Front brake caliper & pad replacement

[ecorey157]

Life-long Toyota owner currently with a 2005 4Runner Sport Edition V6 with 125,000.

Went to change the rotors and pads this weekend and discovered that the inner pistons on both front calipers were seized. Probably seized for quite some time, as the outer pads were wore down nearly all the way, while the inner pads had a lot of meat left still.

At the time I first inspected the pads and saw the vast disparity between the inner and outer pads I didn't exactly know what I had discovered. But an internet search led me to this thread, and now I know....

So I'll be replacing the calipers now, too.

 

[Bob J]

Life-long Toyota owner currently with a 2005 4Runner Sport Edition V6 with 125,000.

Went to change the rotors and pads this weekend and discovered that the inner pistons on both front calipers were seized. Probably seized for quite some time, as the outer pads were wore down nearly all the way, while the inner pads had a lot of meat left still.

At the time I first inspected the pads and saw the vast disparity between the inner and outer pads I didn't exactly know what I had discovered. But an internet search led me to this thread, and now I know....

So I'll be replacing the calipers now, too.

Welcome to the forum! Unfortunately this is a pretty common problem for those of us living in the frozen north..... Good you found it....

 

[AndroT100]

Hope this is the place to post this question....

I had my 60k service done at the deal 3200 miles ago (03 4x4 Sport w V8). At the time they said my front pad thicknesses were 4mm on driver-side and 3mm on passenger-side.

At what point should I replace pads? Give it a few thousand more miles or do it now?

Thanks!

 

[Kmvreter]

Hope this is the place to post this question....

I had my 60k service done at the deal 3200 miles ago (03 4x4 Sport w V8). At the time they said my front pad thicknesses were 4mm on driver-side and 3mm on passenger-side.

At what point should I replace pads? Give it a few thousand more miles or do it now?

Thanks!

Min thickness is 1mm (0.039"). You're on the edge. Are your wear indicators "squealing" when stopping? You don't want to get to the point where your thin pads are damaging the rotor.

 

[AndroT100]

Min thickness is 1mm (0.039"). You're on the edge. Are your wear indicators "squealing" when stopping? You don't want to get to the point where your thin pads are damaging the rotor.

Thank you!

Yeah....I made an appointment to have them changed and will probably resurface the rotors....just fronts of course. With a few thousand miles since 3mm.....I am close enough that I shouldn't risk it. The rotors are in good shape, and thus not much should have to be taken off them. It is the first resurfacing and hopefully they'll keep them thick so they won't warp soon.

 

[Kmvreter]

... will probably resurface the rotors... The rotors are in good shape, and thus not much should have to be taken off them...

If they are in good shape then nothing should be taken off. Don't touch them.
There are a lot of misconceptions out there about resurfacing and "warped" rotors.

 

[acronin2]

Need help/opinions

So I am currently in the process of replacing my front brake pads and rotors (2004 v6 Sport 103k) and think I may have at least one frozen caliper on my passenger side. I was having trouble sliding the inside brake pad out with the caliper in place. I was not able to get the lower inside piston to depress enough to slide the pad out so I pulled off the caliper since I was going to need to do that anyway to replace the rotors. Once the caliper was off I was able to remove the brake pad but inside the inner pistons was a lot of rust particles. This may be normal for a 10 yr old truck??? There was definitely some uneven wear on the pads but I was able to depress the other 3 pistons with a C clamp. I turned the key on so I could press the brake pedal and when I did that only one (top outer) piston moved. Considering that only 1 of the 4 pistons moved when pressing the brake pedal and the fact that I was not able to depress one of the other pistons at all does this mean that the caliper is bad? Even if I can get the one piston to depress would it be smarter to just go ahead a replace the caliper?? Sorry for the wordiness. Any opinions would be awesome. Thanks in advance

 

[Bob J]

