Front and Rear Diff fluid change

Came to this post for Diff/T-Case fluid info.. after 21 pages I'm now questioning every fluid in my vehicle including windshield fluid... perhaps I will start a post on that.... One a side note, I see a lot of posts talking about the cost of the OEM oil. I'm not sure if that is a combined cost of 2 liters or not, but Amazon has it @ $32.85 a liter. I can live with that. I will be using OEM in the transfer and Redline in the diffs and will do it @ 55k. I will post my findings because I know everyone here will be waiting with bated breath.

Can anyone recommend a windshield fluid? I'm torn between 7 different ones...
 
Came to this post for Diff/T-Case fluid info.. after 21 pages I'm now questioning every fluid in my vehicle including windshield fluid... perhaps I will start a post on that.... One a side note, I see a lot of posts talking about the cost of the OEM oil. I'm not sure if that is a combined cost of 2 liters or not, but Amazon has it @ $32.85 a liter. I can live with that. I will be using OEM in the transfer and Redline in the diffs and will do it @ 55k. I will post my findings because I know everyone here will be waiting with bated breath.

Can anyone recommend a windshield fluid? I'm torn between 7 different ones...
you didn’t provide a link, but the stuff you see on Amazon for $32.85 a liter is likely the Toyota 75W85 and not the OE 75W for the transfer case.
 
Genuine Toyota ONLY! The generic blue stuff will melt the reservoir and the Rain-X stuff will burn out the pump.

Geez it never ends around here with the mythical OEM BS.

I use green window cleaning concentrate (not the Windex blue stuff) from Home Depot, mix up a gallon and pour it in. 155K miles so far and still on the OEM pump.

I've only had one pump ever go out on a car and that was on a POS Mercedes SLK. Pump was like $20 and a few minutes to replace. Just checked Rockauto and the washer pump for the 4Runner is $12 plus shipping.

It's only a matter of time before we get a post saying to only use OEM gasoline.
 
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Geez it never ends around here with the mythical OEM BS.

I use green window cleaning concentrate (not the Windex blue stuff) from Home Depot, mix up a gallon and pour it in. 155K miles so far and still on the OEM pump.

I've only had one pump ever go out on a car and that was on a POS Mercedes SLK. Pump was like $20 and a few minutes to replace. Just checked Rockauto and the washer pump for the 4Runner is $12 plus shipping.

It's only a matter of time before we get a post saying to only use OEM gasoline.

I think the sarcasm was lost lol he was joking.
 
you didn’t provide a link, but the stuff you see on Amazon for $32.85 a liter is likely the Toyota 75W85 and not the OE 75W for the transfer case.

The cheapest OEM stuff 've found is at Mcgeorge Toyota Parts Online.

$25.95 for 1L of 75W-85 front and rear diff oil, Part Number: 08885-02506. You'll need 5L to cover the front (1.6 quarts) and rear (2.8 quarts)

$57.58 for 1L of 75W transfer case oil, Part Number: 08885-81080. You'll need 2L to cover the 1.1 quarts (part time) to 1.5 quarts (full time).

Of course they'll get you on shipping, but it's still cheaper than Amazon and others. May as well pick up your filler/drain gaskets/washers and your air and cabin air filter at the same time to combine as much as you can in your order.
 
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I changed the transfer case oil for the third time at 153K miles and used the Mobil Delvac 75w90 Synthetic without the LSD so my wife won't be acid tripping out on her drive to Stevensville, MT this weekend. Old oil was Mobil 1 75w90 Synthetic LSD and it came out crystal clear with nothing on the drain plug.

Seriously, compared to my '99 K2500 Suburban Diesel, these Toyota 4Runners are incredibly reliable. If you want to chat with experienced wrenches, hang out on a diesel truck forum and you'll undoubtedly learn a whole lot. On Toyota Forums, people are more worried about suspension mods, plasti dipping shit and painting badges.
 
Geez it never ends around here with the mythical OEM BS.

I use green window cleaning concentrate (not the Windex blue stuff) from Home Depot, mix up a gallon and pour it in. 155K miles so far and still on the OEM pump.

I've only had one pump ever go out on a car and that was on a POS Mercedes SLK. Pump was like $20 and a few minutes to replace. Just checked Rockauto and the washer pump for the 4Runner is $12 plus shipping.

It's only a matter of time before we get a post saying to only use OEM gasoline.

I'm so gullible.
 
I changed the transfer case oil for the third time at 153K miles and used the Mobil Delvac 75w90 Synthetic without the LSD so my wife won't be acid tripping out on her drive to Stevensville, MT this weekend. Old oil was Mobil 1 75w90 Synthetic LSD and it came out crystal clear with nothing on the drain plug.

