Fedrlbiker Build Thread

[jediwebdude]

Glad you did the side hoops on your new CBI. That's my only regret. I may have Josh/BaerTrax fab some on.

So you're not into beta testing alternators? ;-)

Seriously though, I have considered upgrading my alt, but not sure I want to do the install myself.

 

[fedrlbiker]

Glad you did the side hoops on your new CBI. That's my only regret. I may have Josh/BaerTrax fab some on.

So you're not into beta testing alternators? ;-)

Seriously though, I have considered upgrading my alt, but not sure I want to do the install myself.

I have to say, I'm a little frustrated with a couple aspects of the bumper. One it follows the factory bumper line so I rubbed it on full compression. Paying that much for aftermarket, you would think I'd gain some more clearance. Second, and similarly, the sides are as low as the frame... I think it would make more sense to angle slightly up and away from the frame for my clearance on the corners. Unfortunately, CBI is the only game in town for the rear. I attempted to buy from Relentless and they couldn't return a phone call or email to give me any confidence in their company.

 

[fedrlbiker]

Here is the video from our trip to Bridgeport. Both diffs should be home from the shop on Friday.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0gHoApx7u0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[BigRogers]

4:10's end up fitting?

 

[fedrlbiker]

4:10's end up fitting?

No go on the 4.10's. Josh said he won't install used gears. Apparent if they are setup exactly the same as original, the new wear pattern will cause them to start flaking.

 

[BigRogers]

What are you going with instead?

 

[fedrlbiker]

What are you going with instead?

I figured if I'm going to take this build seriously, now is the time to make it happen so I got 4.56 Nitro gears and a rear ARB locker.

 

[aha2988]

I figured if I'm going to take this build seriously, now is the time to make it happen so I got 4.56 Nitro gears and a rear ARB locker.

make sure you add in a solid pinion spacer or you'll wind up in the same boat, the crush spacer that the factory uses allows to much pinion deflection in high torque load situations. It's a 20 dollar life saver well diff saver.

 

[fedrlbiker]

make sure you add in a solid pinion spacer or you'll wind up in the same boat, the crush spacer that the factory uses allows to much pinion deflection in high torque load situations. It's a 20 dollar life saver well diff saver.

They will be rebuilt with solid spacers.

This has been an expensive week. Don't tell the wife, but I just ordered a full set of Aluminun RCI Skids using the 20% March sale. Looking forward to the Lonestar Toyota Jamboree in May!

 

[jediwebdude]

They will be rebuilt with solid spacers.

This has been an expensive week. Don't tell the wife, but I just ordered a full set of Aluminun RCI Skids using the 20% March sale. Looking forward to the Lonestar Toyota Jamboree in May!

Did you go with stainless steel on the RCI? If so, we'll be twinkies at Jambo.

 

[fedrlbiker]

Did you go with stainless steel on the RCI? If so, we'll be twinkies at Jambo.

Stainless? I didn't see that option, but no, I went with aluminum. I'm already pushing too much weight!

 

[jediwebdude]

Stainless? I didn't see that option, but no, I went with aluminum. I'm already pushing too much weight!

Sorry...I should clarify. I went with aluminum, but unpainted. It looks like stainless steel, but isn't.

 

[fedrlbiker]

Well, she got all put back together last weekend and is in the break-in process for the new gears. I can't remember who it was, but I think [MENTION=65653]aha2988[/MENTION] mentioned having trouble with his rear ARB copper routing. Anyway, I took a picture to show how Baertrax routed mine. They are an extremely knowledgeable and active Toyota shop here in Dallas so I have to imagine they've done one or a hundred of these on the Toyota 8" rear...

Also, here's a photo our at Bridgeport before "the incident".

And finally, here is the link to the video a friend shot throughout the day. The hill in the final clips is the one that took her down. Such a stupid obstacle to happen on!

Bridgeport Northwest OHV park Toyota 4Runner 3-15-14 - YouTube

The first climb in the video was pretty tough. The tacoma in our group tried it first and spent 15 minutes before giving up. I finally found the better line and was the first one to clear it. Afterwards, the rest of our group made it following the same approach.

