I found that even the stubbiest 3/8" 14mm 6 pt socket and breaker bar had trouble fitting all the way over that nut. And there's obviously no room for a deep socket.
I've also found that there's no room around that nut for any of the 14mm box ratchets I own.
To get a proper fit, I'd suggest using a Dremel tool to grind down that pyramid atop the stud. Six mm of metal could easily be removed above the stud's threads. Then, the setup I mentioned in paragraph one ought to work and fit nicely over the nut. Once you've got bar and socket in place in place, you could use a piece of wood, a stick of 1x2 for instance, to exert downward pressure as you turn the nut. When the nut breaks loose, switch to a 1/4" ratchet and 14mm socket.
Alternative #1: a 14mm S-wrench - also called a manifold wrench, I think - with a 6pt opening might work well.
Alternative #2: If you grind down the pyramid it's possible you could use one of those 14mm wrenches that are an open end combined with a socket that swivels. These wrenches don't seem to have a widely agreed upon name, so I've attached a picture. Again, 6 pts.
Alternative #3: if you have access to a welder, weld a stubby 6pt 14mm socket to a piece of strap steel 1/8" x 1" x 12 (or more)".
In any case, that particular nut that's troubling you is more difficult on the driver side. I found on the passenger side I could get a breaker bar and socket in place and hit the bar with a hammer- plenty of swing room. Not so on the driver side. I had to add a small length of pipe my breaker bar.
Finally, before you reinstall the assembly - assuming you're reusing the Toyota tower - run a die over the stud you shortened with the Dremel tool.[/QUOT
Don't destroy your shock it's made that way for a reason. Refer to my post and picture.
