Gear Ratios, Lockers... Opinions needed.

[Diezel]

Ok, so I frizzle fried my brain looking for info.

2001 4Runner, 305/70/16's. Not a daily driver. See's highway miles, and lots of trails..... Mostly blue to red trails.

So I'm thinking 4.56's. The next question is, I'd like to do an E-Locker, and I really don't feel like swapping a 99 axle, or cutting my 01 axle to fit the toyota unit. An Eaton E-locker would be nice, but I didn't see a model for my rig.

Opinions?

 

[KidVermicious]

Do not fear the gear. 4.88s at least, unless you're planning on upgrading the 5vze.

What's wrong with swapping a housing or modifying the one you have? Either is going to cost you a lot less than an ARB or Zip, which are your other selectable options. You could always run a lunchbox, a Spartan will cost you $250-$300 and install in an hour or two, probably the best bang for the buck in terms of adding traction on a third gen.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Do not fear the gear. 4.88s at least, unless you're planning on upgrading the 5vze.

What's wrong with swapping a housing or modifying the one you have? Either is going to cost you a lot less than an ARB or Zip, which are your other selectable options. You could always run a lunchbox, a Spartan will cost you $250-$300 and install in an hour or two, probably the best bang for the buck in terms of adding traction on a third gen.

What he said, I run 4.88's with 315/70R 16 on my L/C and even with V8 power I could use a little more gear.

Eaton is probably the only e-locker option other than OE. Far better to go OE in my eternally humble opinion. Oh wait, I'm not humble. Nope, just get the Damn Toyota part!!!

:iagree:

 

[SamSter0077]

Do not fear the gear. 4.88s at least, unless you're planning on upgrading the 5vze.

What's wrong with swapping a housing or modifying the one you have? Either is going to cost you a lot less than an ARB or Zip, which are your other selectable options. You could always run a lunchbox, a Spartan will cost you $250-$300 and install in an hour or two, probably the best bang for the buck in terms of adding traction on a third gen.

I agree on the 4.88, it's worked out very well for me. I have been daily driving 255/85/16 with a lockright in the rear end for 30k miles. It will change the way you drive and eat the tires when turning.. I have KM2's and it has knocked off quite a few of the lugs.. some on the trails but I feel most on the regular streets when I turn and give it gas.

I would figure out how to do Elocker in the back if I had it to do over again. I am thinking about making that change now.. if you go lunchbox locker in the back, make sure your diff is built well..

 

[KidVermicious]

I have been daily driving 255/85/16 with a lockright in the rear end for 30k miles. It will change the way you drive and eat the tires when turning.. I have KM2's and it has knocked off quite a few of the lugs.. .

Must be driving style. I dailied mine with a Spartan and skinny KM2s for two years, didn't get any more wear on the rears than I did the front. I definitely didn't tear any lugs off.

 

[SamSter0077]

Must be driving style. I dailied mine with a Spartan and skinny KM2s for two years, didn't get any more wear on the rears than I did the front. I definitely didn't tear any lugs off.

It might be driving style, I wheel it pretty hard and the truck looks pretty beat now-a-days.. Almost every single lug has a stretch/cut mark at the base on each side.. like it's been flexing too far and is tearing the rubber. I have had these tires for almost 4 years.. I'll take a picture later and try and post it up.

Did yours squeal or make the little "chirp" noise like it was slipping on the street when turning? Mine does almost every time I take a 90° turn with my foot on the gas. It could also be the type of locker, mine it about the cheapest locker out there..

EDIT: KidVermicious, is yours a 4cyl?

 

[tx_shooter]

I know my '87 4R with 33x12.50x15s and a Spartan locker in the back. I drive it on the street a bit around the neighborhood and it scrubs/chirps a bit with just a 22RE. I do not think I would run it with a V6.

I am looking to put a locker in my current DD - 2001 4R V6 - and will be going selectable.

 

[white_n_slow]

To the OP:

My opinion is 4.88 and a toyota e-locked complete axle. It'll just bolt in place, super simple swap and I believe there is a wiring kit commercially available to get it wired up and working. I don't think 4.56 is worth the re-gear. And with all the people out there running 255/85 or 285/75, your 305's are even heavier, so you of all people would benefit with a little bit deeper gearing.

To samster0077:

You need to modify your driving style a little bit with a lunchbox locker. If you find yourself tearing through tires doing parking lot maneuvers, it means you're using too much gas. Coast through turns and your tires will thank you. V6/4cyl, doesn't matter, the same technique applies.

 

[Aznwolf118]

I went double arbs and 4.56, 285's
Keep in mind mines is supercharged, auto and daily driven. Also mines is a heavy expedition armored pig.

That being said 4.88's would have been a better call, and if it's a dedicated trail rig 5.29's might not be bad
My set up is great for everyday but once loaded and on the trail the extra gear wouldn't hurt.

 

[BrandonF]

As mentioned, swapping in a complete e-locker axle is the easiest and cheapest way to get a selectable locker. After selling my old axle, the upgrade only cost me $275.

 

[KidVermicious]

It might be driving style, I wheel it pretty hard and the truck looks pretty beat now-a-days.. Almost every single lug has a stretch/cut mark at the base on each side.. like it's been flexing too far and is tearing the rubber. I have had these tires for almost 4 years.. I'll take a picture later and try and post it up.

Did yours squeal or make the little "chirp" noise like it was slipping on the street when turning? Mine does almost every time I take a 90° turn with my foot on the gas. It could also be the type of locker, mine it about the cheapest locker out there..

EDIT: KidVermicious, is yours a 4cyl?

