Getting more current from your stock alternator at idle

rigtec

New member
Hi A team,

Just the other day, one of our community members had a question and it was an EXCELLENT ONE! He was trying to determine if one of his new accessories was defective or if his new 4Runner was having trouble supplying enough voltage/amperage to feed it properly. Well, as far as I know the jury is still out on that conclusion. But my position is that sometimes the problem isn't that our 130A Denso (small case) hairpin alternator isn't capable of supplying enough current to your accessories. Sometimes the trouble exists because our alternators are not able to supply enough current... 'at curbside idle!

"Well rigtec, what are we supposed to do... go out and spend $800 bucks and buy a Huge output alternator like you did; money don't grow on trees you know..." lol! No, not at all tech-team! What you can do about not having enough current to run certain accessories when idling is simply change the alternator's idle speed by manipulating the Crankshaft to alternator pulley ratio. Here's how that works: Your 5'th gen 4Runner employs a 6 inch crankshaft pulley (w/6 or 7 grooves) which turns everything from your water pump to your power steering pump...etc! Now your alt pulley IIRC is about three inches +/- .5 inches.

That gives a 2 to 1 alt ratio e.g., so if your engine/crankshaft turns at say: 800 RPM, then your alternator pulley is turning at 1600 RPM; which gives a 2 to 1 ratio. But that can be changed within a nominally margined upgrade. If you install a 2 inch +/- alt pulley and the crank spins at 800 RPM then the alt pulley will turn at 2400 RPM at idle; which yields a 3 to 1 spin ratio. It's not a matter of needing more alternator output; 130A may be plenty for your basic needs. It's just a matter of when you need to use it, which in this case, you need to be there while at idle, like for sitting still with the engine running and watching the tv or trying to chill a six-pack!

The only caution I guess would be a marginal amount of extra wear and tear when revving the engine at high rpms, like when doing 65-70 mph, the rpm may be up to 4,000 rpm; which means the alt will turn at 12,000 rpm, so the bearings and brushes life span will suffer, but like they say: "There's no free lunch"! Here are a few articles that I pulled from my library for your reference; they're very good reading info; especially in the bathroom!:







Here's another article to hold on to just FYI!










Listen folks, I realize that I put a lot of information here, but I tend to post threads here that no one else has posted about with any intensive, peripheral, theoretical detail and my threads address issues that are highly relevant to your subjects of concern on these forums! I never intended for you to read all of this stuff at one time (lol), just print the ones you are interested in and put them aside for another time. I say it's relevant because this is a truck modification advisory forum and does involve about 55-60% of electrical T/S that we provide here, so I just want you to be somewhat informed about the mods that you're interested in 'BEFORE' your desperate cry for help, hahaha!

Oh... Here's a documented video of an alternator that's dishing out 75% of it's full load capacity; it really doesn't matter how many amperes that it's capable of, but it's pulley size/ratio is determining it's curbside idle percentage output... your's will do the same thing (just not the same amount of current) wrt it's ratio! Hope you enjoy the read An alternator putting out 75% of it's full load at idle

rig
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Good info thank you for sharing. Does anyone know what minimum rpm is required for a 4R stock alternator to achieve max output?

When using my winch on my Jeep I have the ability to temporarily increase the minimum engine idle speed to a defined rpm and achieve that alternator max output.
 
so basically what you're telling me, is that i need to buy an aftermarket hairpin XP wound 220AMP alternator
 
I'll have to double check, but most of the new Toyota alternators are computer controlled, so you may find that the computer will reduce current anyways when it feels it doesn't need it. So this may not work as well as the attachments show.
 
I'll have to double check, but most of the new Toyota alternators are computer controlled, so you may find that the computer will reduce current anyways when it feels it doesn't need it. So this may not work as well as the attachments show.

Hi BWI,

Yeah I just finished reading the software and electronics reports on the newer Brushless Denso alternators. I'm not too sure if there're ecu controlled/managed or only monitored, but the report did mention computer management throttling down when excessive current/voltage is prevalent! The older ones (like my '12) only monitor voltage; I imagine for the sake of the history-onics and data logs.

Cheers
 
Good info thank you for sharing. Does anyone know what minimum rpm is required for a 4R stock alternator to achieve max output?"

