First Oil Change and Lube

ZO6_Vette

Member
Changed the oil today at 1350 miles using 0w20 Toyota oil and a TRD PTR43-00079 filter and have some rants and comments.

What a pain in to do a simple oil change, the cartridge is really no issue just all the bolts and clips on the covers.

What is with the drain for the filter cartridge? Is that really necessary?
My corolla does not have it.

End Rant!

After removing the filter element you should wash out the cartridge housing.

I found when reinstalling the cartridge bottom drain plug it is simpler to do it off the car, just lube the o-ring lay it in the groove and screw the plug on hand tight. You can torque it later after the filter housing is screwed in.

From the factory both o-rings had grease in the groves that they sit in.
Don't know why the factory does that.

Greasing the drive shaft I found two different greases were used and they match the owners manual. Regular grease in the u-joints and moly fortified in the slip yoke.

I always change the oil early the first time to remove most of the metal that is floating in the oil.


Well there's my story.
 
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It's a good story except your Toyota engine has already been ran,tested, drained and the oil changed before you got it. No metal shavings floating anywhere. Specific gravity and Physics laws prevent that anyway lol.
 
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It's a good story except your Toyota engine has already been ran,tested, drained and the oil changed before you got it. No metal shavings floating anywhere.
I was wondering about this actually. If this is true, I won't be going in for early service. Intervals calls for every 8,000km and that's what the dealer wrote on my windshield sticker for "next service."
 
When I did my first oil change at 5k miles there were a very few tiny sparkly particles in the bottom of the filter housing.

I have changed oil every 5k miles, and just did my 35k mile change and have never seen any more particles of any kind in the housing since the first time.
 
The last 4 new vehicles I have owned in the past 20 years have all had small amounts of metal shavings present at the first oil change. Unless Toyota is doing something magically different with the '13 4Runners, I expect to find something similar at my first oil change (performed ahead of the first scheduled dealer change). Not sure why you wouldn't perform the initial oil change early outside of cost.
 
A few tiny particles trapped in the filter housing probably would not cause too much harm right? I mean after all it is sitting in the filter housing and not floating around, so it seems like the filter did it's job :)
 
It's a good story except your Toyota engine has already been ran,tested, drained and the oil changed before you got it. No metal shavings floating anywhere. Specific gravity and Physics laws prevent that anyway lol.

Not true both my Corolla and 4runner had metal shavings in the oil filter.

Next time you buy a new Toyota send a oil sample to be tested and see for yourself.
 
Modern engines are surprisingly free of metal shavings at their first oil change nowadays. Especially if you're used to the "old school" engines from back in the day.

The piston rings still have to wear a bit to get a robust seal to the cylinder, and some engines are designed to scuff the piston skirt a little in the beginning but it's not like the old days. Those old engines were "self-machining" (a euphemism, if there ever was one). The tolerances of modern engines is pretty amazing by those standards. There's very little metal to metal contact anymore, both for efficiency and durability reasons.

I get that these forums are populated with car guys (and girls). But don't sweat the small stuff, even the worst manufacturers these days are making pretty damn good vehicles. You may or may not like them, but the quality is pretty high, by historical standards.

PS- For all the hypochondriacs: that piece of metal that you found in the filter? That's not the one you have to worry about.
 
A few tiny particles trapped in the filter housing probably would not cause too much harm right? I mean after all it is sitting in the filter housing and not floating around, so it seems like the filter did it's job :)

Correct, the filter did what it was designed to do. Since I have not ever found any more particles after the first 5k oil change, I have to assume that these were from engine break in and were all deposited there before 5k miles.

So it would not really matter if you went the full 10k on the first oil change, because the particles are still in the bottom of the housing upstream of the filter element. Just clean them out at the 10k oil change.

I am still struggling with the idea of 10k oil change intervals, I almost decided to try one last time, but when I got to 35k miles I chickened out and went ahead and changed it at 5k.

It took me years to go to 5k change intervals. When I first got the job that I have now, I was still using conventional oil and doing changes every 2k miles. That ended up with me changing oil every other weekend. So I finally decided to switch to synthetic and extend to 5k intervals. Now I can go five or six weeks between changes.
 
