GeoRoss' 1986 4Runner
- Thread starter GeoRoss
- Start date
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Ruby Tuesday and sister are happy to meet another sister.
I have the habit to always remove key from ignition before exiting the truck and always putting on seatbelt upon starting, so Key in IGN does not bother me, and I do not need seatbelt reminder.
Therefore, I merely disconnected the seatbelt switch under the driver's seat. No need to dig into the buzzer mechanism.
When ready to deal with 2-inch lift from OME's, then use the OME springs. For the meantime, I would just do the no-cut, no-weld Zuk using the 3rd gen springs. Bigger ID end fits over the upper bump-stop and smaller ID end fits around the lower bump-stop. IIRC, the 3rd gen spring gives first-gen 4Runner stock height. Lots of discussions on that on Yotatech.
I'm halfway done with mine.
Are you annoyed by the "key ignition buzz" or by the "seatbelt reminder" upon starting?
I have the habit to always remove key from ignition before exiting the truck and always putting on seatbelt upon starting, so Key in IGN does not bother me, and I do not need seatbelt reminder.
Therefore, I merely disconnected the seatbelt switch under the driver's seat. No need to dig into the buzzer mechanism.
my 2 cents...
When ready to deal with 2-inch lift from OME's, then use the OME springs. For the meantime, I would just do the no-cut, no-weld Zuk using the 3rd gen springs. Bigger ID end fits over the upper bump-stop and smaller ID end fits around the lower bump-stop. IIRC, the 3rd gen spring gives first-gen 4Runner stock height. Lots of discussions on that on Yotatech.
Sounds reasonable, but most of your paint looks good. I decided to keep mine and just touch up worn out spots. I had fiberglas cap painted to protect the fiberglas whose fiber had started to show. Inexpensive but decent job for $300.
+1 for vinyl - Lower maintenance and looks cleaner than dust-trapping velour.
I'm halfway done with mine.
Thanks Rad!
Right now I have no buzzer. However I also don't have a dome light with the ds door open. From what I can tell it is from the buzzer being unplugged. The seat belt light circuit is still operational.
I already pulled the trigger on OME springs. I'm trying to decide if I should just install them as is and see how they look or to just pull a leaf from the start.
Your panels look great. I have some trashed full door panels to use as templates. Did you glue? I'm looking into how to do some of the details that are on stock panels, the little indentation/grooves that are there.
Right now I have no buzzer. However I also don't have a dome light with the ds door open. From what I can tell it is from the buzzer being unplugged. The seat belt light circuit is still operational.
I already pulled the trigger on OME springs. I'm trying to decide if I should just install them as is and see how they look or to just pull a leaf from the start.
Your panels look great. I have some trashed full door panels to use as templates. Did you glue? I'm looking into how to do some of the details that are on stock panels, the little indentation/grooves that are there.
joeynational
Member
if they are cheap enough i'd go for it
89FourRunner
New member
The medium duty are the most popular, someone (several builds most likely) definitely has a stock front with medium OME leafs in the rear. Try to find some pictures.
Thank you very much. I've tried, but it seems most people do everything at once.
I'm going to order one of these. They are door check pillar brackets for a Jeep Cherokee.
I think if I drill out some holes in the a-pillar for spot welds I may be able to use this to fix it up.
89FourRunner
New member
You didnt look too hard hahahaha.
Here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/class...-have-old-man-emu-first-gen-31x10-5-pics.html
There is a pick from airdreams with the ome mediums with no front lift, and then the omes with frint bjs. Seems the springs give 4 to 5" of lift, which is a lot of lift.
Here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/class...-have-old-man-emu-first-gen-31x10-5-pics.html
There is a pick from airdreams with the ome mediums with no front lift, and then the omes with frint bjs. Seems the springs give 4 to 5" of lift, which is a lot of lift.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
PM SENT. It could just be as simple as the door switch not working or not wired properly. Seeing that some work was done around that area (door check), maybe that part got messed up.
Can't wait to see how the OME's work for you. How high is your front-end right now? I'm not sure if my torsion bars had been cranked by previous owner, but with my 12-inch spring Zuk mod, i think my rear-end could still look good with a little more lift, meaning it's ready for the OME when I decide to spend the money.
I just used the 3M spray-on adhesive, similar to the topliner I think. Lined the panel with 1/8-inch ensolite, wrapped that with the vinyl, and taped & stapled the edges of the vinyl on the back side.
DOH!
Thank You! I have the measurements from other threads and that picture really helped. I guess one last thing is to lift the rear of my truck to simulate those measurements. My gut tells me I'm going to just pull a leaf.
I went by the PnP yesterday and the tan head rests where all go. The dash vents were in really poor shape. Cracked and broken is a better description.
I'll keep an eye out. I'm trying to find a oil pressure sender boot. I forgot to research which years/models use the same oil pressure sender so it was a bit of wild goose chase. Plus it was hot, hot, hot. I'll check out the other PnP sometime next week. It has a red interior 88 or 89 4runner that still had the head rests the last I checked.