Hi interski,

That part of Denso's performance data wasn't completely clear, but I read somewhere an article back in Sept or Oct 15 that seemed to indicate that the full field denso output was measured at 2200 (engine) rpm; which puts the alternator at 4400 rpm, having a 2 to 1 spin ratio! Best!
 
Hey folks,

I just got off the phone with nice a gentleman at Nations Starter and Alternator moments ago and informed him that their Toyota/Lexus catalog fitment guide is still out of date; it only goes up to the 2009 4Runner, but that's deceiving when they make them for all of our trucks up to 2016, so hopefully they'll do some updating on their cat! Also I asked if someone wanted to purchase an 270-XP high output unit, could they get it with an external voltage regulator, and they said sure you can!

BUT... you either have to send it to them so they can install it for you, or you can order it that way (about $150 extra). I asked them what was the model number of that external v-reg for the 270-xp and he advised to ask for the one that goes to the Mustang Cobra... the technical adviser is out on vacation, so that's how they'll know which one that you're after! I also got an older SPX high-output alternator performance video to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMWlM2NxygU

"enjoy the show" :pop2: Best to you!
 
Last edited:
Hi again guys/gals,

This procedure 'IS NOT' to increase the output of your stock Denso alternator. It will, however increase the efficiency of your truck's use of the electrical system in that you won't have to escalate the engine's RPM just to utilize a few extra accessories when your parked. Now the other side of this hidden benefit, the engine will work a little harder when driving the loaded generator at curbside idle, but no more than it does when running the temperature control system when parked; the A/C compressor does run, even when your using the heat (a system that's referred to in the commercial hvac industry as a "HOT DECK-COLD DECK" system!

#1 it always has a hot deck full of hot air at your disposal. Same with the cold deck... the cold air is always available for spontaneous use; much like your water heater stores hot water so it's always ready to provide hot water in an instant! Could you imaging if you had to wait for about 30 minutes for the water to heat up, just so you can take a shower... This system also Blends the air coming form the two supply decks to provide the perfect discharge air temperature. So loading the alternator a little sooner (while parked) provides a little bit better convenience for the operator because the generator is already spinning fast enough to provide the current on demand!

Hope this will help you make good decisions when assessing the best way to manage your aftermarket amenities!

Best
 
Last edited:
...FYI

All of the 5'th GEN 4Runners from 2010 to 2016 have an electrical ECU monitoring system that records electrical statistics for the diagnostic banks and technical analysis for the benefit of trouble-shooting, but hasn't the capacity to change or modify the alternator output; this however, has all changed with the advent of the Single pin (LIN) harness connector; which can modify/control generator output voltage/amperages for the sake of energy conservation!

Cheers
 
"Good info thank you for sharing. Does anyone know what minimum rpm is required for a 4R stock alternator to achieve max output?.."

Hi internski,

I apologize you the delayed reply; I just saw your question moments ago! Our engines idle on average about 800 to 900 RPM so a 2 to 1 alternator ratio means that the alternator will spin at 1600 to 1800 RPM; possibly a 80A output. But...

if you were swap the alternator's pulley to a 3 to 1 ratio (2700 to 3000 RPM), it will generate about 115 to 120A at curbside idle! This essentially it's full output and there's no downside to this; no excessive heat, no additional wear and tear on the mechanical parts...etc! Again, sorry for my negligence to reply, 'Best to you'!

rig
 
Last edited:
Hi internski,

I apologize you the delayed reply; I just saw your question moments ago! Our engines idle on average about 800 to 900 RPM so a 2 to 1 alternator ratio means that the alternator will spin at 1600 to 1800 RPM; possibly a 80A output. But...

if you were swap the alternator's pulley to a 3 to 1 ratio (2700 to 3000 RPM), it will generate about 115 to 120A at curbside idle! This essentially it's full output and there's no downside to this; no excessive heat, no additional wear and tear on the mechanical parts...etc! Again, sorry for my negligence to reply, 'Best to you'!

rig

Great posts! Not only this one, but all over these forums! I'm debating between trying some of these mods vs upgrading to a 270 or 340 HO alternator, and want to bounce some questions off of you:

What's the best place to buy a 3:1 pulleys for a 5th gen (2016)? Nothing was obvious when doing a Google search.

How would updating the pulley be affected if I install a voltage booster?

