Fuel Tank Strap Replacement Tutorial (60+ Pictures)
- Thread starter y=mx+b
- Start date
Well, I finally collected all the required parts and mustered up the will to work on it today, only to have two skid plate bolts and one strap bolt break on me. How exactly would you suggest breaking the welded nut with a hammer/chisel if the welded component is within the frame? Through a teeny hole in the frame?!?
The one pin was a hassle to get my hand up and remove/install, but it got done.
Taking a break from attempting to extract the bolts for the night, letting some PB blaster soak in.
The hardest part of the process was attempting to slip a ratchet strap between the skid plate and the tank. I didn't have enough space, so I cut a piece of wood to hold up the tank on the broken strap side (rear strap) with my bottle jack, while I slowly lowered the skid plate. In the end, there wasn't enough gas in the tank to allow the rear end to sag down and break anything, but it was still supported just in case.
rear strap is installed and bolted up, front strap has been replaced with a wratchet strap holding the tank until I can get the broken bolt out in order to fully install the front strap.
Tomorrow is going to be a fun day working on my back to try to remove the bolts without damaging the threads on the frame.
Attachments
Last edited:
Tack weld on one skid plate bolt broke when I was trying to unscrew the remaining bolt after I had drilled through the center of the broken bolt.
Tack weld on the nut of the front gas tank strap also broke when I was trying to hammer and chisel the protruding broken bolt loose.
One more broken skid plate bolt left, but I'm just going to leave that alone.
*sigh* Always breaking things when I try to fix something.
Figured it out, McGuyvering this sh*t, will post update after the job is done.
Last edited:
Well, after booking an appointment with the 4Runner specialty shop here in town, they didn't have any openings until next month, so I had some time to think about this job.
I rummaged through my garage and found an adapter for the wire cup attachment for my angle grinder. It had an adapter included that was a 5/16"-10 to M10-1.25.
So I punched out all the tack-welded nuts from within the frame, widened the hole for the gas tank strap bolt, and inserted the adapter in there to act as the nut.
I welded that and two nuts for the gas tank skid plate to the frame as well. There was no way I was going to fish the nuts inside the frame with whatever tool (coat hanger, magnetic tool, etc...) since there is so much crud/sand in there, plus the fact that I wouldn't be able to weld them in place.
Since they're attached to the exterior of the frame, it's going in create a small gap when the strap & skid plate are attached, but it's the best I can do to get the items back into place.
Wire cup adapter for the win! Cancelled my appointment with the shop and saved $500 in labour.
Welding overhead, next to the gas tank itself was a little strenuous.
I rummaged through my garage and found an adapter for the wire cup attachment for my angle grinder. It had an adapter included that was a 5/16"-10 to M10-1.25.
So I punched out all the tack-welded nuts from within the frame, widened the hole for the gas tank strap bolt, and inserted the adapter in there to act as the nut.
I welded that and two nuts for the gas tank skid plate to the frame as well. There was no way I was going to fish the nuts inside the frame with whatever tool (coat hanger, magnetic tool, etc...) since there is so much crud/sand in there, plus the fact that I wouldn't be able to weld them in place.
Since they're attached to the exterior of the frame, it's going in create a small gap when the strap & skid plate are attached, but it's the best I can do to get the items back into place.
Wire cup adapter for the win! Cancelled my appointment with the shop and saved $500 in labour.
Welding overhead, next to the gas tank itself was a little strenuous.
Attachments
Anyone reading this in the future. Get an induction heater and the rusty bolts come out so much easier. Also work them back and forth once they crack lose. Back it out until you hit decent resistance and then drive it back in. Each time the bolt comes out a little further. You can do it with an impact if you are careful and watch it close. Spray the inside of the frame on the nuts with penetrating oil. Take your time with these methods and you won’t snap any bolts.
Drakethefirst
Junior Member
I just finished mine last week and did a video. All the other ones I watched seemed to have skid plates that were totally gone so i couldn't see where the bolts were.
Just did this. 1 of my hangers was still good so I skipped the ratchet strap thing altogether. Not needed. Also the vent line to the charcoal canister in the rear can hold up the back half by itself if the tank is on E.
Another idea I had; the tank has bits of sheet metal attached to it. You could run a sheet metal screw into a couple spots and then use galvanized wire to hang the tank, also avoiding the ratchet strap concept.
Another idea I had; the tank has bits of sheet metal attached to it. You could run a sheet metal screw into a couple spots and then use galvanized wire to hang the tank, also avoiding the ratchet strap concept.
