GeoRoss' 1986 4Runner

The Land Cruiser is down with a pesky misfire. The family has a planned snow vacation next week. The 4Runner has street tires. The PO included a set of 15" American Racing Wheels when I bought it. They aren't my first choice, but then again they are what I have. I found a set if inexpensive Goodyear Wranglers. They should do much better especially with all that 80's mojo.
 

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Well, I can't believe I didn't put this together. I had a transmission whine while decelerating in 3 and 4th for some time. I assumed it was a bad input bearing and have half heartedly been looking for a replacement W56B. Today I just realized that the noise appeared some time after I put the OME springs in. I bet my pinion angle is off. As I understand it, the pinion should be horizontal. Is that correct? I sure hope this is it as shims are a lot easier to put in (and cheaper) than a new transmission.

Well, time for an update. I needed the 4Runner for a highway trip. I greased the heck out of the u-joints. I could have sworn I did this when I put the new springs on the rear, but clearly I had not. The vast majority of the deaccelleration noise is gone. When I get a chance I'll measure the angles and go from there. I'm still contemplating removing a leaf.
 
Well, time for an update. I needed the 4Runner for a highway trip. I greased the heck out of the u-joints. I could have sworn I did this when I put the new springs on the rear, but clearly I had not. The vast majority of the deaccelleration noise is gone. When I get a chance I'll measure the angles and go from there. I'm still contemplating removing a leaf.

Hoping the truck works well for you, especially that transmission. So far, I've been happy with mine. Shifts smoother now than the day I picked it up in Dallas. But ... where the heck did my 6th gear go?!!! :)
 
Well, I've run the medium duty OME rear springs for almost a year. I've carried weight, articulated the suspension, etc. They really haven't relaxed much so I'm going to pull a leaf. I thought about doing this when I did the initial install.

My question is, will I end up destroying the center pin when I do this? I seem to recall it is riveted in. I just want to have some replacements on hand when I do this if needed.
 
I took my still uninstalled new OME's apart to put the anti-friction shims in and was able to re-use the center bolt without trouble.
 
I took my still uninstalled new OME's apart to put the anti-friction shims in and was able to re-use the center bolt without trouble.

Thanks! I was pretty sure I would be removing a leaf when I installed them, but wanted to see if they would settle down to something I could live with.
 
Thanks! I was pretty sure I would be removing a leaf when I installed them, but wanted to see if they would settle down to something I could live with.
I ordered w/o the short leaf and they're not yet installed because I fear that their ride height may be taller than I want to go with this truck. Wish that I could buy a set of NEW OEM rears for it. That might be all that I need.
 
I ordered w/o the short leaf and they're not yet installed because I fear that their ride height may be taller than I want to go with this truck. Wish that I could buy a set of NEW OEM rears for it. That might be all that I need.

I agree completely. I would have gone that route if it were possibility. OME was the only cost effective way I could find. What has moved this to the front burner is I really need new shocks and would like to get the springs settled first.
 
Auto and Truck Springs, in PA, sells oem rear springs. i bought a pair in Nov 2013 for $301.82 delivered. part # 90-119.
 
90-119 Specifications

SRI Number:90-119
OEM Number:48210-35490
Width:2-3/8 Inches
Length (A): 20-1/2 Inches
Length (B):27 Inches
Arc (C):6-11/16 Inches
Number of Leaves:3/1/Pad
Pack Thickness (D):1-7/16 Inches
Front Bushing:Included
Rear Bushing:Not Included
Location:Rear
 
Auto and Truck Springs, in PA, sells oem rear springs. i bought a pair in Nov 2013 for $301.82 delivered. part # 90-119.

90-119 Specifications

SRI Number:90-119
OEM Number:48210-35490
Width:2-3/8 Inches
Length (A): 20-1/2 Inches
Length (B):27 Inches
Arc (C):6-11/16 Inches
Number of Leaves:3/1/Pad
Pack Thickness (D):1-7/16 Inches
Front Bushing:Included
Rear Bushing:Not Included
Location:Rear


Thanks! I recall coming across those springs when searching. I remember not being able to find any positive reviews on them from people who used them. Maybe I didn't search well enough. Those springs and shipping to me was $100 more than the OME springs. Since I didn't see any reviews on them, I went with the devil I know that I knew I could make work.
 
eh. i don't love them. they've worked ok, though. i probably should have gone with a slightly more arched rear spring, to get better "action". if i ever replace them, i'll try something else.

wally
 
Well, this is a tiny update. Last winter before a road trip I greased the driveline and chassis. I went to do the IFS and found it didn't have zircs, but plugs. I could easily get to the top, but the bottom was more tricky. Being in a hurry I skipped it.

I finally got around to replacing the plugs with zirc fittings as I was changing the wheels/tires. Here is were it gets funny, I spent an hour trying to thread a zirc into the lower arm. I finally realized if I just turned the wheel it would be easy. :doh:

I did find that the lower arm was pretty hard to squeeze a little grease in. The rubber felt pretty empty so I'm guessing clogged with dried grease. I'm also pretty sure I'll need to do some front end work soon if the swaybar bushings are any indication.
 
One step forward, one step back. It is 112° today so the AC as been on high a lot. I've always had a terrible rattle when doing that. Today I found it, the defroster vents rattle. Some green felt and all is good.

While dropping the kids off it hit a bump, heard a thump and then a shatter. In the rear view mirror I saw stars sprinkling on the road. The PS mirror fell out of the housing. These are electric mirrors off a 1989 I found at a junkyard. I love these style of mirrors and I'm not hopeful I'll be able to find someone to cut a replacement mirror. Time for some eBay I guess.
 
I removed the lower/smallest overload spring. It didn't do much on the height, but it took most of the harshness out of the ride.
 
Well the 4Runner is still just dandy. I found out what my off-throttle transmission whine was. I replaced the shifter bushing (from Marlin) and no more deceleration noise.

I've had a little bit of intermittent high idle. I tracked that down to a sticky dashpot. I'll keep lubing it until it completely stops. It is mostly gone.

I did develop a hard cold start only when temps are below 60˚F. I do need to track that down, but I guess I have until late October to fix that. I think it is either fuel pressure or my ICV. I don't have a start-up high idle, but that predates the cold-start problem. Seat-of-the-pants HP feel makes me think it is better if I leave the key in the ON position for 30 seconds or so before starting. It runs fine now and I'll sort that out later.

It does need body work and paint. My original plan was to do the exterior and then the interior from a logistics point of view. Sadly, my slush fund/mad money for fun stuff keeps getting depleted by the real world, new roof, new HVAC, and a few other things. Plus, I've been thinking that this might be something I want to tackle myself. I'm somewhat handy, what the hell.

Sooooo, to keep some semblance of forward progress I moved to the interior. My 4Runner is a DLX model with the 3/4 door cards. They are in good shape, but the asshat PO put some sort of weird outdoor carpet additions that were tek screwed on. Plus the DS door is a replacement from a full door card SR5 that had a speaker cut out. Door cards on eBay are made of gold and bitcoin so I decided to make my own.

They turned out well I think. They are not perfect, but not bad for a first go.

Details for how I did it can be found here
 

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