Everything you always wanted to know about LBJ bolts

[Rushthezeppelin]

Anyway to get a TLDR on this thread updated for the OP? I'm just trying to figure out which bolts I need to get to delete my moog LBJs (I thought I was fine just checking the play in them frequently but ran into a guy who had the Moog bolts sheer and lose a LBJ that way, cost him like 1k) and really don't have time on a Monday morning when I should be working to figure this out looking through 5 pages of thread. Should I get the 663-1004 or -1003? Who is likely to have the best price? What torque spec should I throw on them?

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Anyway to get a TLDR on this thread updated for the OP? I'm just trying to figure out which bolts I need to get to delete my moog LBJs (I thought I was fine just checking the play in them frequently but ran into a guy who had the Moog bolts sheer and lose a LBJ that way, cost him like 1k) and really don't have time on a Monday morning when I should be working to figure this out looking through 5 pages of thread. Should I get the 663-1004 or -1003? Who is likely to have the best price? What torque spec should I throw on them?

I'd go with either ARP 663-1004 or ARP 673-1004 (torqued to 60-65 ft-lbs) or OEM Toyota 90119-10933 (torqued to 37 ft-lbs).

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

I'd go with either ARP 663-1004 or ARP 673-1004 (torqued to 60-65 ft-lbs) or OEM Toyota 90119-10933 (torqued to 37 ft-lbs).

Thank you ever so kindly. LBJs with OEM bolts now ordered. 300 bucks from Stevinson but I guess that's a lot better than risking 1k+ from moog bolts shearing (and with some of the other stuff I've seen on my truck, who knows if those were even properly torqued, hoping I don't find buggered threads in my spindle lol)

 

[ninethings]

LBJ bolt SIZE

Sorry, I’m new here.

I’ve searched and searched and probably read 40 pages of threads at this point.

What is the SIZE of these bolts? Every thread where someone asks the automatic answer is “just buy the OEM bolts”

Ok yes, I agree, but that doesn’t help my situation.

I swapped my axles last weekend and realized I’d reused my (likely original) LBJ bolts. When going to replace with the correct for my build date OEM bolts I stripped the literal last one. I need to tap that hole

One person I saw reply said they *think* it’s m10x1 but I would love if someone could confirm size and thread pitch.


Much appreciated

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Sorry, I’m new here.

I’ve searched and searched and probably read 40 pages of threads at this point.

What is the SIZE of these bolts? Every thread where someone asks the automatic answer is “just buy the OEM bolts”

Ok yes, I agree, but that doesn’t help my situation.

I swapped my axles last weekend and realized I’d reused my (likely original) LBJ bolts. When going to replace with the correct for my build date OEM bolts I stripped the literal last one. I need to tap that hole

One person I saw reply said they *think* it’s m10x1 but I would love if someone could confirm size and thread pitch.


Much appreciated

They're all M10 x 1.25" threads :thumb:.

 

[brillo_76]

Must not have read this thread as to why spiker did these tests be begin with. So I abbreviated it. These bolts can snap, and Spiker did a thorough analysis as to which ones were the best to keep this from happening along with reusing them.

So, just grabbing bolts somewhere may not be the best course action.
Granted, the size is listed above. So that question has been answered..

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Must not have read this thread as to why spiker did these tests be begin with. So I abbreviated it. These bolts can snap, and Spiker did a thorough analysis as to which ones were the best to keep this from happening along with reusing them.

So, just grabbing bolts somewhere may not be the best course action.
Granted, the size is listed above. So that question has been answered..

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

He was talking about tapping the knuckle to clean up threads, not find some rando bolts that fit. That said this is one place I'd be weary of tapping to clean up given how critical this part is. I wouldn't want weakened threads here and they might just strip again when you try retorque new bolts. If they are barely buggered maybe you would be okay, no clue. I would personally replace the knuckle asap.

 

[brillo_76]

He was talking about tapping the knuckle to clean up threads, not find some rando bolts that fit. That said this is one place I'd be weary of tapping to clean up given how critical this part is. I wouldn't want weakened threads here and they might just strip again when you try retorque new bolts. If they are barely buggered maybe you would be okay, no clue. I would personally replace the knuckle asap.

Ah. I guess you can retap those threads. Granted, it's their rig if that's what they want to do. So be it.

I recently had one of 4 bolts on the lbj and one snap. Luckily I welded a head on it and got it out with heat

I could see a spindle bolts threads rusting from sitting around.

It probably depends on what the vehicle is used for. 4 wheeling is extremely hard on components.

Where they just drive down the pavement on roads only. Not usually are harsh on the components.