 

[aha2988]

That copper line route looks legit to me, ECGS sent mine with it routed over the top rear, stay at the 2 oclock position if you were looking at it from the driver side (left side in your picture orientation). Allowing the rear top area of the axle housing to push it into the ring gear. I didnt have enough length with what they gave me to really adjust it much. After tearing it a couple times and brassing leaks back shut I finally ordered a new seal housing with a new copper line an attemped a different route. Hopefully the way I routed it will stay put but I'll certainly look back to this picture if it doesnt lol. Thanks for grabbing that image from them.

 

[fedrlbiker]

Finally installed my Viair system and hooked up the rear locker. This was an all day project, but I'm very happy with it. The air tank is in the spare tire location. I cut out the old tire lift / mount to make room. I don't remember where I saw this mounting for switches, but I love how clean it is. A very tight squeeze getting everything in, but worth the headache. I'll clean up the gauge bezel later with a paint pen.

 

[TxBxSx]

Truck is looking good. I like the hide away air control department! The front bumper looks much better with the gap from the body lift closed up too.

 

[sethro]

Where did you get those battery terminals and Aux battery tray from?
Thanks
Seth

Well things have been crazy lately, but I finally got some work done yesterday. Finished up the dual battery install and finally installed so much needed extra outlets. I also decided to make them constant hot from the auxiliary battery also so they'll be useful when on trips.

Another note, the gauge pod that I ordered did not fit as stated. Lo-Tek didn't seem to know why it didn't fit saying, "Maybe it's different than the Tacoma..." Damn it! Why wouldn't they test this crap before stating what it will fit and selling it? Still waiting on a resolution from them and I have the gauges waiting on an installation location now...

Anyway, on to pictures of the dual battery setup. Note that I did not install inline fuses. I still may, but I wasn't happy with my options at the moment and didn't want to wait any longer. Before anyone says anything about not having split loom on the back wire, know the wire I used has almost a 1/4" housing.

Still working on mounting the new lights, but I thought I'd go ahead and fill the switch positions anyway.

New 12v outlet under my iPhone mount. Now I can use a retractable charging cord and have it tucked away nice and neat at all times. I originally planned to add two outlets here, but there is a bunch of plastic I didn't want to cut away to fit the second one on the right site under the mount.

Instead... After taking apart the passenger glove box and panels to route wires, I decided to add the spare outlet into the hidden compartment. It'll work well for iPods or other stuff I want to leave charging, but be hidden out of sight.

 

[sr3tlaw]

lookin good

Im using the solonied for my dual battery setup. I have everything in place but I'm getting lost on how i should hook up the battery switch. I want my stereo and light's etc running off the deep cycle upon igintion but also want an override switch that enables my fuse box when ignition is off. What should this be looking like?

Also,
In detail, could you explain how to make those switches fit in the oem location


Thanks bros

 

[fedrlbiker]

Where did you get those battery terminals and Aux battery tray from?
Thanks
Seth

Battery terminals came from Amazon... The tray I just bought at Autozone.

 

[fedrlbiker]

Im using the solonied for my dual battery setup. I have everything in place but I'm getting lost on how i should hook up the battery switch. I want my stereo and light's etc running off the deep cycle upon igintion but also want an override switch that enables my fuse box when ignition is off. What should this be looking like?

Also,
In detail, could you explain how to make those switches fit in the oem location


Thanks bros

For the stereo to run without the ignition on you'll have to run a separate fused line from the aux battery to tap into the main power line on the stereo with an on off switch. Then, you'll have to add a diode to the original positive line so that when you use the aux power it doesn't run power back down to the ignition.

For extra lights, you can just wire straight to the aux battery with a fuse and switch. If you want to run extra high power lights, you can use a solenoid instead of running the hot lines to the switch. Same goes for any accessories. I'm lazy so I run hot lines to the switch unless its a really powerful draw.

You need to run two lines to the solenoid. One from the ignition with an inline diode and one from the aux battery with an inline switch. That way the solenoid kicks on when you start the car or when you flip the switch.

You have to dremel the factory switch holes to fit oversized switches...