thezentree
Senior Member
Welp, all the vent lines pass air easily. Still fighting this fkn thing though.
I'm not sure what the next step is besides throwing parts at it.
Fuel tank not venting, even with vent hose disconnected. Need help!
- Thread starter thezentree
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Welp, all the vent lines pass air easily. Still fighting this fkn thing though.
I'm not sure what the next step is besides throwing parts at it.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Crap. Maybe the exhaust leak just melted the internals of your charcoal canister. Then you just need a pick and pull replacement. :/
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Check out the eBay seller kabuki-jp
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thezentree
Senior Member
It may have. This thing has 260k on it, so it might just be aged out.
What I’m wondering though is does the tank vent through the charcoal canister for filling? I think what Bad Luck said earlier about the tank venting through the filler neck is accurate.
Edit:
The two circles here, not the “vent hose”. One of the vents in the filler neck is plumbed to that weird diaphragm valve in the top of the rollover valve, and the other (circled here) is plumbed directly into the top of the tank.
I disconnected the circled line above the axle and put high pressure air on it, in both directions, and could hear it coming out the open filler neck, and towards the tank I could hear it sloshing gas around, so it’s obviously passing air into the tank.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
I haven't fully disgusted the late model 3rd gens evap box. Mine looked like any say it was going to rust into a pile of parts. So I got one when I had complete rear axle housing shipped back along the skids. Filler neck. Hitch. Rear hatch Seal and cut off rear quarter panels from CA.
From what I can remember. It had a pile of hoses on it with a few going to the tank and filler neck. 2 aluminum 1/2 lines going to the front of the rig. All kinds of relays etc.
I recall looking at 3 diagrams to make sure I got all the hoses connected properly and was very greatful when I fired it up I had zero cel lights on.
I wish I could be more help to you on this but unfortunately, I don't have enough experience with that evap system to pinpoint things...
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From what I can remember. It had a pile of hoses on it with a few going to the tank and filler neck. 2 aluminum 1/2 lines going to the front of the rig. All kinds of relays etc.
I recall looking at 3 diagrams to make sure I got all the hoses connected properly and was very greatful when I fired it up I had zero cel lights on.
I wish I could be more help to you on this but unfortunately, I don't have enough experience with that evap system to pinpoint things...
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
Brake Drum from Hell: Update
Hi all, thanks to everyone for the advice. Here's an update to that brake drum issue I was having the other day.
After playing around with the star adjuster a little more, I realized that even when the lever is removed, the bolt is so gunked up that I can barely get it to move anyway. So I tried to grind the brake shoe pins off the back of the drum. I got one off, but the grinder was too big to get to the other and I didn't want to damage the parking brake. I decided to go with the nuclear option and cut the drum off.
The process of cutting the drum was surprisingly easy. It took maybe 20 minutes of total cut time, before finishing it off with a prybar. When I finally got a look inside, my struggles were validated.
Brake Drum Shenanigans - Album on Imgur
Here are the two brake drums for comparison. The right one was identical to the FSM diagrams, while the left side had a completely different setup. Not only is the lever on the rear side rather than the forward, but it is behind the shoes rather than in front. In addition, there is no tab to press to move the arm; instead, the tab must be moved directly away from the star piece before adjusting. Figuring that out while not being able to see anything was never going to happen.
But now I have two brake drums off, so life can go on! There's a ton of gunk and what looks to me like fiberglass in the drum, so I think I'll clean it up, put new shoes and drums on, and take it to a mechanic to diagnose a fluid leak.
Hi all, thanks to everyone for the advice. Here's an update to that brake drum issue I was having the other day.
After playing around with the star adjuster a little more, I realized that even when the lever is removed, the bolt is so gunked up that I can barely get it to move anyway. So I tried to grind the brake shoe pins off the back of the drum. I got one off, but the grinder was too big to get to the other and I didn't want to damage the parking brake. I decided to go with the nuclear option and cut the drum off.
The process of cutting the drum was surprisingly easy. It took maybe 20 minutes of total cut time, before finishing it off with a prybar. When I finally got a look inside, my struggles were validated.
Brake Drum Shenanigans - Album on Imgur
Here are the two brake drums for comparison. The right one was identical to the FSM diagrams, while the left side had a completely different setup. Not only is the lever on the rear side rather than the forward, but it is behind the shoes rather than in front. In addition, there is no tab to press to move the arm; instead, the tab must be moved directly away from the star piece before adjusting. Figuring that out while not being able to see anything was never going to happen.
But now I have two brake drums off, so life can go on! There's a ton of gunk and what looks to me like fiberglass in the drum, so I think I'll clean it up, put new shoes and drums on, and take it to a mechanic to diagnose a fluid leak.
You have a rear axle seal leaking causing gear oil to contaminate the rear shoes/drum. It looks like the adjuster on the left side is 180 degrees in the wrong direction, but it's been a while since I've looked at my drum brakes. Make sure your bell cranks for the parking brake are moving correctly. If I was you I would get a new hardware kit and new adjusters.
I would recommend getting the axle seal leak fixed first otherwise you are most likely going to get gear oil on the shoes/drum again and have to replace the shoes again.
The fiberglass you are seeing is the brake shoe friction material mixed with gear oil.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
[MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] nailed it for you [MENTION=717331]MartinDa[/MENTION]
You do realize you posted this in a totally different thread though, right?
You do realize you posted this in a totally different thread though, right?
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thezentree
Senior Member
Figured it out.
The rubber flex hose between the tank and the filler neck has some kind of liner that separated from the ID of the hose and halfway blocked it.
New hose and I’m good to go. ONLY TOOK ME TWO MONTHS….
The rubber flex hose between the tank and the filler neck has some kind of liner that separated from the ID of the hose and halfway blocked it.
New hose and I’m good to go. ONLY TOOK ME TWO MONTHS….
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Check out the eBay seller kabuki-jp
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(Plus I have 2 of those sitting in the parts depot one for a 1998 and another for a 1999..
)The OP is a late model evap system even the diagram he showed us shows that..;-)
thezentree
Senior Member
(Plus I have 2 of those sitting in the parts depot one for a 1998 and another for a 1999..
The OP is a late model evap system even the diagram he showed us shows that..;-)
I’m glad to have the kabuki.JP link though. Will definitely keep that in my back pocket.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Is so easy on the style of forum to do that. I don't think the poster realized they posted on the wrong thread. :/
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19963.4lsr5
New member
thezentree
Senior Member
Oh cool, let's spend more money.
19963.4lsr5
New member
The brake will drag and it won’t gravity bleed very well.
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RBs4R
New member
RBs4R
New member
Thx! :yo:
What are your symptoms? I’m also having issues with pumping gas, with codes 0441 and 0446. I’ve replaced the purge valves and I bought the overfill check valve but haven’t replaced it yet.
I also unplugged that 1” black plastic hose that runs from the check valve to the canister and still have the gas pumping issues. It was my understanding that that may be the tank vent hose and would rule out a faulty canister, but I don’t really know.
I just ordered a borescope off Amazon for 30 bucks to check my fill hose. I honestly hope that’s what it is, since dropping the tank to replace the check valve seems like a real PITA.