So I am currently in the process of replacing my front brake pads and rotors (2004 v6 Sport 103k) and think I may have at least one frozen caliper on my passenger side. I was having trouble sliding the inside brake pad out with the caliper in place. I was not able to get the lower inside piston to depress enough to slide the pad out so I pulled off the caliper since I was going to need to do that anyway to replace the rotors. Once the caliper was off I was able to remove the brake pad but inside the inner pistons was a lot of rust particles. This may be normal for a 10 yr old truck??? There was definitely some uneven wear on the pads but I was able to depress the other 3 pistons with a C clamp. I turned the key on so I could press the brake pedal and when I did that only one (top outer) piston moved. Considering that only 1 of the 4 pistons moved when pressing the brake pedal and the fact that I was not able to depress one of the other pistons at all does this mean that the caliper is bad? Even if I can get the one piston to depress would it be smarter to just go ahead a replace the caliper?? Sorry for the wordiness. Any opinions would be awesome. Thanks in advance

Yep, if any piston is frozen the caliper is pretty much toast.... You might be able to rebuild it but it is much easier to just replace it..... Unfortunately as you can see from this thread it is not an uncommon problem.....

 

[Kmvreter]

Just an update...
I forgot to log it here but I had to do both calipers in the summer of 2012. The NAPA unit only lasted a year whereas I'm getting 2 years out of a CarQuest. That makes 6 total so far.
Fast forward to this week. Found a slightly frozen lower inner piston on the driver's side that I was able to free up (no driveability issues and the pad wear is still even.) Not a good sign so I'm preparing to go a different route this time. I've got the OEM caliper seal kit and new pistons. I'll be doing the reman myself... I'll pull the wheel again in another month to check it out but hope it lasts until better weather in the spring.
Stay tuned.

Another update...
Truck is down waiting for an alternator rebuild so I'm doing the spring tire/wheel change and brake service.
The driver's side lower inner is completely frozen (as predicted.) The passenger's side lower inner was also frozen. Removed the brake pads and pulled the cylinder boot rubbers off all the pistons. There is a ring of rust at the piston joint on the frozen ones. Sprayed these with PB Blaster and let it soak. Pumped the brakes to extend the pistons and the passenger side came loose. I'll let the driver's side soak longer to try and free it up because it will be a b!+*h to try and free it on the bench.
I'll be servicing both calipers with seals and pistons and do a seperate write-up with pics.

ps Future CV axle replacements added to the list. Found a completely split inner CV boot on the passenger's side and a wet inner CV boot on the driver's side (the previous, older, clamp repairs held up.)

 

[Kmvreter]

Link to the caliper rebuild mentioned above:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maint...front-brake-caliper-rebuild-stuck-piston.html

 

[cahall18]

So today I sorta had to just bite the bullet. I pay pretty good attention to how my 2005 4Runner Sport is running so I don't know how I missed it. Started as a pretty bad steering wheel vibration at high speed. Intermittently the problem would be worse. Was starting to think my wheels were out of balance. Then..last night driving to the gas station(30-40mph) I had very bad steering wheel vibration. Turned around and went home. Took my car to the Firestone this morning. Turns out both front calipers had one of the pistons seized - which is why when I braked hard my car didn't pull one way or the other? - rotors are both warped. For $650 out the door I would get new calipers, rotors, and pads with a lifetime warranty on parts an labor. Since this is my DD and I need to get to work I didn't really have the luxury of attempting this myself but considering this is happening to some people yearly the fact that there is a lifetime warranty on parts and labor eased the hit a little bit. Still sucks though.

 

[Merle]

Great thread, timely as all get up!

2008 4Runner with 190,000 miles and finally the driver side caliper had a frozen piston (inside bottom). Ran off to NAPA (another great reason for the thread!) to pick up a replacement caliper for $87 + $50 core. Might just do the passenger side while I'm at it since it's so... pretty.

Haven't drained / flushed the brake fluid, but will probably do that later. Wondering though...

1. How much brake fluid should I pick up?
2. Dot 3 / 4 / brand?
3. If I do a flush, how much fluid should I plan on buying?

I went with Centric pads at 60,000 miles (give or take) and the rotors look just fine!

 

[Merle]

Great thread, timely as all get up!

2008 4Runner with 190,000 miles and finally the driver side caliper had a frozen piston (inside bottom). Ran off to NAPA (another great reason for the thread!) to pick up a replacement caliper for $87 + $50 core. Might just do the passenger side while I'm at it since it's so... pretty.

