Front Range Offroad Rear links control arms!

What? Fabbed LCA's?!
Can we get UCA's and LCA's in +1" forward for firewall clearance on 35's? ☺[emoji91]

Also interested in who makes these heims- it seems the question was avoided?


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Tyler James Inc said:
What? Fabbed LCA's?!
Can we get UCA's and LCA's in +1" forward for firewall clearance on 35's? ☺[emoji91]

Also interested in who makes these heims- it seems the question was avoided?


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Click to expand...

Buy some SPC's, move them to forward location. You will have about 1" clearance between firewall and 35's. Another member has zero rub on the street with his SPC"s and 35's.

I have mine set this way on 33's and it completely clears the firewall pinchweld in all flex situations.
 
JayRolla said:
Buy some SPC's, move them to forward location. You will have about 1" clearance between firewall and 35's. Another member has zero rub on the street with his SPC"s and 35's.



I have mine set this way on 33's and it completely clears the firewall pinchweld in all flex situations.
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I have plenty of clearance with stock arms and 35's on the street- including turning into steep aprons etc.
Also, by setting the SPC's on the forward position, you are putting negative caster into your alignment. I want my rig to perform great offroad(see: no rub throughout entire travel), but TBH, I spend more time ON the road than off, and positive caster is important to me.
 
Tyler James Inc said:
I have plenty of clearance with stock arms and 35's on the street- including turning into steep aprons etc.
Also, by setting the SPC's on the forward position, you are putting negative caster into your alignment. I want my rig to perform great offroad(see: no rub throughout entire travel), but TBH, I spend more time ON the road than off, and positive caster is important to me.
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Stock arms shaved are actually the same thing as SPC's but you still have a harsh angle on the UBJ which causes them to fail when wheeling hard.

Moving the SPC's forward is the same location as a stock arm. Its not removing any more caster than if running OEM arms.

I was able to get 2* caster which drives exactly the same as when I was running 5* caster. I spend more time on the street also. If your running stock arms your in the same exact boat as SPC's pushed forward so you wont lose any caster but gain the more droop allowed by the SPC ball joint. It wont bottom out like OEM's can.
 
JayRolla said:
Stock arms shaved are actually the same thing as SPC's but you still have a harsh angle on the UBJ which causes them to fail when wheeling hard.

Moving the SPC's forward is the same location as a stock arm. Its not removing any more caster than if running OEM arms.
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Oh okay. I didn't know that, but it makes sense- since they're designed to fix the negative caster the stock arms provide when lifted.
I have my lower cams adjusted to push the knuckle forward as much as possible, and help with firewall clearance and caster.
My arms aren't shaved, but- obviously- that doesn't change anything geometry wise.
Back to my original statement- if we could get arms that are 1" forward, we could have awesome caster and plenty of clearance without tubbing the FW... maybe even 2" on the lower and 1" on the upper- since 1" forward on both wouldn't help gaining any caster.
Also, utilizing the OEM LBJ would be ideal- since I am actually in the middle of replacing them- in my garage- as I type this.
Just my style; I'm different than most guys.
 
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Tyler James Inc said:
Oh okay. I didn't know that, but it makes sense- since they're designed to fix the negative caster the stock arms provide when lifted.
I have my lower cams adjusted to push the knuckle forward as much as possible, and help with firewall clearance and caster.
My arms aren't shaved, but- obviously- that doesn't change anything geometry wise.
Back to my original statement- if we could get arms that are 1" forward, we could have awesome caster and plenty of clearance without tubbing the FW... maybe even 2" on the lower and 1" on the upper- since 1" forward on both wouldn't help gaining any caster.
Also, utilizing the OEM LBJ would be ideal- since I am actually in the middle of replacing them- in my garage- as I type this.
Just my style; I'm different than most guys.
Click to expand...

I think if it was pushed that far forward you would not be jamming those 35's in the front end of the wheel well (bumper, fender, ect.) That would also change the geometry that I bet it would cause some other issues.

