Front brake caliper & pad replacement
- Thread starter Kmvreter
- Start date
riceandpho
Elite Member
before i did my brakes, i do remember it was 2 anti rattling spring on each caliper for the fronts.
g8rdmd
New member
I'm glad I found this thread, I love T4R :frog:
I have a right front caliper that has frozen on me. I noticed the tell-tale squealing coming from the wheel while rolling. This started about a month ago. So, I popped the wheel off and was able to get the pads out and get the pistons moving. I sprayed brake cleaner in there, dried with compressed air and then lubed everything and put it all back together.
That solved the issue up until now. The noise is back and no amount of cleaning and lubing will make it go away. So, I've ordered remanufactured calipers from RockAuto (Centric brand, already loaded with new pads). $120 per piece, but send your old calipers back and get $50 refunded each. I figured I would just be proactive and replace the driver side as I'm sure it would freeze as soon as I got the other fixed.
I'll report back after this weekend as to how the swap-out goes...
I have a right front caliper that has frozen on me. I noticed the tell-tale squealing coming from the wheel while rolling. This started about a month ago. So, I popped the wheel off and was able to get the pads out and get the pistons moving. I sprayed brake cleaner in there, dried with compressed air and then lubed everything and put it all back together.
That solved the issue up until now. The noise is back and no amount of cleaning and lubing will make it go away. So, I've ordered remanufactured calipers from RockAuto (Centric brand, already loaded with new pads). $120 per piece, but send your old calipers back and get $50 refunded each. I figured I would just be proactive and replace the driver side as I'm sure it would freeze as soon as I got the other fixed.
I'll report back after this weekend as to how the swap-out goes...
FRT
New member
Just to reiterate, the NAPA reman'd units look and perform much better than the RockAuto reman'd units. The RockAuto ones started looking all rusty rather quickly, whereas the NAPA ones are still looking sharp with whatever coating they use. The stopping power is better with the NAPA ones as well. It didn't take long at all either for the RockAuto ones to pop up the frozen piston issue either. NAPA is rock'n steady thus far. Just my experience, YMMV. 
I'll continue to report back every so often.
I'll continue to report back every so often.SnoboardingDave
Member
OCD on my part I believe. =)
I noticed having just one that the pads weren't pushed back against the calipers evenly/perfectly, so I added another spring to even it out. And who knows, maybe the little bit of back pressure it'll add will help to prevent the pistons from freezing up again (doubtful that'll make a difference).
I have a problem & I'm looking for some advice. I had new front calipers/pads installed back in October. I noticed a rattle right away when the brakes were NOT applied. Searched TR4.org & learned about the anti-rattle springs, which the mechanic didn't install. I took it back, he popped them in (only 1 per side) & it seemed quite for a while. Fast forward to now, about 4 months & 4,000 miles later, it sounds like those springs aren't doing anything plus there's now a "clunking" type noise when I hit bumps that I'm sure is coming from the brakes. Before I left for work the other day, I just reached through the wheel to see if there was anything loose to touch. I could wiggle one of the pads around slightly & move the slider pins some. Got in, drove off & the "clunking" almost completely went away, at least from that side, kind of random. However it did come back a day or two later. I took a front wheels off over the weekend & everything seemed normal. However, I know little about brakes but I'm learning thanks to this site. So I guess my question is - Could something related to the slider pins or pads be causing this noise(clunking)? Maybe they weren't greased if they needed to be. Maybe, I'll also throw another set of anti-rattle springs in to see if I can eliminate the rattle.
*Should also note-
1. By the corrosion look that the calipers already accrued in 4 months, I'd say none of the parts used were Genuine Toyota if that makes any difference.
2. I drive all week in downtown DC, so there's no shortage of bumps to try to narrow down where noises are coming from, or being caused by.
Last edited:
clem18
New member
Got the same issue of frozen caliper at 130k miles. Mine is in the driver side although the passenger side is about to go that way too. I got the caliper from NAPA as well, thanks to FRT's review and update.
Awesome writeup Kmvreter on the install. You made my life easier!
When I discovered it, I have to put everything back together except that I had to use a new pad to the working piston and the old pad to the frozen piston. I can't use the old pad on the working piston because it broke apart when I was removing it.
Anyway, I did not get a new caliper until after a week and I was able to put about 1k miles to the old and new pad setup with no problem. I'm saying this so others would not to worry if they get in that situation. But ofcourse you should still get it fixed as soon as possible.
Awesome writeup Kmvreter on the install. You made my life easier!
When I discovered it, I have to put everything back together except that I had to use a new pad to the working piston and the old pad to the frozen piston. I can't use the old pad on the working piston because it broke apart when I was removing it.
Anyway, I did not get a new caliper until after a week and I was able to put about 1k miles to the old and new pad setup with no problem. I'm saying this so others would not to worry if they get in that situation. But ofcourse you should still get it fixed as soon as possible.
bob3dsf
New member
Got a question for those who've replaced with reman'd calipers. Have some used the caliper/pad/hardware "kit?"