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Correct, the filter did what it was designed to do. Since I have not ever found any more particles after the first 5k oil change, I have to assume that these were from engine break in and were all deposited there before 5k miles.

So it would not really matter if you went the full 10k on the first oil change, because the particles are still in the bottom of the housing upstream of the filter element. Just clean them out at the 10k oil change.

I am still struggling with the idea of 10k oil change intervals, I almost decided to try one last time, but when I got to 35k miles I chickened out and went ahead and changed it at 5k.

It took me years to go to 5k change intervals. When I first got the job that I have now, I was still using conventional oil and doing changes every 2k miles. That ended up with me changing oil every other weekend. So I finally decided to switch to synthetic and extend to 5k intervals. Now I can go five or six weeks between changes.
holy-crap-on-a-cracker is that a lot of miles. :eek:
 
Changed the oil today at 1350 miles using 0w20 Toyota oil and a TRD PTR43-00079 filter and have some rants and comments.

What a pain in to do a simple oil change, the cartridge is really no issue just all the bolts and clips on the covers.

What is with the drain for the filter cartridge? Is that really necessary?
My corolla does not have it.

End Rant!

After removing the filter element you should wash out the cartridge housing.

I found when reinstalling the cartridge bottom drain plug it is simpler to do it off the car, just lube the o-ring lay it in the groove and screw the plug on hand tight. You can torque it later after the filter housing is screwed in.

From the factory both o-rings had grease in the groves that they sit in.
Don't know why the factory does that.

Greasing the drive shaft I found two different greases were used and they match the owners manual. Regular grease in the u-joints and moly fortified in the slip yoke.

I always change the oil early the first time to remove most of the metal that is floating in the oil.


Well there's my story.

You should have Toyota care on that thing... 2year 25k so why wouldnt you just make the shop do it for free?
 
I have changed all my new vehicles oil at 2000 miles over the years regardless, motorcycles even earlier at 500 miles. There is always still metal shavings in yes, not enough to harm anything really but still enough I like to get out, among other reasons.

Another thing to keep in mind on you're new vehicle is when it was manufactured. Say by the time the car was made and sat on the lot it is already a year old when you buy it. It varies, but some don't put a lot of miles on their vehicles annually. It took me 3+ years to put 10,000 miles on my Tundra. So imagine if I followed the technical "maint program" how damn old that oil would have been. (just to note, it had 3 oil changes in that time frame)

After I get them past my first oil change I stick with 5000 miles or every year, which ever comes first.

(also a tip, Fumoto valves on everything make life a lot easier, they are installed on my 1st oil change always)
 
I also do my first oil change at 1k on all of the vehicles that we've purchased. Its piece of mind knowing that there are no shavings in the oil. I know it wont do any harm but oil isn't expensive.
 
You should have Toyota care on that thing... 2year 25k so why wouldnt you just make the shop do it for free?

I always change the oil early the first time around on every car I have owned.

The dealer is not going to do it at 1k to 2k for free.

Second it is 30 minutes going and 30 minutes back plus the hour waiting,
I don't mind doing it as its just another of our five cars that requires service. Plus the dog comes out and helps.
 
Does anyone know what kind of oil is in the thing from the factory? Synthetic or non?

I've always worked on the premise of changing conventional oil every 3000 miles until the engine is broken in at 12K then I switch to synthetic. Because synthetic is so slick, if your engine is not broken in, the synthetic will blow past the rings. Likewise, you should not put synthetic in a high mileage engine because it will clean out all of the strategically placed crud keeping the engine from using oil and it will become an oil burner, probably with the oil blowing past the seals.

Use of synthetic oil in a properly broken in engine should result in no appreciable wear in the moving parts.

Now, manufacturing processes have improved and they're coming from the factory with 20W, makes me wonder if they're not using synthetic from the get go. Anyone know?
 
