Or you could get a 4Runner with the 3rd row...
FYI. $8 mod. Rear seats come out with quick release pins for 6-10" more cargo length.
- Thread starter litebrite
- Start date
Or you could get a 4Runner with the 3rd row...
Ryan_S
New member
How does that add cargo space
Anyway. I re-read the thread and saw that you can remove the seats, I wonder if you could just pin the bolts and use a washer instead of the nut. I'll have to take mine apart tonight and experiment.
I'd like to pull the seat bottom out and leave the seatback up. Used to do that in my Cherokee and it made for tons of room. Plus it keeps the dog in the way back.
How does that add cargo space
Anyway. I re-read the thread and saw that you can remove the seats, I wonder if you could just pin the bolts and use a washer instead of the nut. I'll have to take mine apart tonight and experiment.
I'd like to pull the seat bottom out and leave the seatback up. Used to do that in my Cherokee and it made for tons of room. Plus it keeps the dog in the way back.
While the 3rd row option doesn't actually add cargo space since the deck sits higher, the 2nd row seats do lay completely flat which gets rid of the portion of the seat sticking up that the OP is trying to get rid of. See his side/side pics in the first post for reference.
Ryan_S
New member
Um. No.
The pics show the seat bottom being removed. even if you have the third row you still have to tote the second row's seat bottom around when the second row seat backs are folded down. Some vehicles allow you to quickly remove the second row's seat bottom (instead of folding them forward) to give you more cargo space.
By adding the third row you're losing cargo space, since the floor area in the way back is much higher.
Um. No idea what you're talking about "tote the second row's seat bottom around when the second row seat backs are folded down." Go back and look at the pictures and tell me they're not showing a 3rd row folded down.
I made your second point in the post you quoted. You're not actually gaining volume with the 3rd row. You are gaining vertical space because the 2nd row folds flat.
I found a new way that doesn't require cutting anything using the bottom bolt which is removable not the welded hinge pin.
Unfortunately modifying the bottom bolt may raise some safety issues because the seat may not be as securely attached, but you can always replace the factory bolt putting it back to factory spec.
Pretty much all the ideas share a single solution. Bolt something to the seat arm base and something to the floor where these two somethings can attach securely and remove quickly.
Unfortunately modifying the bottom bolt may raise some safety issues because the seat may not be as securely attached, but you can always replace the factory bolt putting it back to factory spec.
Pretty much all the ideas share a single solution. Bolt something to the seat arm base and something to the floor where these two somethings can attach securely and remove quickly.
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Successful!
I'll be updating with more photos as I test more ideas. Gained 1 foot more length. I'm still searching for the proper bracket. Almost done.
The seats will function normally, flip up and forward just like it did before I modified it except now I have the option to remove completely in under 5 seconds by sliding out 2 pins from the cradle. I need a stronger cradle (bracket). Once I find one from the hardware store I'll post finished photos and instruction how to duplicate.
Finally removed the plastic from the seat arms to see the other end my self. Yes the hinge pin is definitely not easily removable and welded in place. I'll stay with the bracket cradle idea that I'm working on now.
This is the plastic removed from the seat arms. It popped straight apart using a screwdriver. Needed to use a little force. There's no point in removing the plastic to see the other end of the hinge pin on your 4Runner as the hinge pin is welded on the other end as seen above.
I have not yet shown completed photos of the cradle I'm testing. Still looking for a better one. It will be simple and inexpensive once I find the proper fitting bracket.
I'll be updating with more photos as I test more ideas. Gained 1 foot more length. I'm still searching for the proper bracket. Almost done.
The seats will function normally, flip up and forward just like it did before I modified it except now I have the option to remove completely in under 5 seconds by sliding out 2 pins from the cradle. I need a stronger cradle (bracket). Once I find one from the hardware store I'll post finished photos and instruction how to duplicate.
Finally removed the plastic from the seat arms to see the other end my self. Yes the hinge pin is definitely not easily removable and welded in place. I'll stay with the bracket cradle idea that I'm working on now.
This is the plastic removed from the seat arms. It popped straight apart using a screwdriver. Needed to use a little force. There's no point in removing the plastic to see the other end of the hinge pin on your 4Runner as the hinge pin is welded on the other end as seen above.
I have not yet shown completed photos of the cradle I'm testing. Still looking for a better one. It will be simple and inexpensive once I find the proper fitting bracket.
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Just throwing it out there... but have you considered getting a factory bracket identical to the one you're messing with/trying to replace with hardware store parts out of a wrecked 4Runner (just cutting it out of the vehicle with a torch) and modifying it? It might be a good place to start rather than using hardware store parts which may not be up to snuff when you think about how random some of those pieces are.
If you can build a better mousetrap using original pieces (which should be up to the safety standard since they are originals afterall) but you aren't screwing up your setup that is in your vehicle, then it may be something that you can have produced based on your prototype and sell to others who might be interested. Especially if it is a bolt-in type of a set or it is something that hooks on to the current bracket (but you do your testing on an isolated bracket that has been cut out of a wreck).
Just an idea. I've seen this done with parts on other vehicles, especially vehicles that have a following (like the 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Miata, MR2, my old DSM Eclipse, etc. etc.). If I'm not making any sense then I apologize.
If you can build a better mousetrap using original pieces (which should be up to the safety standard since they are originals afterall) but you aren't screwing up your setup that is in your vehicle, then it may be something that you can have produced based on your prototype and sell to others who might be interested. Especially if it is a bolt-in type of a set or it is something that hooks on to the current bracket (but you do your testing on an isolated bracket that has been cut out of a wreck).
Just an idea. I've seen this done with parts on other vehicles, especially vehicles that have a following (like the 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Miata, MR2, my old DSM Eclipse, etc. etc.). If I'm not making any sense then I apologize.
SeattleMike
New member
Why are you going to all this effort when a flat head screw driver and a (12mm?) socket gets the same result? Just pop the covers, remove the bolts holding the pivot point to the floor and pull the seat bottoms out. Done.
Taco04
Member
I am 6'2" and I can sleep perfectly with my 5' wife in the rear with the lower seats removed but I never stretch out much when I sleep. @ 6'5" if you sleep by your self at an angle you will probably be ok but I would make sure and test it out before hand.
PS if you plan on sleeping in extreme cold areas ditch the air mattress since they suck for keeping you warm.
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boyfester
New member
I slept in the back last week with an air bed but I had to slam the hatch pretty hard to get it to close. I also had to put some cushions over the upright seats since they have exposed steel clasps that aren't too comfortable to rest your head on. I'm looking forward in removing the seats now. Anytime I get too cold in a car, I just start it up and run the heater for a while. Problem solved.
Sgt. Rock
Member
Years ago, I had a Jeep Cherokee Chief (2 dr). I unbolted the rear seat and made a wood platform to go between the rear deck and front seats. covered it with some carpet and had lots of rom to sleep. I haven't tried this with the 4Runner. It might be a PITA, but for a trip where you don't want to pitch a tent, if you can unbolt the rear seat and seat back, it might be an option. We are going to try to go WEST this summer (Yellowstone, Canyon Lands etc) and a sleeping space might come in handy. I'm going to check out the "unbolt" options when this NJ Spring snow clears-up!
