I started testing both configurations (with and without the washer) but then decided that the latter is dumb, so continued testing only with the washer. That hardened washer does a great job of preventing galling under the head, so I don't see why anyone would want to use the ARP bolt without the included washer.
Ah okay good to know. So I think we should opt for the 35mm boot then to have good thread engagement based on some of those other posts above?
I started testing both configurations (with and without the washer) but then decided that the latter is dumb, so continued testing only with the washer. That hardened washer does a great job of preventing galling under the head, so I don't see why anyone would want to use the ARP bolt without the included washer.
Funny you say that, I wasn't aware they came with a washer until yesterday, the ARPs I originally got with my uniball LBJs didn't come with them. I noticed one of my bolts was pretty chewed up for some reason while doing work the other day so I bought a replacement pack from Summit and they came with the washers they were supposed to have, which gave me a very odd and sketchy feeling about what I currently had installed
If you got the ARP bolts from Josh, he doesn't supply them with washers because they'll be too short and he buys the bolts and bulkFunny you say that, I wasn't aware they came with a washer until yesterday, the ARPs I originally got with my uniball LBJs didn't come with them. I noticed one of my bolts was pretty chewed up for some reason while doing work the other day so I bought a replacement pack from Summit and they came with the washers they were supposed to have, which gave me a very odd and sketchy feeling about what I currently had installed
If you search on ARP 663-1004 you'll get a pack of 5 (awkward number for this use, but it tis what it tis) 35mm long bolts with washers.
A spare in every packIf you search on ARP 663-1004 you'll get a pack of 5 (awkward number for this use, but it tis what it tis) 35mm long bolts with washers.
Leon,
First let me just say thank you so much for all your hard work. I recently purchased an 02 SR5 and have found this thread very helpful. When it warms up I'm planning on doing some rebuilding of the front suspension. My biggest concern would be the bolts backing out and allowing for gapping. I know you said you don't recommend thread locking compounds so I figure I could just occasionally check the torque. What time interval would you recommend? I was thinking maybe every 6 months and after any wheeling trip.
I think your plan for torque check is more than adequate, you should be able to catch early anything that starts going awry.
I'm still tinkering with some ideas for making a robust locking feature, I may just forget the whole thing.
Well boys, the new oem LBJ's are in with the 35mm ARP bolts torqued to 61 ft-lbs.
:guitar2:
With that said, the old joints still feel pretty good. Are they worth keeping or nay?
Truck spares!Well boys, the new oem LBJ's are in with the 35mm ARP bolts torqued to 61 ft-lbs.
:guitar2:
With that said, the old joints still feel pretty good. Are they worth keeping or nay?
Truck spares!
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Robust locking feature ideas. Don't know how cost effective it is drilling hole in bolt head.
Safety Wire is used land air and sea in many critical applications just a thought.
Always good to have spares around!
Truck spares!
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Ah good idea guys. Although out of curiosity, does anyone have a good idea of what "too loose" feels like? Or can you really only get a good idea with them on the vehicle?
That's certainly an option! I was looking into something more along the lines of the Stage 8 system that Charlie showed earlier, but it's going to get too spendy I think.