbs. Closer to 1500lbs. Just FYI

 

[nilson]

The chipped gear is in the front diff so I dont expect it will encounter too much of a load most of the time.

If it grenades and I have to buy a new diff, well thats not much different in price than fixing it now.

Already spending too much money reworking the frontend...

 

[steezemcqueen]

I am referring to what the manual says, which is that you shouldn't load more than 500lbs into your cargo bay. I'm sure you can go more, but I will say that you def don't want to load a ton of concrete landscaping block into your rig... take it from me. (wink wink)

Straight from the specs in the brochure says that the payload is 1320 lbs. My 4runner has carried over 3000 lbs without any issues. I bet that your chipped ring gear was due to something else.

 

[nilson]

Got the LCAs off... started on one with the sawzall until its battery died and then tried the old hammer again and was able to get the bushings out. Apparently they had soaked in WD-40 long enough.

Got a job to do cleaning up the underside of the engine and front crossmembers though. Oil/dirt everywhere from a leaky rear main seal and busted CV boots.

Anyway, a couple pics:

 

[nilson]

Got the bushings pressed out with this ingenious method:

 

[nilson]

Picked up the LCA bushings and new alignment cams yesterday, along with a new starter.

I may try to finish up the cleaning tonight and/or get the starter swapped.

I've had a fever the past few days and havent felt like doing any work on it.

 

[cordrayj1]

did you rebuild the rack yourself?

 

[Gerdo]

Did I miss it? Did you get the broken stub out of the diff? If so, How?

 

[nilson]

I was able to shake it out of the part that unbolts after disassembling the diff. Got it lined up with the splines and just tapped it on the floor until it came out.

 

[Gerdo]

I was able to shake it out of the part that unbolts after disassembling the diff. Got it lined up with the splines and just tapped it on the floor until it came out.

Simple!
Remove the front diff and tap it on the floor. I'm guessing it was an aftermarket axle.

 

[nilson]

did you rebuild the rack yourself?

I didn't, I bought a remanufactured unit from Advance Auto Parts, ended up costing less than $300 after the core if I remember correctly.

I'm saving $50 every time I buy stuff from Advance by ordering online and using coupons (google for them). I can't resist lol :frog: