Fedrlbiker Build Thread

Where did you get the mount for your switches? Do you just trim it until it fit then how did you secure it? I was looking to do the same thing with that useless pocket
 
My wife always says she wishes I had a flatter belly...

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I have been wanting to do a rear locker for awhile now myself. prefer going with air, but, reading all the leak problems, I try to avoid the though.

As I haven't seen/experience any lockers w/air setup, knowing exactly how the component engages in there with the line. For instance, when engaging, does the line move with the system? And if so, this would contribute to the line creating leaks at the fitting, or lightly touching moving parts.

And if it does move with the system, to help with pipe staying out of the way, and less movement in the mounting area, wouldn't be wise to have a mounting bracket stabilizing the copper line?

Your picture is bringing these questions out, and Austins reply also.
 
I have been wanting to do a rear locker for awhile now myself. prefer going with air, but, reading all the leak problems, I try to avoid the though.

As I haven't seen/experience any lockers w/air setup, knowing exactly how the component engages in there with the line. For instance, when engaging, does the line move with the system? And if so, this would contribute to the line creating leaks at the fitting, or lightly touching moving parts.

And if it does move with the system, to help with pipe staying out of the way, and less movement in the mounting area, wouldn't be wise to have a mounting bracket stabilizing the copper line?

Your picture is bringing these questions out, and Austins reply also.

It is possible for the line to shudder slightly when engaging, but it doesn't physically move. Honestly, if it ever rubs the gears, it wasn't setup right to begin with. After initiall install it should be maintenance free for many years. The nice thing is that air lockers are instantaneous. Electric lockers have a motor that has to turn and engage.
 
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Took some time to address my storage situation. A while back I built the bottom deck that has t-nuts for modular configurations and bolting things down. Today I used some 2x8's 22" drawer slides and plywood to add separate sliding decks and cubbies underneath. I didn't want to do drawers because I like having my jack mounted inside. This is one more delay from me getting fed up and ordering arb drawers...

The slides and wooden rails in place.


With a base coat of black before plastidip.


Plastidipped and bolted down.


Hi lift jack in place.


Slide!


Acts as a table when camping.


Loaded up with recover gear and misc crap.
 
awesome build, your truck looks amazing. I'm interested in those same Rims, I'm about to pull the trigger on a 2007 SR5 4x4 4Runner. All stock, I'm thinking those Pro Comps 17x9 4.75 back spacing with maybe some 265/70r-17 tires? you think these will work on a stock 4runner sr5 with little to no rubbing?
 
Best battery info I have found yet

For the stereo to run without the ignition on you'll have to run a separate fused line from the aux battery to tap into the main power line on the stereo with an on off switch. Then, you'll have to add a diode to the original positive line so that when you use the aux power it doesn't run power back down to the ignition.

For extra lights, you can just wire straight to the aux battery with a fuse and switch. If you want to run extra high power lights, you can use a solenoid instead of running the hot lines to the switch. Same goes for any accessories. I'm lazy so I run hot lines to the switch unless its a really powerful draw.

You need to run two lines to the solenoid. One from the ignition with an inline diode and one from the aux battery with an inline switch. That way the solenoid kicks on when you start the car or when you flip the switch.

You have to dremel the factory switch holes to fit oversized switches...

That would be a HUGE diode? Would I be better off getting an isolator? As my current setup exists the primary starting battery could be drained because the isolator allows current to flow in both directions?
 
I haven't been active on the forum in quite a while, but I have lots of new things in the works! First, I moved from Dallas, TX to Chapel Hill, NC and am ready to start exploring the Appalachians! Second, I've crossed 200k miles and decided it was time for some maintenance to keep it running properly...

As far as 4runner mods, below is a list either done or in progress as we speak:

Custom Dana 60 Rear Axle installed by East Coast Gear Supply (benefit of the move!)
4.88 gears
OX Rear Air Locker
ARB Front Air Locker
Icon 2.5 Extended Travel Front Coilovers
Icon Tubular UCAs
Metal Tech Long Travel Rear Suspension
- Icon 2.5 Remote Reservoir CDCV Extended Rear Shocks
- Metal Tech Springs
- Metal Tech Lower Control Arms
Switch-Pros 8 position panel power system (need to clean up lots of wiring)
Rack mounted 100w Solar Panel
New AGM 90ah Dual Battery
New Smittybuilt X20 10k Wireless / Synthetic Winch
Doug Thorley Headers (To be installed... passenger manifold cracked)
Moog Inner and Outer Tie-rods
Moog Lower Balljoints
Energy Suspension LCA poly bushings

When the headers get installed, I'll probably redo the entire exhaust. As soon as the new gears are fully broken in, I'll get out and start testing all the new toys and post pictures.
 

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