Front and Rear Diff fluid change

I did the rear diff. Pretty easy, actually. Good info I learned here and other places.

1. Pb blaster was used. I assumed it helped.
2. A breaker bar was recommended. Lowes had an 18 inch bar. Good thing I got it. That fill plug was not coming off without it.
3. I just can't figure out how to remove the front panels to get to the front diff. I can fix lab analyzers but bolts on the bottom of a vehicle is another story.
4. The rear drain plug did not have a washer on it. It didn't fall in the tray and it was not smashed on the diff. I check several times. There are no leaks and I used correct torque.

Can someone point me to a diagram for removing the panels? I have to remove both to change the front diff? I searched and could not find it.

Making an appt with someone if I cant do it. I hope the front is not as tight as the rear.
 
I did the rear diff. Pretty easy, actually. Good info I learned here and other places.

1. Pb blaster was used. I assumed it helped.
2. A breaker bar was recommended. Lowes had an 18 inch bar. Good thing I got it. That fill plug was not coming off without it.
3. I just can't figure out how to remove the front panels to get to the front diff. I can fix lab analyzers but bolts on the bottom of a vehicle is another story.
4. The rear drain plug did not have a washer on it. It didn't fall in the tray and it was not smashed on the diff. I check several times. There are no leaks and I used correct torque.

Can someone point me to a diagram for removing the panels? I have to remove both to change the front diff? I searched and could not find it.

Making an appt with someone if I cant do it. I hope the front is not as tight as the rear.

There are 4 bolts, one in each corner. They are recessed. Look for 4 holes, the bolts will be up inside. In the front there are two skid plates. One towards the front of the vehicle, one towards the transmission. You want to remove the rear one closest to the transmission to get access to front diff. With the bolts out, you'll need to slide it a bit to come off.
 
I just did the rear diff on my girlfriends 2017 SR5 4WD. The gear oil looked excellent even at 45K miles. No metal pieces/filings to speak of. It took the full 3qts for it to begin to run out the filler hole FWIW. I used the Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W90. And the Amazon little hand pump, worked great.
 
I just did the rear diff on my girlfriends 2017 SR5 4WD. The gear oil looked excellent even at 45K miles. No metal pieces/filings to speak of. It took the full 3qts for it to begin to run out the filler hole FWIW. I used the Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W90. And the Amazon little hand pump, worked great.

This makes no sense at all. Guys dropping oil at 5K have metal filings and dark colored oil. This includes me at 11K, I wish I did it sooner. What did you find on the magnet? Is she the original owner of the truck?
 
I just changed my rear diff. 66K now, last changed at about 50K n used Mobil 1. Actually not bad looking, brown but def not black, cleaned magnet. Used Amsoil 75-90 Severe duty, 3 qts, at $17.00 qt not bad insurance for my fast interstate driving. SOOOOOOO much easier to do after my lift n 285 tires installed!!!
 
This makes no sense at all. Guys dropping oil at 5K have metal filings and dark colored oil. This includes me at 11K, I wish I did it sooner. What did you find on the magnet? Is she the original owner of the truck?

Original owner, new truck. Mostly all highway miles. Found very little on the magnet, a couple specks. Nothing like what others have described!
 
This makes no sense at all. Guys dropping oil at 5K have metal filings and dark colored oil. This includes me at 11K, I wish I did it sooner. What did you find on the magnet? Is she the original owner of the truck?

Don't mean to hijack, but bought my 2010 LE with 138,000 , now at 200,000 and dealer would not touch changing tranny fluid unless I signed something saying they were not responsible if tranny issues came up afterwards. Same on front and rear differential. Suggestions?
 
Don't mean to hijack, but bought my 2010 LE with 138,000 , now at 200,000 and dealer would not touch changing tranny fluid unless I signed something saying they were not responsible if tranny issues came up afterwards. Same on front and rear differential. Suggestions?

I don't blame them. That's WAY overdue on the tranny and diffs. Very unlikely anything with happen if you service the diffs but personally I think i'd leave the tranny alone. If you're set on servicing the tranny, I would do a pan service only. Absolutely do not flush that transmission unless you're ready to replace it in a couple months if even that long.
 
thanks to all of you who made me spend more monies, and for dragging my lazy butt off my couch on my next day off....

Sometimes ignorance is bliss....



jk
 
I don't blame them. That's WAY overdue on the tranny and diffs. Very unlikely anything with happen if you service the diffs but personally I think i'd leave the tranny alone. If you're set on servicing the tranny, I would do a pan service only. Absolutely do not flush that transmission unless you're ready to replace it in a couple months if even that long.

Thanks for the advice. The guy who had the car before me took good care of it based on condition and records through Toyota, but don't know if he flushed somewhere other than a Toyota dealership. I really want to get 300,000 miles out of this so I guess will keep my fingers crossed until something starts happening. Zero problems to date...I wonder if checking the color of the fluid will tell me anything?
 
Thanks for the advice. The guy who had the car before me took good care of it based on condition and records through Toyota, but don't know if he flushed somewhere other than a Toyota dealership. I really want to get 300,000 miles out of this so I guess will keep my fingers crossed until something starts happening. Zero problems to date...I wonder if checking the color of the fluid will tell me anything?

You can take an oil sample and send it to a place like blackstone. That will tell you the overall condition of the fluid and will give you a hint as to how much wear there is to internal transmission components. You want the oil to be pink or reddish. Once it starts turning brown like a burnt red, it's generally not a good idea to touch it. All the crap in the fluid is actually holding things together. Transmission fluid is a detergent, it cleans things. New oil will clean off any buildup in the transmission and can sometimes lead to failure due to this. Kind of like an engine that was not maintained well and has 200K on it and somehow doesn't burn oil. The grime is actually sealing it up. Now flush it, get all that grime out, and you end up with leaks and oil consumption.
 
You can take an oil sample and send it to a place like blackstone. That will tell you the overall condition of the fluid and will give you a hint as to how much wear there is to internal transmission components. You want the oil to be pink or reddish. Once it starts turning brown like a burnt red, it's generally not a good idea to touch it. All the crap in the fluid is actually holding things together. Transmission fluid is a detergent, it cleans things. New oil will clean off any buildup in the transmission and can sometimes lead to failure due to this. Kind of like an engine that was not maintained well and has 200K on it and somehow doesn't burn oil. The grime is actually sealing it up. Now flush it, get all that grime out, and you end up with leaks and oil consumption.

I watched the guy's video. Complete horseshit and he's YouTube clown hero. Correlated observations maybe, but show me research on this theory that crap in the fluid is holding a transmission together. The theory is preposterous.
 
It is the flushing action of the dealer's machine that causes a problem IMO. I would not worry about changing fluid and cleaning the pan and filter the old fashioned way.
 
I watched the guy's video. Complete horseshit and he's YouTube clown hero. Correlated observations maybe, but show me research on this theory that crap in the fluid is holding a transmission together. The theory is preposterous.

20 years experience is all I need for proof. Let's state some more facts while we're at it. Dealers like any other mechanic or any business for that matter are here to make money right? They will sell you a $30 air freshener and fresh air for your tires if you'll buy it. The fact they refuse to service the transmission should tell you something. The diffs are a different story, not sure what their issue is with that but no harm will come of servicing neglected diffs.
 

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