That will teach me to forum respond after midnight. :]



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[HiLife]

Ah. I guess you can retap those threads. Granted, it's their rig if that's what they want to do. So be it.

I recently had one of 4 bolts on the lbj and one snap. Luckily I welded a head on it and got it out with heat

I could see a spindle bolts threads rusting from sitting around.

It probably depends on what the vehicle is used for. 4 wheeling is extremely hard on components.

Where they just drive down the pavement on roads only. Not usually are harsh on the components.

That will teach me to forum respond after midnight. :]

That friend I was helping with the spindle with, told me he never offroaded. Only pot holed, poorly asphalt/cement patched roads he told me he drove on. Our area roads are that bad imo. Granted, those lbj and bolts were over 120k since he last replaced with blue lock tite. I didn't asked if it was periodly retorqued.

He showed me the spot where the bolts let go, there was huge pot hole. Found only 3 of the snapped bolt heads around that area.

Probally lost 1 somewhere else. Drove with only 3 bolts, then he hit that pot hole and it let go.

 

[brillo_76]

That friend I was helping with the spindle with, told me he never offroaded. Only pot holed, poorly asphalt/cement patched roads he told me he drove on. Our area roads are that bad imo. Granted, those lbj and bolts were over 120k since he last replaced with blue lock tite. I didn't asked if it was periodly retorqued.

He showed me the spot where the bolts let go, there was huge pot hole. Found only 3 of the snapped bolt heads around that area.

Probally lost 1 somewhere else. Drove with only 3 bolts, then he hit that pot hole and it let go.

I could see it happening some pot holes are nasty. Probably best to do a visual inspection every 5K. ( When the oil is change give that area a look over things. )

That's when you take photos and send them to the people responsible for fixing the road. With the bill of repair. I know some areas don't repair things timely or ever. [ I know it will do nothing] but at least you feel better and have proof of the damage done from it.

 

[toverturf]

Don't Hate Me For Wrecking The Customers 4Runner! - YouTube Matt's Offroad Recovery posted a video today recovering a 3rd gen that had the lower ball joint bolts break off. Looks like 2 backed out and the other 2 broke off. Good example of what happens when you probably reuse the bolts a lot or don't torque them right.

 

[96RedRunner]

And how about that flat towing, rear drive used to get Runner on dovetail. Something that caught my eye in Vid.
I wonder what the bill is for that remote tow.

Wondered if that was a member.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Don't Hate Me For Wrecking The Customers 4Runner! - YouTube Matt's Offroad Recovery posted a video today recovering a 3rd gen that had the lower ball joint bolts break off. Looks like 2 backed out and the other 2 broke off. Good example of what happens when you probably reuse the bolts a lot or don't torque them right.

Indeed, looks like a classic failure mode for these.

 

[JohnMc]

Heh, I was watching that and looking to see what happened. The ball separated? The ball side broke? Nope, two missing and two broken bolts.

I'm guessing under torqued, and two loosened and backed out over a period of time, and then the remaining two were overstressed n the trail and snapped.

 

[96RedRunner]

Thread getting bumped took another look at vid.
@ 6:51 Fender has good bit of tiger stripes so its been used, knuckle surface rust dust looks old,
take a look at BJ"s black paint silver cap looks newer or am I seeing things
Makes me think owner knew to change 'em. Wonder what happened to the two other bolts break off or fall out.
I'd like to see where it actually broke log skid was used for a ways I gathered, could of been a legit place that breaks chit.

Been 3-4 yrs since I witnessed this happen for someone else pops up on MORR nice reminder chit happens.
Current tires like a 3k mi rotation I take a look pry on chit socket on bolts an a tug.

 

[ibob4tacoz]

Just wanted to pop in and say thanks for the work you put in, man. Just did my LBJ today and it was nice to know for sure that I chose bolts I can trust.

 

[mac33]

First off thanks for doing all the research and testing Mr. Spiker! (I have a few of your parts :tea


I read this thread awhile ago and knew I would be coming back to this thread when I was ready to redo my front suspension.


I am going with ARP 663-1004 - torqued to 61ft-lbs.

 

[_Ace_]

I installed OEM black with washer bolts on my 1998 when I installed new lower ball joints last month.

Your study helped me make the decision - thanks!

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Nice to see that this is still helpful to folks!

 

[Robb235]

I'd go with either ARP 663-1004 or ARP 673-1004 (torqued to 60-65 ft-lbs) or OEM Toyota 90119-10933 (torqued to 37 ft-lbs).

Any thoughts on the stainless ARP bolts? 763-1004 in particular...

Curious what the difference is between the stainless 763-1004 versus the 663-1004/673-1004.

I bought the stainless 763-1004 before I read this thread... wondering if I should return them.