Seriously, compared to my '99 K2500 Suburban Diesel, these Toyota 4Runners are incredibly reliable. If you want to chat with experienced wrenches, hang out on a diesel truck forum and you'll undoubtedly learn a whole lot. On Toyota Forums, people are more worried about suspension mods, plasti dipping shit and painting badges.
Unfortunately, you obviously don't understand how important plasti dipping is. Sheesh
 
hi, looking to change the rear diff fluid. I have a 2018 with 6k miles. It can't hurt to drain and fill it with new fluid for a little piece of mind, IMO. When I went to the dealership for my first free service, they claimed they didn't have the fluid in stock, which I found rather odd. Anyway, I'm scheduling my second free service and they now said they have it in stock. I asked which kind of diff gear oil, and they said exxon 80/90. I just want to make sure this is the correct/proper gear oil after all the horror stories I've heard about regarding service dept's at dealerships. Is exxon 80/90 the correct gear oil or is there anything better that I can upgrade to? thanks
 
hi, looking to change the rear diff fluid. I have a 2018 with 6k miles. It can't hurt to drain and fill it with new fluid for a little piece of mind, IMO. When I went to the dealership for my first free service, they claimed they didn't have the fluid in stock, which I found rather odd. Anyway, I'm scheduling my second free service and they now said they have it in stock. I asked which kind of diff gear oil, and they said exxon 80/90. I just want to make sure this is the correct/proper gear oil after all the horror stories I've heard about regarding service dept's at dealerships. Is exxon 80/90 the correct gear oil or is there anything better that I can upgrade to? thanks

There never has, nor will there ever be a clear consensus on anything related to automotive lubricants/fluids.

If you want to order the $35 - $75 a qt. Toyota 75W/85 LT/LX gear oil, go for it. I would bet a buck that stuff ends up in the techs private stash and you go home with Quaker State 80W-90 in your diffs.

You really do not need to change your gear oil this early in the game, but it is your vehicle to do with as you please.

No car dealer uses the manufacturers oil/gear oil in the vehicles they service. That stuff is for sale in the parts dept. for DIY types. Oil is purchased in bulk and stored in 200-300 gal. tanks. One weight. Usually 5W-30. Every car/truck that comes in for an oil change gets 5W-30. Some people find this hard to believe. It's all about economics. You'll get whatever gear oil they buy in bulk. Not surprised you were told Exxon 80W-90. It could be any brand, but 80W-90 is still the most common gear oil used. Lots of people use it.

The only way you will ever get what you want is to buy and install it yourself.
 
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There is absolutely zero need to change your diff fluid at 6k miles. At the end of they day that's a complete waste of money, time and resources (environmentally).
 
There is absolutely zero need to change your diff fluid at 6k miles. At the end of they day that's a complete waste of money, time and resources (environmentally).

This might be the only consensus reached on this thread.
 
There is absolutely zero need to change your diff fluid at 6k miles. At the end of they day that's a complete waste of money, time and resources (environmentally).

You're absolutely right BUT have you serviced your diffs yet? At 11K my oil was quite dirty and had quite a bit of metal in it. I could see the silver swirl in the drain pan which is what everyone finds when changing their oil early. Oil is cheap, diffs aren't. Why not get that crap out of there? Same reason I do engine oil changes every 5K miles, because oil can never be too clean.
 
You're absolutely right BUT have you serviced your diffs yet? At 11K my oil was quite dirty and had quite a bit of metal in it. I could see the silver swirl in the drain pan which is what everyone finds when changing their oil early. Oil is cheap, diffs aren't. Why not get that crap out of there? Same reason I do engine oil changes every 5K miles, because oil can never be too clean.

Here are my front and rear drain plugs at 25K. Front was not so bad color wise
but the back was shot, completely black. On my 1st gen Taco with 75k my diff fluids looks new compared to the 4R.
 

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Here are my front and rear drain plugs at 25K. Front was not so bad color wise
but the back was shot, completely black. On my 1st gen Taco with 75k my diff fluids looks new compared to the 4R.

Exactly my point. I changed mine at 11K and wish I changed it sooner. I will likely change it every 15K which is about 2 years for me give or take. My 2016 has about 14,400 miles on it, 85%-90% highway.
 
Exactly my point. I changed mine at 11K and wish I changed it sooner. I will likely change it every 15K which is about 2 years for me give or take. My 2016 has about 14,400 miles on it, 85%-90% highway.

Changed mine the first time and it was dark at 30k. Just changed again at 57k and it was dark, but still had amber coloring, and that's with a lot of off-roading. 30k intervals are just fine with me. So it'll only last 300k before blowing up versus 500k :shrug:
 
Changed mine the first time and it was dark at 30k. Just changed again at 57k and it was dark, but still had amber coloring, and that's with a lot of off-roading. 30k intervals are just fine with me. So it'll only last 300k before blowing up versus 500k :shrug:

Truth be told, it'll probably last 300K if you never touched it lol. I over maintain, always have, always will. Cheap peace of mind as far as i'm concerned.
 

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