Gauging Interest In 3rd Gen Projector Retrofits (very small # to be made)

[BrianSD_42]

Hey everyone,

I'm going to be making a few retrofits, at least 2 in the next month and possibly a few more later on. If you are interested in getting these for less check out the DIY threads here on T4R!

These will be very similar to the ones documented in my DIY retrofit thread:
* http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...it-97-4runner-project-toyota-4runner-org.html

The first of two will be a square retrofit, almost identical to the one in MTD's thread but without the halo. I couldn't affordably add a square halo but the buyer can add it after the fact very easily. Then 2nd is a round projector with a white halo and Gatling shrouds.

Each retrofit will match these specifications:
* Painted Gloss Graphite shrouds and housings
* TRS Morimoto D2S Mini v3 projectors with clear lens
* 35W Morimoto Ballasts
* 5500K Morimoto D2S Bulbs or Phillips Bulb (I have 1 set of each)
* New TYC housings with a couple of personal upgrades to make them last
* Housings are slightly modified to fit the retrofit but no major drilling
* Alignment is not an issue since these are (highest quality) bolt on vs FX-R

Upgrades include:
* Longer breathing tube with cotton filter to keep out dust
* Screws JB-Welded in so they don't come loose (otherwise they will)
* Silicone glue on one of the components so it stays in place longer

These changes are all things I had to do on my retrofit so it would last properly. I learned the hard way; mine slightly broke on me so I fixed it. You get the fixes from the beginning.

These retrofits will stand up to moderate offroading. Look at my build thread if you want to see the kind of offroading I've done. They will not survive you driving off a cliff and might not survive jumping multiple feet on the rocks. Still, they are very sturdy and if you follow my thread you'll see I've given my own set a lot of use.

What are you paying for?
* Parts (everything, including the wiring harnesses)
* Labor (5-6 hours per set)
* Shipping (probably $50-$60 per set) unless you are in SoCal


What labor?
* Baking the lights and taking them apart and again to put them back together
* Dremmel cutting the housings so Mini D2S v3 fit and align properly
* Sanding the housings
* Sanding shrouds
* Taping the housings
* Painting the housings and shrouds (primer 2 coats, paint 2 coats, clear 1 coat)
* Assembling the projectors putting it all together
* Op testing lights


Methods of payment:
* Paypal
* Please note I'm not interested in trades, just cash.

Price:
To be finalized after the retrofit is completed but each should be at least $650.

If you are interested please leave a comment in this thread.


What will it look like? [UPDATE]
Actually the 1st one will look a lot like MTD's retrofit just without the active halo.
Direct Link ---> http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-jeremy-clarkson-james-may-5.html#post1794227
* Same projector
* Same shroud
* Same paint


Pics
The 1st pic is from my personal retrofit but it gives you an idea of the quality. The next pics of from the 1st set that will be for sale. I should have it finished in the next 24 hours.


:tea:

 

[CentralFL4Runner]

What's the price range you're thinking about?

 

[BrianSD_42]

What's the price range you're thinking about?

Excellent question.

I would estimate at least $650 + 2.9% paypal fees (unless you pay with a check or local $$$) + shipping.

I would accept a check (from members with over 250 post count) but shipping would be delayed 2-3 weeks while the check clears.

They will likely be a bit more for the ones with the halo.

I previously sold a set for this much so for the moment I think the pricing is fair.

 

[JayRolla]

Excellent question.

I would estimate at least $650 + 2.9% paypal fees (unless you pay in local $$$) + shipping.

Possibly a bit more for the ones with the halo.

I previously sold a set for this much and am not worried about the pricing.

Little pricey for my blood. And he didnt ask if you where worried, just wanted to know price range. LOL.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Little pricey for my blood. And he didnt ask if you where worried, just wanted to know price range. LOL.

All good. I know there are more affordable options out there but those usually are for unpainted housings. Painting it properly is about half the labor.

AWilson's work looks pretty good as well. I wish him the best with his sales.

I'm only making a few of these because I just don't have that much free time.

I bought the parts for these 2 retrofits several months ago and I'm just now getting to it.

 

[Rjsimeon]

subbing for final product.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Those look good, Brian. Good luck with your sales.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Thanks. You too. Perhaps this or another thread can help with the DIY'rs as well.

Here are 3 more pics from just this afternoon. These show the dremmeling and how I lined it up for the install.


1st picture below

I dremmeled the light so that there was enough room to install light. This is very apparent if you have it sitting in front of you. I marked the 3 alignment points with a sharpie. It is very obvious which one is the top since it has that little inside notch. Then I JB-Welded it in place and let it sit over night.


2nd picture below

I installed the light by screwing it in place using the easy mounting nut that TRS provides for the light assembly. Because I JB-Welded the mounting ring in place the day before it did not move throughout the process.



See the 3rd picture below.

It is highly important to JB-Weld this screw in. I did this by first removing the screw, scuffing the area up a bit and then putting JB-Weld in the hole and around the screw.

Why? Because with both my TYC lights that screw came loose after a year.

 

[D Farms]

i keep breaking the ball joint on my headlights, im thinking about getting some small heims haha, maybe ill do a 3 link.

 

[TXRick]

Yeah, but I've got kinda unique situation.

 

[BrianSD_42]

i keep breaking the ball joint on my headlights, im thinking about getting some small heims haha, maybe ill do a 3 link.

Which joint? The one I posted a picture of?

 

[D Farms]

yes, its actually the outer part that keeps breaking. I may just machine out of aluminum a socket for the ball.

 

[paulmofyourhand]

man, the 4runner can't catch a break with ball joints.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Picture of the cutoff. It looks better than my FX-Rs. Perhaps that is because of 2 years of 4 wheeling the FXRs.

See below. It is at an angle only because I was holding it in my hand and the ballast connector is pretty short.

 

[MTD]

Lot of threads like this cropping up lately GLWS!

 

[BrianSD_42]

Finished product !

 

[BrianSD_42]

And ....

 

[A.Wilson013]

And ....

Those look good, Brian. I cannot decide if I like those projectors or not. Is there a reason you went with them? Just to test them out, perhaps?

 

[BrianSD_42]

Those look good, Brian. I cannot decide if I like those projectors or not. Is there a reason you went with them? Just to test them out, perhaps?

Haha well you're not the target audience. I liked them on MTDs truck. The paint isn't so dark in the daylight.

What do you think about the mounting method? Did I do it the same way as you? I find that using the JB Weld to set the mounting bracket works really well.

BTW the other set I'm going to make is round, the Gatling Shroud, with a white halo.

At this point I'm only making these two. Perhaps I'll do another 2 after the next New Years sale at TRS.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Haha well you're not the target audience. I liked them on MTDs truck. The paint isn't so dark in the daylight.

What do you think about the mounting method? Did I do it the same way as you? I find that using the JB Weld to set the mounting bracket works really well.

BTW the other set I'm going to make is round, the Gatling Shroud, with a white halo.

At this point I'm only making these two. Perhaps I'll do another 2 after the next New Years sale at TRS.

=p

I think your mounting method is a good idea. On my next set I plan to use the JB weld on those points like you did. The only things I do different are that I place that large washer over the alignment ring to make it easier to really cinch that lock nut down tight, and I utilize that rectangular hole at the 3 o'clock position to route the wires through.

Here's the back of one of [MENTION=88597]MyHigh[/MENTION]'s that I did a couple of weeks ago. As you can see I also count how many turns it takes to dismantle... I find that it gets the aiming of the light to be PRETTY close.