extened front end links? will tundra's work, what year and drive train?

theizzardking

New member
going to do my front sway bar bushings today as my other ones are really shot, i believe they exploded from running end links that are to short, meaning when the truck should be at full droop the end links would pull abnormally had on the sway bar bushing and made it pop out the side of the bracket. no bigge, but would like to get some longer ones while i'm removing them anyways for the new sway bar bushing.

from my understanding i need ones about 1/2-3/4 inch longer then stock and i can swap the fronts to the rear to get that end right, what i can't find is another yota truck i can swipe these longer end links from, i'm going to the junk yard on my lunch break to see what i can score and need information on which trucks i should be looking at for these longer end links.


side note, i'm really really stoked looked at my sway bar bracket and that thing is clean, like it just came off the factory floor, i don;t see rusted bolts being an issue on this one, thanks god after all of teh horror stories i've heard about this seemingly simple job!:reddance:
 
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You can keep the same length sway bar end links by using bracket relocators(don't know what they are called). That way you can have a shorter, and likely stiffer endlink. I have a set at home that I can sell you. I'll take a picture when I get home.
Josh

Here's the link, scroll down to where it says front sway bar relocation brackets.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml
 
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just found this post on another random thread...


you can also use endlinks from a 2nd gen 4runner and they are even longer then those front endlinks, especially if most people are running land cruiser springs in the rear for a lift.

"those front end links meaning stock end links, the thread referenced above is talking about swapping front to the rear.

if the 2nd gen end links are longer then the stock 3rd gen can i just buy a pair of those and put them on my 3rd gen?
 
so if i read that right a 1 inch derlin block will effectivly nuturalize a 2 inch lift?

so does that mean i should use a 1.5 inch block for my 3 inches of lift?
i don't know how i feel about this being made of derlin and may just prefer to go with a longer end link off another stock Toyota vehicle before i try this.

any idea of the bolt size used for the sway bar bracket so, i can put this together today while i'm at work just encase if the longer end links are hard to find?

ps why aren't you using yours? lol
 
so if i read that right a 1 inch derlin block will effectivly nuturalize a 2 inch lift?

so does that mean i should use a 1.5 inch block for my 3 inches of lift?
i don't know how i feel about this being made of derlin and may just prefer to go with a longer end link off another stock Toyota vehicle before i try this.

any idea of the bolt size used for the sway bar bracket so, i can put this together today while i'm at work just encase if the longer end links are hard to find?

ps why aren't you using yours? lol

Not sure on the measurement conversion, but with a 3" lift those blocks worked with my stock links. I'll take a look at the bolts when I get home. I was using them until I forgot to unhook my endlinks during a mojave road trip. By the time I thought about un bolting them I had bent one side and snapped the other. I decided to try a set of super burley links from "Stickfigure" to see if the front end felt more connected and what kind of abuse they'd take.
 
so wtf, just got back from the junk yard and the early 90's 4runners had shorter end links then mine and the 1980's series of 4runner had a completely different style of end link all together, no hemi on the end link, it's straight like the moog style end links, no 90 degree joint to go through the a-arm.....

in regards to the spacer option,

excerpt from the page linked above

ront Sway Bar Drop Brackets:
With a front suspension lift, you are in effect moving the suspension control arms away from the frame an amount equal to the height of the lift. One problem this can cause is that the front (anti-)sway bar, if attached, is now no longer sitting in it's original horizontal orientation, since the center of the sway bar is attached to the frame and the end links are attached to the suspenion control arms. This can lead to less efficient anti-sway bar operation. Why? Because if the ends of the sway bar are closer to level, one side will twist upwards and the other side will twist downwards by an equal amount when you are in a hard turn. It is the torsional stiffness of the center of the sway bar that resists this twist and helps to level the body by controlling the body roll (or sway) in hard turns. When the sway bars ends are down at an extreme angle, you end up with one end twisting down farther and the other end twisting less far down. With these unequal angles, you end up needing more twist of the bar to control the body roll and that means there is more body roll than you had with a level sway bar. See this web page for a more detailed explanation...
So there are two ways to fix this issue.
The first is to add longer sway bar end links, you can either modify your existing end links for the added length, or here is a custom built option.
A second option that is less expensive, is to simply lower the sway bar mounting brackets under the frame. This can be done with a simple spacer and longer bolts. See above for the IFS Sway Bar Drop Kit. Since the sway bar attches about half way out on the lower control arm, it only "sees" about 1/2 of the front suspension lift, so a 1" drop spacer is good for around 2" of lift. No need to be exact here, there are no "sway bar police" out there that will be pulling you over to check your sway bar setup. If you have a lift, the 1" sway bar drop kit will help restore your front sway bar to it's factory geometry.

so with this in mind my spacer i'm making will be 1.5 inches or so, as if a 1 inch block is good for 2 inches of lift a 1.5 inch block should suit a 3 inch lift perfectly........
any problems with that?

already got the material set aside for 1.5 inch blocks but need to know that will work before i start cutting
 
hey what years can i pull tehse end links from, and are they the front or the rear? all of the ones i was looking at were not the same, and all related posts suck balls, they just say to use 2nd gen end links, doesn't say 2wd,4wd or what?

can someone please tell me specificly what year and model, and front or back,
as all of the ones i found looked like this and will not work without modification.
100_4569.jpg~original


that looks nothing like mine..............i know this is probably a stupid thing that im just getting all wrong, but help me sort this out please, i've been out to the junk yard already and looked at various years and couldn't find any year of 4runner that had the ball joint, hemi joint on the end.

wtf am i doing wrong?
 
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****ing homo piece of **** **** licker language block is ****ing with my ****ing **** of an image.....**** stain mother **** **** ****....
 
I suggest this:


http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...20-3rd-gen-aftermarket-sway-bar-endlinks.html


Tundra's sway links are still too short. I've done some searching as far as which lengths would be suited best for my 99' with a 3" lift and nothing is close enough. I'm going to go the route that I posted above.


i'm just trying to get my ride back to something that is acceptable on road again, i can't really shell out $120 for quick disconnects, those are nice but just not for me at the moment, so i'm trying to fond something else in the $30 range like the junk yard 2nd gens or making a stupid little block, but i'd prefer to have longer end links then dropping the bracket all together.

and your right it seems 1 inch is the magic number that everyone is looking for (on the front 1 inch in the rear is too long and will bind 1/2-3/4 for the rear)

i have literally spent the whole day trying to sort this out and why the 4runners i was looking at in the junk yard didn't have that style of end link in the front, at this point i'm just trying to figure out what the heck is wrong with me, and why i can't seem to find these end links that everyone else can find so easy, i just don;t get it, i know it's a bit odd because the end link is inverted compared to ours but still, i'm at a loss....lol


anyways, i do like slingtoes ver. better then wab fab's i just don't feel cool with all thread end links, the adjustability is great on wab fabs but i just don't like the idea of that screw being stretched again and again, just a personal opinon if i was going the disconnect route.
 

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