Thank you very much. I've tried, but it seems most people do everything at once.
I'm going to order one of these. They are door check pillar brackets for a Jeep Cherokee.
I think if I drill out some holes in the a-pillar for spot welds I may be able to use this to fix it up.
I don't think this will work. The door check bracket is not only spot welded to the a-pillar sheet metal, but there appears to be some sort of sub-structure back there too.
Thanks Rad! In a perfect world the only buzzer I would hear are if the headlights are left on. I may not even want that when I think about it.
I'm hoping to carve out some time to do this soon. It seems whenever I have time, it starts to rain. The thread 894Runner showed me helped a lot. The thread he pointed out about using the FSM to check your suspension helped even more. My front is within 1/2" of stock (too high) taking into account my 29" tires, but I didn't preform the measurements with 29 psi tires. My rear is sagging. My gut tells me that I'll only have a moderate rake with the OME medium duty springs if I take out the leaf ARB told me too. I'm trying to get in touch with a friend with a lathe to engineer a better solution to the spring clip that can hit the gas tank. If I can't connect I'll weld a capture nut to the inside as well as thread the hole then cut the bolt tip flush.
Good tips on the door panel. Incorporate sound deadening material as a part of it.!
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joeynational
Member
No worries dude, i appreciate you taking the time to look. If you also need anything let me know. There is a guy close to my work that parts out Toyota trucks and 4runners. I've got several things from them before. Here is there link
Toyota pick up and 4 runner parts 1979-2001
I found another one on yotatech. Stock IFS and the OME medium in the back with the overload leaf removed.
arlindsay1992's 1987 4Runner Build Up Thread - Page 6 - YotaTech Forums
I'm thinking removing a leaf will do just about right. Sadly, I can't synch up my free time with the rain to install them. I have a new Sankei oil pressure sender to install and can't find the 15 minutes I need to do that. :lol:
I'm not bitter, we need the rain.
joeynational
Member
send that rain to PHX...one thing i miss the most of Tucson is the monsoon!
89FourRunner
New member
Ohhhhh that's Alex's truck! Yeah he has a pretty cool youtube site with how tos and repairs on his 4runner. I forgot he pulled the front ball joint spacers due to constant lower ball joint failures.
Those are good pics.
I know the truck is gutted but that is crazy high compared to the rear IMO. Also, now you know that you should get a 4 degree shim plate for the rear axle to fix a drive line vibration. (He posted that in his build when he installed the OME medium duty springs).
Those are good pics.
I know the truck is gutted but that is crazy high compared to the rear IMO. Also, now you know that you should get a 4 degree shim plate for the rear axle to fix a drive line vibration. (He posted that in his build when he installed the OME medium duty springs).
Yeah, that's him. I have followed his build thread for awhile and I didn't realize he was the same guy from the Alex Man videos. I just put that together a couple of days ago. I'm pretty dense sometimes.
I will go back, but I thought he didn't have the vibration after the lift and only got it after installing the budbuilt skid in addition to the lift. Either way the pinion needs to be measured. I have never messed with a leaf sprung truck before. It was so much easier picking out springs for the Land Cruiser. So far the only thing I prefer is that it is much easier to deal with pinion angle changes.
A quick question, I know that the U-bolts should be considered a "single use" item, but can I reuse new ones to insert a shim if needed? The ARB ones are expensive. If I were to do it again I think I'd look for another source.
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Don't forget we are 5-10* cooler also. :whoo:
I always forget how nice things are up in Phoenix. Much of Tucson looks like a worn down neglected factory town at times. It is slowly getting better, but Phoenix actually looks like the citizens give a hoot.
Well, the rain caused me to get some work-work done. Now the sun is shining and I'll at least test out the new oil pressure sender.
Boooo, the OEM sender from LCE didn't fix the oil gauge problem.
1. It is a Senkei. The parts catalog lists it and a Yakazi. I can't imagine it makes a difference.
2. I need to test the Senkei sender.
3. I've used two different instrument clusters. The oil pressure gauge in both ohm out good according the the FSM. Instrument cluster wiring checked out ok according to the EWD.
4. I checked for continuity in the wiring from the sender to the gauge. It failed. I think it should have continuity according to the EWD. The mosquitos drove me inside, but I was able to check the short pigtail at the sender and that portion is fine.
If the wiring should have continuity, this is the problem and easily testable.
1. It is a Senkei. The parts catalog lists it and a Yakazi. I can't imagine it makes a difference.
2. I need to test the Senkei sender.
3. I've used two different instrument clusters. The oil pressure gauge in both ohm out good according the the FSM. Instrument cluster wiring checked out ok according to the EWD.
4. I checked for continuity in the wiring from the sender to the gauge. It failed. I think it should have continuity according to the EWD. The mosquitos drove me inside, but I was able to check the short pigtail at the sender and that portion is fine.
If the wiring should have continuity, this is the problem and easily testable.
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