Haven't drained / flushed the brake fluid, but will probably do that later. Wondering though...

1. How much brake fluid should I pick up?
2. Dot 3 / 4 / brand?
3. If I do a flush, how much fluid should I plan on buying?

I went with Centric pads at 60,000 miles (give or take) and the rotors look just fine!

Changed out the two front calipers this weekend (stuck at home because I had 4 wisdom teeth yanked) and can answer my own question. Was initially just going to change out one of the caliper (front driver sized, frozen piston) but decided to take care of the passenger side while I was at it. Then decided that since I was going to be in there, might as well flush the coolant.

1. Just changing the calipers requires little to no fluid. The flushing is going to take a few oz's so a small bottle (12 oz) would be good.

2. Valvoline (blue bottle) is synthetic and has a higher boiling temperature. We're talking $7.99 for a 32 oz bottle so it's not expensive to use something better than a generic brand.

3. Since I was in there, I decided to flush the system (it's been years if ever) so two of the 32 oz bottles is enough. I picked up a 12 oz bottle (#1 above) but didn't use it.

 

[Greydog]

Great write-up, I used this over last weekend. Changed front and rear rotors and pads, and all 4 calipers (184k).

I've never replaced calipers before or blend brakes, and it went fine...once I remembered to turn on the ignition and them pump for the front bleeding.

Thanks for taking the time to set-up this thread !

 

[ben550]

Great thread. I was able to replace both front calipers without any issues.

I will be bleeding the entire system to get all the old fluid out when I have more time...

Thanks.

 

[t-man]

I replaced my pads and rotors last month and noticed uneven pad wear, but didn't realize the full story on this. The new pads/rotors worked great, and then the other day I went out on some trails with my boys and after driving through a couple mud holes my brakes got all spongy and don't even work half as good as normal. I have to push the pedal down way past what was even possible before! Does anybody know if this may be caliper issue's?? I am thinking of replacing all of them and flushing with new fluid all the way through now but want some opinions before I spend all that money. Thanks everyone for any help you can provide.

 

[Bob J]

I replaced my pads and rotors last month and noticed uneven pad wear, but didn't realize the full story on this. The new pads/rotors worked great, and then the other day I went out on some trails with my boys and after driving through a couple mud holes my brakes got all spongy and don't even work half as good as normal. I have to push the pedal down way past what was even possible before! Does anybody know if this may be caliper issue's?? I am thinking of replacing all of them and flushing with new fluid all the way through now but want some opinions before I spend all that money. Thanks everyone for any help you can provide.

Spongy doesn't sound like the usual 4runner frozen/stuck caliper issue to me.... This sounds more like a leak and/or air in the lines or a master cylinder/accumulator issue.... First thing I would do is to check the fluid level and make sure you are not losing any.... If that is ok then I would think you have a problem with the master cylinder and/or accumulator....

 

[t-man]

Spongy doesn't sound like the usual 4runner frozen/stuck caliper issue to me.... This sounds more like a leak and/or air in the lines or a master cylinder/accumulator issue.... First thing I would do is to check the fluid level and make sure you are not losing any.... If that is ok then I would think you have a problem with the master cylinder and/or accumulator....

No leaks... Ugh. Will the master cylinder and accumulator just quickly go out? I was fine, went through mud hole and they sucked! I thought it was dirt and water at first, but they're clean now.

 

[Bob J]

No leaks... Ugh. Will the master cylinder and accumulator just quickly go out? I was fine, went through mud hole and they sucked! I thought it was dirt and water at first, but they're clean now.

Am not sure Tony but have to assume it's possible.... The brakes are power assisted and that is where the accumulator comes in.... My opinion would be to take it to a good shop that you trust..... You might also want to PM [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] and see if he can offer an opinion.... Be aware that if this is the problem it will not be cheap....:-(

 

[4RunnFunn]

Since I was in there, I decided to flush the system (it's been years if ever) so two of the 32 oz bottles is enough. I picked up a 12 oz bottle (#1 above) but didn't use it.

Any chance you could add flushing directions to this thread...would be very helpful...Thanks!