Every aftermarket UCA adds 2* caster forward but really messes with the geometry and I'm really surprised it was never addressed. Every rig i've seen with uniball UCA's are having firewall clearance issues. My brothers 4th gen can literally pin its tire into the firewall and he cant even turn anymore when wheeling. They end up notching the frame to clear tires.

Stock UCA's work great and SPC's. I would rather lose a little caster and not rub everywhere I drive thats for sure.
 
Yeah, exactly; UCA's can fix caster, but at the cost of firewall clearance.
I don't see how pushing the UCA/LCA forward 1-2" would adversely affect geometry, but I'm not a suspension engineer or anything.
As far as shoving it 1" forward, and running into the front apron goes, that's a much more minor thing to tub than the firewall. Even leaving the UBJ in the stock position, and moving the LBJ 1" forward would help with caster and clearance. And that would only move the center of the hub about 3/4" forward- do to its location on the knuckle.
If it was a track car, maybe the 1-2" forward would have a negative affect on the geometry, but I think the negative affect would be negligible on our 4Runners.
Again, just my unprofessional opinion.
If someone can prove me wrong with a suspension geometry calculator, I have no problem being wrong!


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Is there a way to adjust caster. That's where I am at with the uniball UCA. I'm only running 265/65/16, and I run the back on occasion. Not always, and I hate it.
 
jstim said:
Is there a way to adjust caster. That's where I am at with the uniball UCA. I'm only running 265/65/16, and I run the back on occasion. Not always, and I hate it.
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No question mark, but I think that was a question, yeah?
If so- yes; the caster is adjusted with the LCA alignment adjusting cams.
Moving the LBJ forward increases caster.
I should add, moving either cam changes camber and toe as well. This should only be done by an alignment shop on an alignment rack.
 
Tyler James Inc said:
Yeah, exactly; UCA's can fix caster, but at the cost of firewall clearance.
I don't see how pushing the UCA/LCA forward 1-2" would adversely affect geometry, but I'm not a suspension engineer or anything.
As far as shoving it 1" forward, and running into the front apron goes, that's a much more minor thing to tub than the firewall. Even leaving the UBJ in the stock position, and moving the LBJ 1" forward would help with caster and clearance. And that would only move the center of the hub about 3/4" forward- do to its location on the knuckle.
If it was a track car, maybe the 1-2" forward would have a negative affect on the geometry, but I think the negative affect would be negligible on our 4Runners.
Again, just my unprofessional opinion.
If someone can prove me wrong with a suspension geometry calculator, I have no problem being wrong!


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Click to expand...

Pushing LCA BJ forward; love it.
 
I'll get this thread back on topic. :D

These are amazing rear control arms.

How they came


All Painted up


All put back together


Set the length to stock


installed and doing great.


I just did a road trip over the weekend almost 400 miles and I can say that on the road there is no difference in the amount of vibration that is transmitted. But the whole rear of the truck feels much more solid and at the same time more flexible. I couldn't be happier.
 
Originally was going to go with these but I got a smoking deal on a used full set of Rokmen Pro's plus a Toytec adj. panhard. Good to know these work out great [MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION]
 
$585 includes shipping, for uppers & lowers. I have an adj panhard already. There's no one who makes them cheaper? I'd like to upgrade my stockers when I swap axles. I do trust Rockdawgs review 100% though.
 
Scramble said:
$585 includes shipping, for uppers & lowers. I have an adj panhard already. There's no one who makes them cheaper? I'd like to upgrade my stockers when I swap axles. I do trust Rockdawgs review 100% though.
Click to expand...

I've been toying around with the idea of having some made like the ones SS sells. They wouldn't be adjustable, but cheaper I would think and bushings would provide a better ride/last longer maybe than heims.
 
Heims aren't for everyone.. Especially not for anyone that drives 15k+ miles a year. After a shorter period of time (compared to bushings) they can begin to chatter/knock and require either being tightened or the heims replaced.

Bushings wont allow for as much flex but they're definitely the more "comfort" option while still maintaining good flex.

FWIW, I haven't had any issue with the Rokmen links. However, my lower links are Johnny Joints which is completely different from a heim.
 
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