Final word on RTT on stock roof rails.

[mwslax]

I'm using all factory parts that came on it. My tent is bolted to the factory black cross-members that go sideways.

I did use shorter bolts from Ace Hardware as the SmittyBilt bolts would have put holes in my roof, but other than that, what came on the 4Runner when you bought it should be more than enough.

Excellent. Thank you for the clarification.

 

[4runr4eva]

Im trying to attach my Tepui tent directly to the side rails but I’m having a hard time tightening the inside bolts of the brackets. Any tips? I don’t plan to keep the tent attached so hoping I can figure out an easier way to install and remove it.

I was thinking something like this might make the set-up/removal easier. I dont have a RTT to test it on, but if I did, I would try something like these. (This would only work on rounded cross bars)


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AU13H9E/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=A345OSUWOYF1PV&psc=1

 

[Primarytarget]

Just got done mounting a smitybilt xl on stock cross bars. It can be done! It did require bending lower mount brackets and some hard rubber spacers, but it got done. I would suggest higher than stock cross bars for access for tightening. Hope this helps someone who is planning the same

 

[Woodscritter]

I'd bypass the crossbars altogether, attach directly to the side rails if possible.. I know some rtt's require horizontal bars though.

Any issues with the bolts cutting into your paint?

 

[adaml]

Any issues with the bolts cutting into your paint?

When I mounted my first tent directly to the roof rails, one of the bolts did end up wearing a slight semi-circle through the paint and that did eventually start to rust a little. It all could have been avoided by using slightly shorter bolts though. However, if I could do it over again, I'd spend a little bit more money and just get a pair of Thule/Yakima crossbars to mount it to. It makes it a lot easier to take it off if you need to AND you can actually clean underneath it.

FWIW, I ran a number of different tents all on the stock rails (but not stock bars).

 

[JSparky]

Any issues with the bolts cutting into your paint?

It was awhile ago so I’d have to look back on exactly what setup I was running, but practically speaking no, I wouldn’t have installed the tent with bolts that would be contacting the paint. You want a good 1/4” on anything like this to compensate for body/frame flexing when off-road, maybe less of an issue on the roof, but a good general rule.

Every manufacturer likely uses different sized hardware, specific to each tent and general application. The brackets themselves may also be proprietary. That said, the actual nuts and bolts should be standardized in metric or sae, meaning you can swap the included hardware out for shorter/longer bits as needed.

Installing aftermarket crossbars isn’t a bad idea, but it will raise the overall positioning of the tent above the roof. I like to keep things as low as possible, so the trade off of a few extra minutes to install the tent was more valuable to me than raising it another inch or two above the roof. It also saves $$.

Importantly, I also knew an aftermarket rack was in my future. If it wasn’t, the Thule/Yakima crossbar option may represent a better value.

I’ve since gone to a Front Runner, then back to a Gobi Stealth like I had on my last 5th gen. Overall it’s the best system for me, but there are other confounders at play aside from the tent.

For a stock rack, it makes the most sense (to me) to save the money spent on aftermarket crossbars and install the tent directly to the rails. A few bucks on shorter bolts is money well spent. If you’re installing and uninstalling the tent frequently then perhaps the crossbars make sense. That’s your call. Hope that helps!

 

[adaml]

It was awhile ago so I’d have to look back on exactly what setup I was running, but practically speaking no, I wouldn’t have installed the tent with bolts that would be contacting the paint. You want a good 1/4” on anything like this to compensate for body/frame flexing when off-road, maybe less of an issue on the roof, but a good general rule.

Every manufacturer likely uses different sized hardware, specific to each tent and general application. The brackets themselves may also be proprietary. That said, the actual nuts and bolts should be standardized in metric or sae, meaning you can swap the included hardware out for shorter/longer bits as needed.

Installing aftermarket crossbars isn’t a bad idea, but it will raise the overall positioning of the tent above the roof. I like to keep things as low as possible, so the trade off of a few extra minutes to install the tent was more valuable to me than raising it another inch or two above the roof. It also saves $$.

Importantly, I also knew an aftermarket rack was in my future. If it wasn’t, the Thule/Yakima crossbar option may represent a better value.

I’ve since gone to a Front Runner, then back to a Gobi Stealth like I had on my last 5th gen. Overall it’s the best system for me, but there are other confounders at play aside from the tent.

For a stock rack, it makes the most sense (to me) to save the money spent on aftermarket crossbars and install the tent directly to the rails. A few bucks on shorter bolts is money well spent. If you’re installing and uninstalling the tent frequently then perhaps the crossbars make sense. That’s your call. Hope that helps!

All sound advice but I'll add that it will also depend on the tent itself. The only ones I'm aware of that you can mount straight to the rails are the 2 person soft shell tents. I was able to do it with a Tepui Kukenam but not with a CVT Rainier or any of the hardshells I had.