Everything you always wanted to know about LBJ bolts

I started testing both configurations (with and without the washer) but then decided that the latter is dumb, so continued testing only with the washer. That hardened washer does a great job of preventing galling under the head, so I don't see why anyone would want to use the ARP bolt without the included washer.

Ah okay good to know. So I think we should opt for the 35mm boot then to have good thread engagement based on some of those other posts above?
 
I started testing both configurations (with and without the washer) but then decided that the latter is dumb, so continued testing only with the washer. That hardened washer does a great job of preventing galling under the head, so I don't see why anyone would want to use the ARP bolt without the included washer.

Funny you say that, I wasn't aware they came with a washer until yesterday, the ARPs I originally got with my uniball LBJs didn't come with them. I noticed one of my bolts was pretty chewed up for some reason while doing work the other day so I bought a replacement pack from Summit and they came with the washers they were supposed to have, which gave me a very odd and sketchy feeling about what I currently had installed
 
Funny you say that, I wasn't aware they came with a washer until yesterday, the ARPs I originally got with my uniball LBJs didn't come with them. I noticed one of my bolts was pretty chewed up for some reason while doing work the other day so I bought a replacement pack from Summit and they came with the washers they were supposed to have, which gave me a very odd and sketchy feeling about what I currently had installed

That's odd that they didn't supply the washers with the ARP bolts. The hardened washer definitely help cut down on galling, and reduce the friction losses under the head.
 
Funny you say that, I wasn't aware they came with a washer until yesterday, the ARPs I originally got with my uniball LBJs didn't come with them. I noticed one of my bolts was pretty chewed up for some reason while doing work the other day so I bought a replacement pack from Summit and they came with the washers they were supposed to have, which gave me a very odd and sketchy feeling about what I currently had installed
If you got the ARP bolts from Josh, he doesn't supply them with washers because they'll be too short and he buys the bolts and bulk

If you buy the bolt kit commercially, they come with washers but 30 mm is too short with a washer

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If you search on ARP 663-1004 you'll get a pack of 5 (awkward number for this use, but it tis what it tis) 35mm long bolts with washers.
 
If you search on ARP 663-1004 you'll get a pack of 5 (awkward number for this use, but it tis what it tis) 35mm long bolts with washers.

Man the pricing for these is all over the place... Where are you guys ordering them from?
 
If you search on ARP 663-1004 you'll get a pack of 5 (awkward number for this use, but it tis what it tis) 35mm long bolts with washers.
A spare in every pack

For the cost of 663-1004, the Toyota black bolt is about 1/2 the price

Personally I've been using ARP 663-1003 sans washers without issue and bought a set of the 2001-2002 black bolts to keep on the rig as spares

663-1003 is often available on Amazon sub-$18 with free shipping

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Leon,

First let me just say thank you so much for all your hard work. I recently purchased an 02 SR5 and have found this thread very helpful. When it warms up I'm planning on doing some rebuilding of the front suspension. My biggest concern would be the bolts backing out and allowing for gapping. I know you said you don't recommend thread locking compounds so I figure I could just occasionally check the torque. What time interval would you recommend? I was thinking maybe every 6 months and after any wheeling trip.
 
Leon,

First let me just say thank you so much for all your hard work. I recently purchased an 02 SR5 and have found this thread very helpful. When it warms up I'm planning on doing some rebuilding of the front suspension. My biggest concern would be the bolts backing out and allowing for gapping. I know you said you don't recommend thread locking compounds so I figure I could just occasionally check the torque. What time interval would you recommend? I was thinking maybe every 6 months and after any wheeling trip.

Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you found this useful!

I think your plan for torque check is more than adequate, you should be able to catch early anything that starts going awry.

I'm still tinkering with some ideas for making a robust locking feature, but am having trouble making it cost effective, so I may just forget the whole thing :).
 
I think your plan for torque check is more than adequate, you should be able to catch early anything that starts going awry.
I'm still tinkering with some ideas for making a robust locking feature, I may just forget the whole thing :).

With out loctite. When changing my oil if I can't remember last time I checked torque I do it.

Robust locking feature ideas. Don't know how cost effective it is drilling hole in bolt head.
Safety Wire is used land air and sea in many critical applications just a thought.
 
Well boys, the new oem LBJ's are in with the 35mm ARP bolts torqued to 61 ft-lbs.

:guitar2:

With that said, the old joints still feel pretty good. Are they worth keeping or nay?
 
Robust locking feature ideas. Don't know how cost effective it is drilling hole in bolt head.
Safety Wire is used land air and sea in many critical applications just a thought.

That's certainly an option! I was looking into something more along the lines of the Stage 8 system that Charlie showed earlier, but it's going to get too spendy I think.
 
Ah good idea guys. Although out of curiosity, does anyone have a good idea of what "too loose" feels like? Or can you really only get a good idea with them on the vehicle?

for trail spares, I wouldn't worry about it.

You have to have them mounted to properly check the play per Timmy's video.
 
That's certainly an option! I was looking into something more along the lines of the Stage 8 system that Charlie showed earlier, but it's going to get too spendy I think.

Hadn't seen that post. Not a bad idea, as you've found spendy.
Apples to apples, load forces are different between the two applications. Shear vs Tensile.
Repetitive rotational shear force loads require more than repetitive tensile loads when
it comes to keeping fasteners tight. 4k rpm launch vs up an down on the road.
Less is more, over engineering costs money has been my experience.
 

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