Skip the pulley update and just do the 240A or 320A alternator upgrade with the Big 3 (or 4) wires. (Preference on a 240 vs 320?
Toyota 4Runner High Output Alternators
11517-270XP High Output Alternator for Toyota 4Runner, Tundra, FJ Cruiser with a 4.0L Engine
Toyota 4.0L V6 1GR-FE 270A Alternator Tacoma,4Runner,FJ Cruiser DC Power Alternator
8165-270XP 270 Amp High Output Alternator

I have a 31M AGM Northstar battery, 3 amps (1800W total) for aftermarket stereo system, ARB twin compressor, LED and HID headlights, Baja Squadron Pro foglights, ARB Elements fridge.

Planning on adding a few more goodies later on too.
 
Energy Conservation on the 4Runner Electrical Circuit

...FYI

All of the 5'th GEN 4Runners from 2010 to 2016 have an electrical ECU monitoring system that records electrical statistics for the diagnostic banks and technical analysis for the benefit of trouble-shooting, but hasn't the capacity to change or modify the alternator output; this however, has all changed with the advent of the Single pin (LIN) harness connector; which can modify/control generator output voltage/amperages for the sake of energy conservation!

Cheers

In the interest of NOT creating a new thread and having used the search function... ;)

Energy Conservation on the 4Runner Electrical Circuit


Maybe [MENTION=144561]DCPower_Anthony[/MENTION] or [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] can answer these questions:
  1. How does the 270Amp Alternator affect the overall efficiency of the vehicle (am I losing 1MPG or 4MPG)?
  2. What is the IP (Ingress Protection) rating on these? (I hate mud and it hates me back)

I noticed that a number of people in this thread were stating they had less than optimal voltage output. I'm not sure if any of them determined the cause, but the larger casing and cooling is probably the number 1 reason I am looking at the DC Power Alternators.


Background - I have a 2015 4Runner (Trail Premium) with 170,000 miles and:
  • A full-time "dash cam" system that has a relatively low draw on the battery
  • Off Road Lights that are rarely used (daily driver)
  • Viair 300P Hardwired with disconnect (normally disconnected)
  • Engo Winch Hardwired with disconnect (normally disconnected)
  • A SnoMaster LP66D Fridge that is removed when we are not camping.
  • An off road trailer with brakes and battery system of its own. (obviously only when camping)
  • REDARC Tow Pro Elite Brake Controller
  • Yaesu FTM-100DR VHF/UHF Radio (rarely used) - W4RNN
  • Pioneer DMH-2660NEX Head Unit (stereo)
  • Maestro RR2 Vehicle Interface from iDatalink
  • ARCLights LED Voltage Booster for the past 55,000 miles (set on OverBoost currently - probably causing excessive heat on stock the alternator - video below)
  • A brand new 31M AGM X2 Power Battery

...and that's before I add anything else. Needless to say, with 3 occupants and their mobile devices, we are hard on the electrical system. This morning on my drive into work I noticed a slight (like barely perceivable flicker in the lights). It was dark and raining and humid. So, the windshield wipers, headlights, fog lights, defrost, and air condition were all on. Of course the radio was turned up too (coffee hadn't kicked in yet). My fear of a dying alternator was made worse when a deer jumped out in front of me and everything shut off and came back on when I slammed the brakes. My hope is that its just a loose ground wire, but the flickering lights and years of experience tell me its probably an alternator issue. If it is the alternator, I'm most likely going to shell out for the 270 - buy once = cry once.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PwZptfaqCdQ" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Last edited:
Hi 007Tacoma...!

I loved your video Mark; you're a PRO at that! Now, The Stock Small end-frame DENSO (Hair-pin) Alternator, tho it says 130A, is really pushing it as far as "Real World Output!" When it's cold... maybe! But once it warms up, will struggle to maintain 13.4; especially in the summer months!

After replacing the "130A" factory Alternator with the 270-XP, I had NO MORE TROUBLE with strobing head-lights, variable blower mtr speed...etc! I was holding steady at 14.01 (100'ths); which is still 14V! Then I read what you read about NOT being able to fully charge an "AGM" battery!

So I spent $8 bucks and bought this booster:

New Genuine GM Multipurpose Inline Diode OE 12135037 | eBay

Also, here's my 270-XP High output post; it's still a bunch of relevant info in there:

4Runner alternator upgrade (gen 5)

Now I'm at 14.64V at all times; ...even when hot! You can do that, but if the alternator doesn't have the capacity to generate the Amps, the apparent voltage means nothing; not enough behind it to do the work assigned to it! My point... Go with the 270-XP for starters, then add your booster and 'problem solved'!