22RE. Or it was. When I had to turn sharp I found the best way was to goose it while going straight, then feather the throttle and clutch through the turn. That seemed to keep the chirping and driveline bounce to a minimum.

 

[Oprah]

I went double arbs and 4.56, 285's
Keep in mind mines is supercharged, auto and daily driven. Also mines is a heavy expedition armored pig.

That being said 4.88's would have been a better call, and if it's a dedicated trail rig 5.29's might not be bad
My set up is great for everyday but once loaded and on the trail the extra gear wouldn't hurt.

Do you ever wish you had the extra gear on the road? Specifically highway?

I have skinny 33's and want to regear. I am thinking either 4.56 and S/C, or 4.88 and no S/C. I am worried that downshifting to 3rd at highway speeds with 4.88 will be a little much RPM wise. But no S/C is muuuuuch cheaper haha

 

[SamSter0077]

22RE. Or it was. When I had to turn sharp I found the best way was to goose it while going straight, then feather the throttle and clutch through the turn. That seemed to keep the chirping and driveline bounce to a minimum.

duh, I reread your post "87 4r".. wasn't thinking straight. I am not very nice to my tires, so I guess this is a good example of 30k rough miles on KM2's looks like..

 

[RussToy]

I went double arbs and 4.56, 285's
Keep in mind mines is supercharged, auto and daily driven. Also mines is a heavy expedition armored pig.

That being said 4.88's would have been a better call, and if it's a dedicated trail rig 5.29's might not be bad
My set up is great for everyday but once loaded and on the trail the extra gear wouldn't hurt.

[MENTION=47794]Aznwolf118[/MENTION] Looking for a S/C'ers opinion on gearing. I'm same as you...S/C, auto, and D/D. I'm running an E-locker with 33's. Have plate bumper, skid plates and sliders? My rig sees 80% of its time on the road. Of that time, 75-80% in city, the rest is freeway (65-70mph). No crazy rock crawling, just mud and some hills.

If you had to do it again...Would you still go with 4.56's or go big and drop down to 4.88's?

What RPM's do yall with 33's...see at 70mph with 4.56 and 4.88???

- Russel

 

[Aznwolf118]

My set up with the s/c runs a 2.2 urd and 7th injector, my 285's are the new ko2 but I am not to thrilled with the load rating for daily driving but that's a whole other thing
Had I not have the s/c it's a no brained for 4.88's

Daily driven and my location where most of the trails are about 4-5 hours away I am glad I have the 4.56, rpm is 2.5-2.7k @ 65-70ish.

Full trail rig I would probably be at 4.88 or 5.29. Since I would leave gear and drawers in fulltime

Disclaimer I am not a rock crawler but a remote camper/expedition type rig. My rig sees a lot of stop and go city driving and highways, before it gets to stretch out on trails.

With my set up. Whitson rack, buds, shrockworks, and a cbi rear
The freeways and travel is fine day to day and getting to remote camp locations.

Add in stuff I carry for trips. Arb fridge, gear and rotopax or sometimes rtt
The gas milage while on trail becomes the limiting factor. The stop and go and low gear slow moving is the killer.

Getting to the destinations, my last trip was to yellowstone and the 18 hour drive I was glad i went 4.56. The s/c does well to compliment with 4.56, it still does fine on the hills and not to bad on milage fully loaded. Did the white rim trail fully loaded no probelm, none of the climbs gave me any trouble.

Again mines is daily driving and that's what I took in consideration when I built it. Also I am glad I went dual arb's, having a selectable locker vs a lunch box helps my situation as well.

 

[Diezel]

I appreciate the info guys. I do have a bit of added weight via armor.

Bud Built full skid combo. Trail Gear Bumper, Smitty winch. Totally added some weight. I think I shaved a couple pounds total going from stock rims to Level 8 Strike 6's. But again, I'm looking for some added torque and reduced wheel speed in low gearing. So the 4.88's sounds like the right route to go. I do like the appeal of Expedition runs (check my garage photos, you'll see the setup). So weight, and gear ratios while driving up into the mountains is an important consideration.

I'll look into getting a 99 axle. I do want Selectable lockers. Not sure about doing a front one yet.......

 

[RussToy]

My set up with the s/c runs a 2.2 urd and 7th injector, my 285's are the new ko2 but I am not to thrilled with the load rating for daily driving but that's a whole other thing
Had I not have the s/c it's a no brained for 4.88's

Daily driven and my location where most of the trails are about 4-5 hours away I am glad I have the 4.56, rpm is 2.5-2.7k @ 65-70ish.

Full trail rig I would probably be at 4.88 or 5.29. Since I would leave gear and drawers in fulltime

Disclaimer I am not a rock crawler but a remote camper/expedition type rig. My rig sees a lot of stop and go city driving and highways, before it gets to stretch out on trails.

With my set up. Whitson rack, buds, shrockworks, and a cbi rear
The freeways and travel is fine day to day and getting to remote camp locations.

Add in stuff I carry for trips. Arb fridge, gear and rotopax or sometimes rtt
The gas milage while on trail becomes the limiting factor. The stop and go and low gear slow moving is the killer.

Getting to the destinations, my last trip was to yellowstone and the 18 hour drive I was glad i went 4.56. The s/c does well to compliment with 4.56, it still does fine on the hills and not to bad on milage fully loaded. Did the white rim trail fully loaded no probelm, none of the climbs gave me any trouble.

Again mines is daily driving and that's what I took in consideration when I built it. Also I am glad I went dual arb's, having a selectable locker vs a lunch box helps my situation as well.

Thank you sir for so much detail...that's exactly what I was looking for!! That truly saved me from making an exspensive mistake!!

- Russel