Front and Rear Diff fluid change

[2016 4Runner SR5]

I'd be willing to bet money that very few (if any) Toyota dealers in the US are using actual Genuine Toyota fluid for diff & t-case servicing by default. I know my dealer doesn't, or at least they didn't when I had them do the service on my previous FJ Cruiser. In fact if I remember correctly they told me they use the same bulk gear lube for all three.

You're absolutely right and keep in mind, Toyota has never and will never make oil. Someone else makes it, they stick their label on it and sell it for 3X more than it's worth. As far as the T case goes, that is a Toyota specific oil, bit they don't make that either. Last I heard, all Toyota branded oil was made by Mobil.

 

[Tuco S.]

Courtesy of someone at the other 4Runner forum. No need to use the Toyota 75W t-case fluid unless you enjoy wasting money.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

Courtesy of someone at the other 4Runner forum. No need to use the Toyota 75W t-case fluid unless you enjoy wasting money.

Thank you for posting this, confirming what the rest of us knew all along. Hopefully this can put to rest the damn misinformation from the OCD OEM oil pushers.

 

[young]

Alright, put Mobil 75w90 LS in front and rear differentials and Mobile Delvac 75w90 in transfer case. Had some 120K miles since the prior change. All fluids were clear and only slightly darker than the new. Garden sprayer pump set-up worked fine, but slow in the 34 F temp. I used 1/4 ID by 3/8 OD hose, but it took heating the ends in boiling water to get them onto the 3/8" ball valve. The picture in the post above looks like 3/8" ID hose.

I see "Delvac" at Amazon but I dont see non-Delvac mobil. Will the Mobil Delvac apply both front and rear differentials too?

 

[DurangoMax]

Redline Oil

I just did my transfer case and differentials this weekend and used Redline 75W90 in the transfer case and Redline 75W85 in the differentials. 90K miles and the dealer was suppose to have changes the differentials under the maintenance plan but I could tell the front had never been touched - 1/8" of metallic goo on the magnet on the drain plug. Appears they had done the others as the fluid and magnets were fairly clean.

 

[Hammer0313]

I just did my transfer case and differentials this weekend and used Redline 75W90 in the transfer case and Redline 75W85 in the differentials. 90K miles and the dealer was suppose to have changes the differentials under the maintenance plan but I could tell the front had never been touched - 1/8" of metallic goo on the magnet on the drain plug. Appears they had done the others as the fluid and magnets were fairly clean.

Good choice on the Redline, one of my favorite gear oils. I'm running Amsoil 70W90 in my diff's and TC, Transfer Case engages and shifts much better than the factory fluid. Let us know if you notice a difference with the Redline in the TC.

 

[1000MPH]

Video from Car Care Nut emphasizing GL4 for <strike> the Transfer Case</strike> manual transmissions and his opinion on the 75W Toyota fluid.
Which fluid to use for Toyota Diffs,Transfer Case and Manual transmissions - YouTube

Edit: GL-4 for Manual Transmissions not Transfer Cases

 

[DougR]

Video from Car Care Nut emphasizing GL4 for the Transfer Case and his opinion on the 75W Toyota fluid.
Which fluid to use for Toyota Diffs,Transfer Case and Manual transmissions - YouTube

I'm using GL-5 in the transfer case, so I double checked to make sure it's OK. The Car Care Nut says use GL-4 in synchronized manual transmissions and GL-5 in the transfer case, front and rear differentials at time 12:30 to 12:45 in the video.

 

[1000MPH]

Yep, you’re right. I was spacing out there for a minute. The Delvac I run is GL-5 as well.

 

[4Runner-416dude]

Thank you! (And a rambling introductory post)

Good morning gents,

This is my first post.
New member from Canada.
Bought a (new to me) 2010’ LTD , w/ 183k km.

Using this thread, and after doing research I was able to easily follow these instructions.
I am not a “car guy” , and have only gotten my hands dirty a couple times doing oil changes.
As a hvac mechanic most of the auto stuff is fairly easy to learn. The problem is there’s so much info.
The 4Runner was specifically bought so I can learn to do my own repairs (and also for its size and utility!)



Only owning the 4R for 2 weeks, and with 183k km, I didn’t know what to expect in the front and rear differentials and t-case. Judging by the cars interior and undercarriage, it appears that the previous owner(s) took alright care of it.

To my (happy) surprise, none of the fluids looked too bad.
Rear diff was recently changed (looked like, maybe 1yr ago or less?)
T-Case came out like yellow honey- good,
The front diff was the worst, but still not terrible.

I was expecting sludge, but got fairly clean used oil.

Not much came off the magnets, indicated the service had been completed at some point.

Filled rear and front diff with motomaster(Crappy tire house brand ) 75w90 full synthetic gear oil (bought at a good price),
The t-case got filled with RP synchromax (as per this forum recommendation)

Truck is running great!
Only put 1k km on the odo since purchase tho.

I will add a few pics if possible when I get home to a computer.

A HUGE THANK YOU TO ALL THE MEMBERS AND OPERATORS WHO CONTRIBUTE AND MAKE THIS SITE POSSIBLE!

