Finally Front Disco's That Work

[MStudt]

I'd also like people to NOT us the jam nut, and 1 of the washers from the lower heim. I started sending these out with my GB, but after seeing pictures they might have caused some of the contact issues. Ditching those 2 pieces, and snugging the heim joint to sway bar shohuld give you clearance. Just put the heim through the sway bar, then a washer, and then the nut. Nothing else needs to be there, and you should gain 3/8".

 

[codyHTX]

I'd also like people to NOT us the jam nut, and 1 of the washers from the lower heim. I started sending these out with my GB, but after seeing pictures they might have caused some of the contact issues. Ditching those 2 pieces, and snugging the heim joint to sway bar shohuld give you clearance. Just put the heim through the sway bar, then a washer, and then the nut. Nothing else needs to be there, and you should gain 3/8".

from my install experience removing the jam nut and adjacent washer seems like a must to A) get clearance for initial installation and B) to avoid contact between the links lower heim and spindle when the suspension droops.

I am interested to see the new pins, removing the jam nut and adjacent washer moves the pin closer to the sway bar itself. So hopefully a good portion of the reduction in pin length is between the circlip and the outer ring used to pull the pin out, as this is the long part that contacts the sway bar.

may look into this sway bar relocation bracket as well. i see how it would give you a little better clearance with the spindles by moving it down and forward slightly.
Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits| Front Swaybar Relocate Kit for '10+ FJ Cruiser & '10+ 4Run

thanks for the continued effort [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]

 

[MStudt]

I am interested to see the new pins, removing the jam nut and adjacent washer moves the pin closer to the sway bar itself.

Here's a link to the pins. The pins only need to be a hair over 3/4", and these come in at .8". So those should do the trick.

 

[green_manalishi]

I installed the rear discos this past weekend on my 4th gen. I will be honest and say that for me, it took some time to get them what I'd consider just right. That being, they don't make any noise, still disconnect AND re-connect fairly easy, and don't come into contact with the LCA when they are connected and the 4runner is flexed. The sway bar moving around while disconnected does make some noise but that is to be expected. I may come up with something to put over the ends of the sway bar to help keep it quiet. I'm not running a long-travel suspension (not yet anyway) so improvement on flex was minimal, which was also expected.



As for the front discos, first run was a no-go but [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] has been helpful in giving advice to some of my issues. Turns out my 4th gens sway bar is a lot closer to the passenger side steering knuckle (aka spindle) than most. I feel this is due to my current alignment settings ( over 4* of caster), the fact that the sway bar is not relocated forward and normal manufacturing tolerance. Either way, as of now, those discos will not work for my 4th gen. I may try to re-install Friday following some advice from MStudt or I may wait and try to find a cheap sway bar relocation kit that I can buy or borrow. Who knows, maybe I'll just make one if I have time. Honestly, it may be a while before I can revisit these but I will post my findings either way.

It's not just you. The front disco's won't fit with my 4th gen, either. [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] any ideas? The clearance just isn't there.

I only have 2 degrees caster, by the way.

 

[MStudt]

It's not just you. The front disco's won't fit with my 4th gen, either. [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] any ideas? The clearance just isn't there.

I only have 2 degrees caster, by the way.

Washer needs to come off. Guys this only works with the jam nut, and washer off. I was mentioned above a couple time. The only other difference was the relocation kit. Which was also mentioned in my main sway bar link thread. I stated that running a relocation kit is recommended.

Mike

 

[codyHTX]

Here's a link to the pins. The pins only need to be a hair over 3/4", and these come in at .8". So those should do the trick.

thanks for the link, these looks promising. (will you be shipping out replacements to us?)
i took measurements of the old pins to compare to the measurements of the new pins. (comparison pics attached)

with a minimum pin protrusion of 0.75" to securely fit thru the link shaft and collar this means the overall reduction in potential excess length is the old pins unusable length + the difference in excess usable length = 0.50" + (0.25"-0.05") = 0.70"

so while the usable length is 1/4" shorter for the new pins the overall reduction to pin length is nearly 3/4". i believe this will be a sufficient enuff reduction to eliminate the sway bar contact.

it's early, someone check my math to make sure i'm seeing this right. (didn't factor in the extra length where the pull-ring passes thru the pin because they cancel each other out.

 

[MStudt]

thanks for the link, these looks promising. (will you be shipping out replacements to us?)
i took measurements of the old pins to compare to the measurements of the new pins. (comparison pics attached)

with a minimum pin protrusion of 0.75" to securely fit thru the link shaft and collar this means the overall reduction in potential excess length is the old pins unusable length + the difference in excess usable length = 0.50" + (0.25"-0.05") = 0.70"

so while the usable length is 1/4" shorter for the new pins the overall reduction to pin length is nearly 3/4". i believe this will be a sufficient enuff reduction to eliminate the sway bar contact.

it's early, someone check my math to make sure i'm seeing this right. (didn't factor in the extra length where the pull-ring passes thru the pin because they cancel each other out.

You're going to reduce the length by almost 3/4" due to not having the collar on the pin. I have some coming in today. Shoot me a PM, and I can get 2 out.

Mike

 

[green_manalishi]

[MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION], installed the sway bar relocate and everything is gravy! I also added some prothane bushings which allow for an additional 1/2" of forward adjustment.

Connected

Disconnected

No rattling whatsoever when connected. Thanks again!

