Front Wheel Bearing DIY
- Thread starter Spunk
- Start date
mtbtim
Elite Member
Brian, I really think you should reconsider keeping this write-up in the Tutorials and FAQs list. Do you really want to some poor dude to take a reciprocating saw to his hubs? This write-up is not worthy of passing on to other people. Sean and I go through great pains to give people good video tutorials to follow and we always try our best to not pass on inaccurate information and/or showcase improper techniques. If we find a mistake we've made or somebody has pointed out a mistake, we correct it.
you can actually buy the hub assembly and just remove the old and install the new. very easy. see this link where to get it.
4Runner / Tacoma / FJ Cruiser - Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly - (4x4) - with ABS | eBay
4Runner / Tacoma / FJ Cruiser - Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly - (4x4) - with ABS | eBay
If one doesnt have the skills to do this job could one just buy the entire new knucke with bearing/hub already in it from the dealer? Asking for a friend
According to the description, this doesnt apply to the 3rd gen.
Jesus christ....this was a perfectly fine writeup until the part with the sawzall lol!
So assuming one was to follow the proper way of pressing everything out with a press (which is the hardest part about this job), what is the minimum size press that's enough to do the job? Would 20 tons be enough?
So assuming one was to follow the proper way of pressing everything out with a press (which is the hardest part about this job), what is the minimum size press that's enough to do the job? Would 20 tons be enough?
mtbtim
Elite Member
Yes, a 20 ton press does the job just fine. I used a Harbor Freight 20 ton press to press out front hubs and wheel bearings 3 times.
Mine doesn’t spin when i putted back together.
It was a little difficult to put te abs rotor (it didn’t passed free the first hub bump) once it passed it was free.
The problem was when I re assembly the spacer, this one never felt free spin.
I don’t now if is q life death situation because when you put back together it will be lock because the tork of the cv axel nut.
Start over will cost me a new bearing, new hub (preventive), new spacer and new abs rotor because i don’t know what is making the spacer don’t freely rotates with play.
Sorry about my english, I am an italian leaving in Miami and new arround here.
Thank you
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
If your saying that the hub doesn't spin then you most certainly did something wrong. The only part you would need to replace again if you took it apart would be the $60 bearing. (that's what I paid 3 years ago so it probably a little more)
I know this is an old thread, and I also know I have not written in this forum for a long time. However, I still read it.
I just wanted to quickly add a few things from my experience. I just did this job two nights ago. It took about 3 hours. I thought it was relatively easy.
-First of all, I think this video is extremely helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LId0MgZ37OA
-I used the hub assembly from Bluepitbearings.com. I know it is on the expensive side, but he uses quality materials, has excellent reviews and his turnaround was immediate. I contacted him on Thursday, he got back to me right away, placed the order on Thursday. Had the hubs delivered on Monday, and replaced on Tuesday (one side).
-The only comments I will add to the video are:
--Don't hit the axle with the nut to hard because you can damage the outer thread of the nut. It happened to me so I had to spend some time with a file fixing it. Or just make really sure that the nut and axle are flat and you hit flat as well, of just place a piece of flat steel in between.
--When removing the bearing, in my case, I was beating the hub very hard back and forth, but it was not moving. Then I grabbed one of my big bearing pullers and it worked like a charm. The puller is from the Harbor Freight puller kit, nothing to fancy.
That's it. Without the small issues above it would have taken me 2-2.5 hours, including setup and cleanup.
I just wanted to quickly add a few things from my experience. I just did this job two nights ago. It took about 3 hours. I thought it was relatively easy.
-First of all, I think this video is extremely helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LId0MgZ37OA
-I used the hub assembly from Bluepitbearings.com. I know it is on the expensive side, but he uses quality materials, has excellent reviews and his turnaround was immediate. I contacted him on Thursday, he got back to me right away, placed the order on Thursday. Had the hubs delivered on Monday, and replaced on Tuesday (one side).
-The only comments I will add to the video are:
--Don't hit the axle with the nut to hard because you can damage the outer thread of the nut. It happened to me so I had to spend some time with a file fixing it. Or just make really sure that the nut and axle are flat and you hit flat as well, of just place a piece of flat steel in between.
--When removing the bearing, in my case, I was beating the hub very hard back and forth, but it was not moving. Then I grabbed one of my big bearing pullers and it worked like a charm. The puller is from the Harbor Freight puller kit, nothing to fancy.
That's it. Without the small issues above it would have taken me 2-2.5 hours, including setup and cleanup.
Last edited:
Rockdawg84
New member
The video above and the link above are for 4th gen and up. The bearings and hub on a 3rd gen are pressed into the steering knuckle and infinitely harder to remove than 4th gen. The bearing themselves are pretty cheap but there is no way around not needing a press. If someone has managed to do this any other way I would love to hear it. I think mtbtim's video is the best portrayal of what it takes (even though they're swapping hubs). I ended up taking my knuckle assembly to a machine shop and having them press it out. He told me they had to use 30t of force to press the old one out on one side...
Smog-guy707
New member
Just did mine today. I was able to reuse everything but the new bearing. I know having a press is not reasonable for everyone but it does not cost too much to have your local machinist press it in and out for you.
A torch and a saw or not on the list for the tools I want to whip out unless I absolutely have to
But great write up
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A torch and a saw or not on the list for the tools I want to whip out unless I absolutely have to
But great write up
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jidaran
New member
The knuckle itself goes for about $400, the rest of the parts required add up to $200. So you're looking at $600 per side, for parts alone.
I wondering if this is something that might be ok to buy used. Maybe not from a pick and pull, but someone parting out a truck that you have reason to trust.
I wondering if this is something that might be ok to buy used. Maybe not from a pick and pull, but someone parting out a truck that you have reason to trust.