Also, regarding what-cha said about the ecu can-BUS voltage monitor... I found out the hard way that when my when my Main body ECU-Compu Net failed, due to a mal-adjusted Yaw-rate acceleration calibration & Center point steering calibration, my 270-XP stopped working all together!

So I called "Toyota-Care" using that stupid button up near the sun-roof controls! They would only tow me to a Toyota dealership; I had the kids with me (2 Nieces) and we were on our way to a nice restaurant for dinner!

So I ended-up spending $85 bucks to have the tow-truck take us to my house, after the driver was nice enough to stop in front of the pizza shop for a lg pie! Lol! The next day the Alt started charging as soon as I got a jump, so I knew that the can-BUS/ECU presides over the M terminal on the alternator's control plug!

Please rmbr to hit me back after you decide which way to go with this issue; I'd be curious to know how ya made out!

~rig~
 
Last edited:
130amp factory alternator are usually cold rated. Meaning when the vehicle reaches operating temperature the alternator is no longer capable of producing 130amps. Expect a 15 - 20% drop in output when hot.

Second battery system might help for high demands. Cost would be near an upgraded alternator.
 
Hi 007Tacoma...!

I loved your video Mark; you're a PRO at that! Now, The Stock Small end-frame DENSO (Hair-pin) Alternator, tho it says 130A, is really pushing it as far as "Real World Output!" When it's cold... maybe! But once it warms up, will struggle to maintain 13.4; especially in the summer months!

Thanks! and thanks for the information too.

Do you know if the 270XP had any effect at all on your fuel economy?
 
Thanks! and thanks for the information too.

Do you know if the 270XP had any effect at all on your fuel economy?

I bought one of the 270XP in the first group buy...way back almost 5 years ago.

Here's my install notes/post

It has had zero effect on my gas mileage as far as I can tell. Even with running a dual battery system.

I track it via an app at every fill up since the first tank, difference is negligible enough I can't even tell.
 
Last edited:
I bought one of the 270XP in the first group buy...way back almost 5 years ago.

Here's my install notes/post

It has had zero effect on my gas mileage as far as I can tell. Even with running a dual battery system.

I track it via an app at every fill up since the first tank, difference is negligible enough I can't even tell.

Thanks!

Yeah we use "Road Trip" by Darren Stone on iOS to track our Fuel Economy. I'm definitely going to be upgrading my alternator soon. the current one is on the way out. :(
 
I dove in the deep end...

Thanks, [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] and [MENTION=67802]nglayton[/MENTION]... I picked up some 2AWG, some lugs, high-temp solder, and...

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OTDU_ekK8H0" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Unboxing - DC Power 270XP High Output Alternator for the 2015 Toyota 4Runner - YouTube


My son and I are going to be installing it all today.
:lookout:
 
Last edited:
Thanks! and thanks for the information too.

Do you know if the 270XP had any effect at all on your fuel economy?

Hi 007Tacoma!

I'm glad you were able to order the 270-XP; you'll NEVER be sorry you did! As far as the fuel economy factor... I've never heard that mentioned in any Technical Reports wrt the 270-XP... the only obvious difference (to me), would be: "The factory 130A Denso" alternator generates a tremendous amount of HEAT... which equals wasted energy because it's so easily overloaded! It's like running a toaster under the hood, but NOT receiving any of the benefits of the final product, "NO TOAST!"

On the other hand: "The 270-XP runs a lot Cooler as it can generate 200A at curb-side idle, and never blinks when ya turn on the Blower, the heater, or even the Winch, which is seldom I'd imagine! I truly believe that the 270's affect upon fuel economy is negligible at worst, or it would have come up in their competitor's (e.g. "Mech-Man") Electrical "A-B" test comparison reports! And even though I don't watch my fuel eco; (I drive a company service Vehicle for work: Comm'l HVAC Service/Repair), my 2012 LE still has 25,350 Miles on the clock to this day!

So I'd say, the benefits of having the 270-XP, far out weigh any cost of operations therein! 'Best to you and yours 007Tacoma

rig, Cheers!
 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,105
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top