Fuel Tank Strap Replacement Tutorial (60+ Pictures)
- Thread starter y=mx+b
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y=mx+b
New member
Dude that's awesome! Great work and saving money is always great too!
I used this guide when I was upgrading my skid to an RCI skid, and seeing how well this was put together I replaced my straps too. Mine wasn't an issue yet, with only one spot getting a little crunchy, but I'm glad I did.
I ended up breaking one of the frame bolts so now it matches the existing missing bolt head from when I bought it (1st and 3rd from front). I've considered buying a welder after seeing how y=mx+b has recovered bolts welding on a nut, but I'm not sure if the tank being right there is a concern. Maybe I just need to wrap some foil on it lol
I ended up breaking one of the frame bolts so now it matches the existing missing bolt head from when I bought it (1st and 3rd from front). I've considered buying a welder after seeing how y=mx+b has recovered bolts welding on a nut, but I'm not sure if the tank being right there is a concern. Maybe I just need to wrap some foil on it lol
y=mx+b
New member
If you're welding a nut bolt near the tank, you can cover it in a leather or fiberglass fire blanket. Closet one I welded was the bolt on the rear brake line bracket right above the tank, although this one still had the head, it was just rounded off. If it is one of the tank skid bolts, it is kinda hard to weld a nut on what is left while upside down. I've found drilling the whole thing out and replacing with a flanged weld-nut is easier
onthompson
New member
Very helpful post! May need to do this at some point soon.
I wasn't sure if doing a weld inside a nut while upside was possible- I hoped it would be at least. If drilling it out, why is a weld-nut better than just cleaning the threads and adding a new bolt?
y=mx+b
New member
If you don't drill it out perfectly centered, then you can eat into the threads with the drill and it won't hold the bolt as well. That's what happened to me, so my threads were messed up and it was easier to weld in a new threaded weld nut
y=mx+b
New member
Yes they have a little flange. Not really a big deal for skid or tank strap fitment. It's not something with tight tolerances like inside an engine or something
Has anyone tried just knocking out the pin from the strap buckle so you don't have to attempt removing crusty bolts? Leave the old buckle attached while only changing the strap. The pin and clip that's used on the other side seems to be of a similar size and you'd be able to use it. While searching for other tutorials, ran into a Tacoma one that actually used the same set-up as on the other side (pin + clip) to secure it into the buckle instead of a crimp/press fit. Just trying to avoid any potential headaches as I've seen other individuals run into.
Might call me crazy but where I live if I buy a new vehicle or nearly new vehicle I put it up on my hoist and remove every bolt I can one at a time and antizeze and reinstall might take me an hour tops but saves me hours and hours of time and frustration down the road , did all the gas tank skid plate and strap bolts when it was bran new cause I knew the day would come , track bar bolts , shock bolts …. Every bolt easy pezy ya don’t even gota take em all the way out just half or 3/4 out and slap the antiseze to the treads with the little brush , goes pretty quick with a 3/8 impact
AuSeeker
Elite Member
What about proper torquing of these bolts?
For anyone who ends up replacing these in the future and ends up shearing off the head of the tank strap bolts due to rust/corrosion, do not bother trying to extract it. Purchase a punch/chisel set and with a 3lb-4lb hammer and remove the welded nut instead. Then, drop in a nut with newly purchased bolts.
its where ya can't see that gets ya , the bottom of the tank is where water/salt sits on top of strap under rubber cover and incubates , ya can't see it because skid plate is in way
well of course I re-torque any important bolt , ie.. track bar , control arms etc but any of the little 12mm bolts nope just finish with a wrench after impact to ensure they are snug
Well done Sir! As a technical writer for more than 40 years, I know, and appreciate, all the effort that went into this! Consumables - awesome, who does that these days!
Just this morning, I noticed the fuel tank sagging on my 2004 4Runner, it just completed it's 19th Wisconsin winter and try as I might with thorough flushings, things underneath have been causing problems the past 5 years. The first thing I did was support the tank with straps and then soaked the hardware with penetrating oil. Then, I found your tutorial and read it completely. Gotta' go now for parts but keep up the great work!
I just hope the bolts don't break!
Just this morning, I noticed the fuel tank sagging on my 2004 4Runner, it just completed it's 19th Wisconsin winter and try as I might with thorough flushings, things underneath have been causing problems the past 5 years. The first thing I did was support the tank with straps and then soaked the hardware with penetrating oil. Then, I found your tutorial and read it completely. Gotta' go now for parts but keep up the great work!
I just hope the bolts don't break!