 

[MStudt]

[MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION], installed the sway bar relocate and everything is gravy! I also added some prothane bushings which allow for an additional 1/2" of forward adjustment.

No rattling whatsoever when connected. Thanks again!

Glad they worked out for you!

Mike

 

[BLACK-FL4RUNNER]

You might want to get a different style of pin. That one in the picture might work it's way out. The bar assembly can and will rotate a little when connected, and looks like it could un clip that style pin!
:lookout:

Glad yours don't make any noise, I think one side of mine has a little play between the heim and the aluminum collar.

 

[green_manalishi]

You might want to get a different style of pin. That one in the picture might work it's way out. The bar assembly can and will rotate a little when connected, and looks like it could un clip that style pin!

:lookout:



Glad yours don't make any noise, I think one side of mine has a little play between the heim and the aluminum collar.

I thought about that, but I really don't think it will happen. I just don't see the bar assembly getting that much torque. These appear to be the same pins as in the original FJ pictures, and I doubt Mike would include them if there had ever been a previous incident.

 

[MStudt]

I thought about that, but I really don't think it will happen. I just don't see the bar assembly getting that much torque. These appear to be the same pins as in the original FJ pictures, and I doubt Mike would include them if there had ever been a previous incident.

I use those pins on my other links, and they don't fall apart. For these I have changed to shorter pins though. If you notice a problem with those let me know, and I can get you the other pins. An FJ person showed me some bent pins, but it's not from failure. I think the pins bent from hitting the spindle, and the shorter one won't contact anything.

Mike

 

[BLACK-FL4RUNNER]

One of my pins spun around and wedged itself into the sway bar itself. And that was after a short 1 hour drive... :noidea:

 

[dkyleb]

Had to fiddle with mine to get them to go. Probably wouldn't have got them on if I didn't have my spindle disconnected from my UCA, which I was installing at the moment.

So then I rednecked them in there with a ratchet strap.

So yeah, then I found this thread and noticed everyone is having trouble with theirs. Great... So what's the deal? Do I need to pull these out or what? Got a big trip coming up in 8 days.

 

[BLACK-FL4RUNNER]

You probably needed the ratchet strap because your UCA's were not completely installed yet, That, or, you didn't remove both stock sway bar links before installing the new ones. Either way, glad you got them in.

On a side note.... Are those the cheap Ebay UCA's that I see in your pic? How do you like them? Are they shipping with good hardware and bushings now? I'm interested in those. lol

 

[codyHTX]

So yeah, then I found this thread and noticed everyone is having trouble with theirs. Great... So what's the deal? Do I need to pull these out or what? Got a big trip coming up in 8 days.

the pins for the front are a bit long due to the circlip and can rotate into the sway bar and basically get guillotined at the circlip, look a few pages back and you'll see my post with some pics of the pin and how the link shaft can rotate.

Mstudt is working on getting new pins out, he linked them a few pages back and i tried to do a comparison of the 2 pins, looks like it should fix that issue. Additionally, I will be purchasing sway bar relocation brackets to avoid contact between the spindle and lower heim when suspension droops and some more robust crimp collars to make sure the sway bar can not shift left and right before i reinstall mine.

 

[dkyleb]

the pins for the front are a bit long due to the circlip and can rotate into the sway bar and basically get guillotined at the circlip, look a few pages back and you'll see my post with some pics of the pin and how the link shaft can rotate.

Mstudt is working on getting new pins out, he linked them a few pages back and i tried to do a comparison of the 2 pins, looks like it should fix that issue. Additionally, I will be purchasing sway bar relocation brackets to avoid contact between the spindle and lower heim when suspension droops and some more robust crimp collars to make sure the sway bar can not shift left and right before i reinstall mine.

Thank you for your reply.

I live in an industrial area, and would probably be able to source this pin locally. While I'm at it, I'm going to search for a way to retain the sway bar. I don't have time to wait for shipping from two different places.

Has Mike explained why these links are shorter than the stock ones?

I'd also like people to NOT us the jam nut, and 1 of the washers from the lower heim. I started sending these out with my GB, but after seeing pictures they might have caused some of the contact issues. Ditching those 2 pieces, and snugging the heim joint to sway bar shohuld give you clearance. Just put the heim through the sway bar, then a washer, and then the nut. Nothing else needs to be there, and you should gain 3/8".

Should I be doing this? I don't appear to be having any clearance issues? Although, I do have the sway bar relocate and after market UCAs. Caster has not yet been adjusted though.

 

[MStudt]

Should I be doing this? I don't appear to be having any clearance issues? Although, I do have the sway bar relocate and after market UCAs. Caster has not yet been adjusted though.

I still don't think you should use them. They were tested without them, and worked just fine that way. Plus I know you won't have any issues with them like that. The caster shouldn't cause an issue with them.

Mike

 

[dkyleb]

I still don't think you should use them. They were tested without them, and worked just fine that way. Plus I know you won't have any issues with them like that. The caster shouldn't cause an issue with them.

Mike

Why should I be removing them? What will it prevent? Itll give the pin more to rotate?

I already have one side in, just about to install the other. Do I absolutely need to pull that jam nut off or what?

 

[MStudt]

Why should I be removing them? What will it prevent? Itll give the pin more to rotate?

I already have one side in, just about to install the other. Do I absolutely need to pull that jam nut off or what?

If you have the clearance to run them with the jam nut then go for it. Just as long as you have the run. Of course if it's too close then you can remove them, and be fine.

Mike