Thanks guys,
-E

Pictures:

 

[Nodents2017]

How are you all checking that your 4Runner is level when doing diff fluid changes? I’m not sure if it really makes that much difference with regards to how much or how less fluid it will take to get it to run out of the fill hole. My thoughts were to use a bubble level on the frame rails.

 

[jdm-v35]

How are you all checking that your 4Runner is level when doing diff fluid changes? I’m not sure if it really makes that much difference with regards to how much or how less fluid it will take to get it to run out of the fill hole. My thoughts were to use a bubble level on the frame rails.

I think that level of difference would be negligible as long as you are on fairly level ground. I just did mine in the garage; didn't even need to jack it up or anything.

 

[Nodents2017]

I think that level of difference would be negligible as long as you are on fairly level ground. I just did mine in the garage; didn't even need to jack it up or anything.

That’s what I originally thought but with my stock suspension, the rear sits a little higher than the front does. Didn’t know if that actually made enough of a difference to matter. I’ll just chalk it up to level ground and try to keep my OCD at bay lol. Thanks!

 

[jdm-v35]

That’s what I originally thought but with my stock suspension, the rear sits a little higher than the front does. Didn’t know if that actually made enough of a difference to matter. I’ll just chalk it up to level ground and try to keep my OCD at bay lol. Thanks!

The amount of rake is barely anything so it would not have any effect really. if anything the rake is forward and fills are on the backs of each case, so it would hold a little more.

 

[Nodents2017]

The amount of rake is barely anything so it would not have any effect really. if anything the rake is forward and fills are on the backs of each case, so it would hold a little more.

Gotcha, makes sense. One other thing that popped into my head. Is it better to drive around and get the fluid up to temperature and then drain or let the car sit overnight and then drain? On one hand, I think getting the fluid warmed up and all the particulates suspended in the fluid would be better so that the fluid will flow out quicker with all the contaminants but then on the other hand I’m thinking letting the fluid sit so that the fluid flows back out of the axle tubes would be better.

 

[jdm-v35]

Gotcha, makes sense. One other thing that popped into my head. Is it better to drive around and get the fluid up to temperature and then drain or let the car sit overnight and then drain? On one hand, I think getting the fluid warmed up and all the particulates suspended in the fluid would be better so that the fluid will flow out quicker with all the contaminants but then on the other hand I’m thinking letting the fluid sit so that the fluid flows back out of the axle tubes would be better.

Now you're really getting down to the gnats ass on details. It won't make any difference really. Any metal should be stuck to the drain plug magnet but really the fluid will probably be pretty clean. just let it sit for like 15-20 min while draining to get as much out as possible.

 

[krravi]

Mobil 1 synthetic 75-90 for the diffs. OEM fluid for the transfer case is the only correct fluid you should be using. Your mechanic is like using the same 75-90 in the transfer case which is not correct. Spend the money and do it right. Whole lot cheaper than replacing a $2000 transfer case when it blows up and it eventually will. Borg Warner makes the case, they say absolutely do not use anything other than the OEM fluid.

I agree with you. Many say "Toyota does not make oils, it just their sticker with 3x price". While Toyota is not in the oil refining business, it does have it's own formula and is made to its specs. Search in bobistheoilguy forums and you will see that people speak highly of the Toyota 0w20. Something about more moly than any oil available in the market. Same with the 75W I suppose.

I have seen umpteen videos of people doing transfer case/transmission oil changes and some of them have a bronze/copper color stream of old oil along with the black oil pouring out. Not sure if they realize this or not, but their wrong choice of oil is chewing up their gears/cluth plates!! That's a sign right there.

I plan on 75-90 for the diffs and the OEM Toyota transfer case oil that comes in a can.

Now, how do I pump the oil from the can?

 

[MNT_GOAT]

How are you all checking that your 4Runner is level when doing diff fluid changes? I’m not sure if it really makes that much difference with regards to how much or how less fluid it will take to get it to run out of the fill hole. My thoughts were to use a bubble level on the frame rails.

It doesn't need to be perfectly level. You just don't want to do something like having the front axle up on jack stands while the rear is on the ground. Any garage floor is be perfectly fine.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

I agree with you. Many say "Toyota does not make oils, it just their sticker with 3x price". While Toyota is not in the oil refining business, it does have it's own formula and is made to its specs. Search in bobistheoilguy forums and you will see that people speak highly of the Toyota 0w20. Something about more moly than any oil available in the market. Same with the 75W I suppose.

I have seen umpteen videos of people doing transfer case/transmission oil changes and some of them have a bronze/copper color stream of old oil along with the black oil pouring out. Not sure if they realize this or not, but their wrong choice of oil is chewing up their gears/cluth plates!! That's a sign right there.

I plan on 75-90 for the diffs and the OEM Toyota transfer case oil that comes in a can.

Now, how do I pump the oil from the can?

Transfer pump. You can get them from Harbor Freight cheap or Amazon, maybe local auto parts stores. Something along these lines.

Amazon.com: Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids), Red medium : Everything Else

 

[2021nightshade4x4]

Heard Toyota also does not use any friction modifiers in its transmission fluid. Can anyone confirm or dispel?


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