From my understanding, and correct me if I'm wrong, lumens isn't the best measurement for light bars. Candela measures the visible intensity from the light source, basically, how intense is the light when it falls upon your target. Lumens measure total light given off, but that's from the source. So, when you have the light mounted on top of your roof, are you more concerned with how much light is being generated at the LED, or with how much light actually hits your target? That's why you'll find many of the cheaper LED able to seem like they're roughly the same as your expensive brands (Baja, Rigid, etc). Sure, the LEDs may emit similar amounts of light, but how is it being thrown? The lenses and reflectors themselves play a huge role in light transmission, and by paying more, you're getting lenses that have higher transmission amounts. I have an engineer friend at Rigid who explained it to me, I wish I could explain it as well as he did.
For Those Looking for a LED Light Bar
- Thread starter Cymon
- Start date
Lumens vs. Watts
Cymon is correct. Watts are a measurement of power and lumens of actual light output. Think of a regular household incandescent 100W bulb. Very bright of course. However, a newer LED version of the same bulb with same output only draws 10W. This is one of the major reasons LED light bars came about anyways because you are right, the KC Daylighter used to be unbeatable. Although, you couldn't run too many of them because they drew too much power. LED light bars, however, draw much less power for the same light output, therefore creating larger horizons in terms of available light output. I say all this to say that wattage really has no effect on light output. Lumens, although definitely not perfect, is the best way to compare light output.
Cymon is correct. Watts are a measurement of power and lumens of actual light output. Think of a regular household incandescent 100W bulb. Very bright of course. However, a newer LED version of the same bulb with same output only draws 10W. This is one of the major reasons LED light bars came about anyways because you are right, the KC Daylighter used to be unbeatable. Although, you couldn't run too many of them because they drew too much power. LED light bars, however, draw much less power for the same light output, therefore creating larger horizons in terms of available light output. I say all this to say that wattage really has no effect on light output. Lumens, although definitely not perfect, is the best way to compare light output.
Sig_Fan_55
New member
I actually just grabbed some flat steel and bent it in a vice to the measurements that made it the right hight. It mounts to the upper radiator/bumper support bar.
On a side note I didn't even click the link until just now and saw how cheap they are going for!!! I paid $200 for the 32" so this is an awesome deal.
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fastboarder
New member
Problem is many of these generic light bars are becoming like cheap car stereo amplifiers 2000W for $23.99 at the flea market while a 500W Alpine will cost $450.
In addition some of them will say Cree or Philips LEDs while in fact they are knockoff or counterfeit LEDs. I work in the manufacturing portion of electronics in China and we also build LED lighting, have actually built for Cree previously. Run into it all the time. This is why I tend to look at the reviews on Amazon carefully as they really tend to be the only feedback mechanism we have access to before purchasing the generic bars.
As for the big guys putting lumens it is a very measurable characteristic and a good indicator of what the a fixture is putting out. It is just something we can't easily measure. Just fyi, nothing more.
SteadFAST 4Runner
New member
This would be an awesome test to have, to get a few of these light bars, Opt7, KC, Rigid, and Generic and test them all to see which truly is the brightest.
Rigid has been ripping people off for years,... and now its coming back to bite them because they had china make the light bars and if there is anything the chinese are good at its copying things. Anyone who has been to Hong Kong knows this first hand.
If you had any more details, and/or pictures of this, that'd be great. I'm going to be doing the exact same thing.
Thanks
T4rSilver
New member
fastboarder
New member
FrontRange4Runner
New member
While we're kinda on the subject......driving around in daylight with a 42" light bar on full blast, strapped to an old beater and trying your best to blind oncoming traffic makes you a mega-douche. Hopefully this is just a CO phenomenon because seriously WTF?
Useless rant over, carry on.
Useless rant over, carry on.
Yeah, with their wiring setup it should be pretty simple. I grabbed a couple of the 22" for atv's
Keith_PDX
New member
I've had one of their 32" in my grill for a while now, probably 18 months. No issues, no signs of water intrusion and I live in Oregon. Happy with the amount of light it puts out. Can't argue for the $$.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/219587-cbi-front-receiver-hitch.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/199186-2015-tep-build-complete-now.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/219587-cbi-front-receiver-hitch.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/199186-2015-tep-build-complete-now.html
Cymon
New member
Heck I"m doing it...LOL
Here are some of the many resources I'm using from the helpful folks of this forum...
Hooking up Opt7 Light Bars
[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION]
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/178040-opt7-leds-6.html
Using AOB Switches
Everyone...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/211802-wiring-lightbar-independent-harness-aob-switch.html
Behind the Grill Setup:
[MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION]
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/164966-led-light-bar-install-2014-toyota-4runner.html
How to get through the Firewall:
Everyone....
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/120835-cable-routing-through-firewall.html
[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] (Check the subwoofer install to see how to route through firewall)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92013-antmans-thread-24.html#post989173
the_dude33
New member
Drive north. Apparently every mega douche in Wyoming has upgraded their awful diesel trucks to include multiple light bars that are on constantly. Sorry to hear that this douche disease is widespread.
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Saker
Senior Member
That same mega-douche from CO, as well as his buddies from WO, must have come here because it's the same down south.
WAIT !
There must be a magazine or a forum for the mega-douches that suggests, NO, requires them to do this!
:doh: :faint:
:focus:
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mbumpus11
Member
I have the 32" in my grille and it is absolutely worth the price and a great value. I have had zero issues with it and I've been running it on the front for almost a year now.
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kuh
Member
Only if you've been good.
