Front end thump with videos, help me diagnose!!

Any updates? So as you know/commented I had the same issue. Checked out the diff and it was moving just like yours while rotating the tire and binding CV. I attribute the diff moving because the CV is binding and having to move the CV in order to rotate, translating to diff movement. I replaced the CV with another from Rockauto. Still binding...and now vibrating at the same spot of every rotation. Going to source OEM axles to hopefully fix it all back up.
 
This is due to you having a spacer on top of your Boss coilovers. This makes your effective range of travel shift downward, less available uptravel, more available down travel. So when you're at full droop (jacked up like in your videos, or turning and the body rolls) you're getting CV bind. The 5100's are already very long extended length without a top plate spacer I found out, not sure about BOSS extended lengths. Also OEM CV's have been found to have the best angle capability short of getting custom inner cups machined. I would remove your top plate spacer to save your CV's and get some up travel back. You may need to go with higher spring rates for your bumper and retain the height you want.
 
blackoutt said:
Also OEM CV's have been found to have the best angle capability short of getting custom inner cups machined.
Click to expand...

Exactly. I replaced my cheap RockAuto CV's with OEM. No binding at all. OEM is the only way to go for CV's if running a lift.
 
Other members have ran a spacer on top of their Toytec BOSS lift and haven't had any problems. I believe it is because I didn't go with an OEM CV and that it causes it to bind due to the inner cup of the cv being "too much". [MENTION=108235]CruzadoBlanco[/MENTION] http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/217034-cruzados-idgaf-build-thread.html has been running this setup for awhile and says he wheels the piss out of it and it does great, no binding. We even compared wheel to fender/ hub to fender measurements and we are very close. For now I put my sway bar back on and it helped alot due to no more body role. I will replace the CV with an OEM but for now it works and have been offroad with it.
 
Ive run mine with a spacer for a long time. No issues at all. I do run a 1" diff drop. I dont run oem CVs but I do run the NAPA new manufacture HD CVs with the HD boots. Only had one give me issues out of the few ive had. Seem just as good as oems to me at least strength wise and angle wise. I blew up my oem shafts on 33s, so far only lost 1 Napa shaft since switching to those. Just dont buy remans from them, those are very hit or miss for some reason.
 
dont waste your time doing another cv shaft yet, those front diff bushings are severly wore out and is a pretty obvious concern, being that bad the diff will shift when you make a turn causing a popping noise, also the top of the strut looks like way too much movement side to side in the coil, its hard to see the very top where the strutmount is since the video doesn't show that high up
 
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