The way I understand it, is all the fluid oils are synthetic. Even the tranny according to my manual doesn't need service till 120k miles. And first oil changes not due till 10k. I'll be doing my first oil change at 5k then after that may go the full 10k.
 
The way I understand it, is all the fluid oils are synthetic. Even the tranny according to my manual doesn't need service till 120k miles. And first oil changes not due till 10k. I'll be doing my first oil change at 5k then after that may go the full 10k.

90% of the posters in this thread need to read this http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/109588-oil-change-0w20-wtf.html thread. There are some good arguments and information in there. Read it then get back here with any questions. I would re-write it but after countless arguments from those ill prepared to debate and relying on their local service station hearsay I apparently don't know anything about this subject. I mean, how do you fight the argument "Piece of Mind" and "It's Cheap Insurance?" Never mind that every time you break into a closed system such as engine lubrication, braking system, fuel system and transmission you quite possibly introduce more abrasive contaminants yourself. And for those of you that "see" metal shavings and are concerned you know absolutely nothing about contaminants. Here is an excerpt from a technical article written by someone who actually knows something:

"TECHNICAL DISCUSSION:
Some Contaminants Cause More Damage
The level of damage particles cause to an engine
is directly related to the size of the particles. The
oil stream within the en
gine flows between wear-
sensitive surfaces that usually have clearances
between 2 and 22 microns. It is contaminants in
this size range that pose the greatest threat as they
can slip between moving components, causing a
great deal of wear.
To appreciate how small these particles are, one
must first understand th
e measurements involved
in their classification.
A micron, or micrometer (μ), is a very small unit
of linear measurement. One micron is equal to
one millionth of a meter, and 25 microns is equal
to 0.001 inch. To better put
this in perspective,
consider that the diameter
of a human hair is 50 -
70 microns.
Large particles
are particles measuring 1/2” or
larger. They pose little threat to engines because
they are easily removed by the air filter.
Medium particles
are particles measuring 25μ to
1/2”. While they are of greater concern than large
particles because they are more difficult to re-
move, the threat they pos
e is diminished since
they are still larger than
many of the clearances
within an engine. Their size will not allow them
to enter the contact areas between many compo-
nents to promote accelerated wear.
Small particles
are particles measuring between
5 and 25μ. Small particles
are of greatest concern
because they can penetrate the clearances between
wear-sensitive components and promote acceler-
ated wear. And, because they are so small, they
are difficult to remove from the oil stream.
SAE Testing
In the 1988 Correlating Lube
Oil Filtration Effi-
ciencies With Engine Wear technical paper pub-
lished by the Society of
Automotive Engineers
(SAE), the relationship between filtration levels
and abrasive engine wear was established. Testing
determined that wear was reduced by as much as
70 percent by switching from
a 40μ filter to a 15μ
filter.
The SAE conducted tests on a heavy-duty diesel
engine and an automotive gasoline engine, and
both provided consis
tent results. "

Let me know if you see any particles around 5-10 microns in size. These are the particles that will do the most damage to engine. Unfortunately 50 micron is the width of a human hair so you really have to look closely. The metal shavings you see are completely harmless because they are not going to be circulated because of their mass.

Now, how small is the particles that do damage? You are breathing them right now. Changing your oil on a windy day in your driveway? You probably put more particles IN your system than you removed because you opened the system in a terrible environment with all the dust blowing around that you can't see.

If you guys REALLY care about your engine you would research oil FILTERS and particle size filtration and get the best one possible. Not all filters are equal! BTW some bacteria are around 3 microns in size, just for prospective.

I don't mean to single the quoted poster out. I have no argument with you or anyone here. It just really gets on my last nerve when someone posts nonsense with absolutely no science to back up his/her claim. Please, do a little research before you speak. If you have a technical question ask away! I will try to help and if I can't, I will consult some of my colleagues, some of whom actually develop synthetic oil blends.

For what it's worth I know a little something about this subject as I have been designing systems for the past 25 years. With that little tidbit of knowledge I have my oil changed every 10K miles, just as the Toyota Engineers suggest, in a shop with closed doors. Rant over. Read the link above.
 

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