wrestler157
New member
Where did you get the mount for your switches? Do you just trim it until it fit then how did you secure it? I was looking to do the same thing with that useless pocket
I have been wanting to do a rear locker for awhile now myself. prefer going with air, but, reading all the leak problems, I try to avoid the though.
As I haven't seen/experience any lockers w/air setup, knowing exactly how the component engages in there with the line. For instance, when engaging, does the line move with the system? And if so, this would contribute to the line creating leaks at the fitting, or lightly touching moving parts.
And if it does move with the system, to help with pipe staying out of the way, and less movement in the mounting area, wouldn't be wise to have a mounting bracket stabilizing the copper line?
Your picture is bringing these questions out, and Austins reply also.







For the stereo to run without the ignition on you'll have to run a separate fused line from the aux battery to tap into the main power line on the stereo with an on off switch. Then, you'll have to add a diode to the original positive line so that when you use the aux power it doesn't run power back down to the ignition.
For extra lights, you can just wire straight to the aux battery with a fuse and switch. If you want to run extra high power lights, you can use a solenoid instead of running the hot lines to the switch. Same goes for any accessories. I'm lazy so I run hot lines to the switch unless its a really powerful draw.
You need to run two lines to the solenoid. One from the ignition with an inline diode and one from the aux battery with an inline switch. That way the solenoid kicks on when you start the car or when you flip the switch.
You have to dremel the factory switch holes to fit oversized switches...