Mine might be heading the way of a frozen caliper. I'm getting some pulling to the right and I hear a humming sound that changes in pitch with changes in speed. It makes me think that a pad is dragging on the rotor. I had the brakes done on my wifes car last summer and the rotors needed turning. THe shop I used left a rotor (or rotors) a little rough (took it back and they fixed it) and it produced a similar, but more pronounced humming (than what I'm hearing from my 4R). I'm thinking I might order some calipers/pads to have on hand. I'd hate to pull the wheels to inspect and find I do have a frozen piston and not be able to go ahead and fix it.
Anyone experience the humming as a symptom of frozen pistons?
Mine might be heading the way of a frozen caliper. I'm getting some pulling to the right and I hear a humming sound that changes in pitch with changes in speed. It makes me think that a pad is dragging on the rotor. I had the brakes done on my wifes car last summer and the rotors needed turning. THe shop I used left a rotor (or rotors) a little rough (took it back and they fixed it) and it produced a similar, but more pronounced humming (than what I'm hearing from my 4R). I'm thinking I might order some calipers/pads to have on hand. I'd hate to pull the wheels to inspect and find I do have a frozen piston and not be able to go ahead and fix it.
Anyone experience the humming as a symptom of frozen pistons?
I had a pulsing type of vibration when mine went.... Almost felt like a warped rotor....
drz400smoto
New member
Glad I found this tread; now I know it wasn't just a random problem with my 4th gen.
I heard a slight squeal last night with the windows down; jacked up the front driverside wheel and it was way too hard to turn by hand. The pistons aren't frozen yet, but they are a corroded mess. So I think I'm just going to go ahead and get some remaned calipers and pads from Napa. Is anyone replaced rotors as well while doing this?
I heard a slight squeal last night with the windows down; jacked up the front driverside wheel and it was way too hard to turn by hand. The pistons aren't frozen yet, but they are a corroded mess. So I think I'm just going to go ahead and get some remaned calipers and pads from Napa. Is anyone replaced rotors as well while doing this?
nyc4runnin
New member
earthrealm
Senior Member
seeems napa calipers are the best all round?..anyone tried calipers from amazon?..the hv remanned raybestos abt $84 n no core charge!
Raybestos FRC11554 Professional Grade Remanufactured, Semi-Loaded Disc Brake Caliper : Amazon.com : Automotive
Raybestos FRC11554 Professional Grade Remanufactured, Semi-Loaded Disc Brake Caliper : Amazon.com : Automotive
From my experience and from what I have read it looks like the problem with the calipers is in the basic design/materials.... Remans just give you more of the same so there still is a fair chance you might have more replacements in your future.... When I was deciding what I would go with the thing that attracted me to the NAPA brand was that they are lifetime warrantee (keep your receipt!) and that they were painted/coated with something that seems to handle the new England winter fairly well..... If/when they fail in the future I can get replacements for free....;- )
Last edited:
Can just one be changed or is both required?
Hey,
Can anyone answer the question about what the rule of thumb is for changing just one caliper?
My front right caliper is bad with a stuck, lower-inside piston. I ordered a new caliper to replace it; however, a friend of mine said that it is "necessary" to change the front-left too if you're changing the right. Essentially, if you change one, you need to change both in order to make sure your breaking is symmetrical.
How legitimate is that? Can I change only one side without exposing myself to maintenance issues, danger, etc?
Hey,
Can anyone answer the question about what the rule of thumb is for changing just one caliper?
My front right caliper is bad with a stuck, lower-inside piston. I ordered a new caliper to replace it; however, a friend of mine said that it is "necessary" to change the front-left too if you're changing the right. Essentially, if you change one, you need to change both in order to make sure your breaking is symmetrical.
How legitimate is that? Can I change only one side without exposing myself to maintenance issues, danger, etc?
Kmvreter
New member
Yes. I only change each side as required, which is way too often!!!
However, pads should be changed as a set.
earthrealm
Senior Member
yeh i have done the tundra/larger brake upgrade...piece of cake..note: u r truck needs to hv 17 '' rims..... buy the 338mm rotors, 13wh calipers and you are good to go...u can bend the backing place backwards or grind it if you are OCD......there is a thread on the whole procedure........
Kmvreter
New member
Just an update.
I forgot to log it here but I had to do both calipers in the summer of 2012. The NAPA unit only lasted a year whereas I'm getting 2 years out of a CarQuest. That makes 6 total so far.
Fast forward to this week. Found a slightly frozen lower inner piston on the driver's side that I was able to free up (no driveability issues and the pad wear is still even.) Not a good sign so I'm preparing to go a different route this time. I've got the OEM caliper seal kit and new pistons. I'll be doing the reman myself. I'll pull the wheel again in another month to check it out but hope it lasts until better weather in the spring.
Stay tuned.
I forgot to log it here but I had to do both calipers in the summer of 2012. The NAPA unit only lasted a year whereas I'm getting 2 years out of a CarQuest. That makes 6 total so far.
Fast forward to this week. Found a slightly frozen lower inner piston on the driver's side that I was able to free up (no driveability issues and the pad wear is still even.) Not a good sign so I'm preparing to go a different route this time. I've got the OEM caliper seal kit and new pistons. I'll be doing the reman myself. I'll pull the wheel again in another month to check it out but hope it lasts until better weather in the spring.
Stay tuned.
Similar threads
