Getting sub and Amp hooked up

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FoozGrind

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I have a 2008 4runner non jbl system. I am getting an AMP and a subwoofer installed tommorow. Anything i should be considered about after they disconnect my battery? Example.. will i have any dash lights coming on for the airbags or anything?

Thanks
 
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You will probably have to reset the clcoks and reprogram your HU, but that should be it.

Which amp and subs are you getting installed?
 
Rockford 200.1 i think it is. It is 250 watts bridge at 4ohms. And i got A rockford single 10inch that came enclosed from them. It is a punch 2 speaker it has dual 2 ohm voice coils wired for 4ohms at the connection for the amp. Hope it sounds good.
 
FoozGrind said:
Rockford 200.1 i think it is. It is 250 watts bridge at 4ohms. And i got A rockford single 10inch that came enclosed from them. It is a punch 2 speaker it has dual 2 ohm voice coils wired for 4ohms at the connection for the amp. Hope it sounds good.
Click to expand...

Cool. Your just going for a little bump in the trunk that will still allow you to keep some cargo space?

Post some pictures tomorrow.
 
Exactly. I dont want to pound my ears nor anyone else but i want to hear something. Make it this way... I had a 2002 accord 2 door that i traded in for this 08 4runner and i had two rockford 12's which was to loud so i went with 2 10's and still to loud so i ended up with a 30watt self powered bazoka bass tube which sounded perfect so i think this will be just good enough. I will diff post pictures. I am a little upset that the remote control for the bass (comes with the amp) does not fit into any precuts for accessories for my truck so i saw pics on the forum where they placed it inside the center armrest. I think i will do that as well.
 
FoozGrind said:
Exactly. I dont want to pound my ears nor anyone else but i want to hear something. Make it this way... I had a 2002 accord 2 door that i traded in for this 08 4runner and i had two rockford 12's which was to loud so i went with 2 10's and still to loud so i ended up with a 30watt self powered bazoka bass tube which sounded perfect so i think this will be just good enough. I will diff post pictures. I am a little upset that the remote control for the bass (comes with the amp) does not fit into any precuts for accessories for my truck so i saw pics on the forum where they placed it inside the center armrest. I think i will do that as well.
Click to expand...

I understand.

I don't even use my remote bass control. It is not even installed. You don't really need it.
 
yea but screw it. It came with the amp and i gotta pay to have them run the wiring anyhow might as well get it hooked up. If i dont use it no biggy cause its out of sight.
 
If you use your tripometers, you will need to write that down.

The auto up/down for the driver's and rear window will need to be normalized again. Same goes for the moonroof if you have it. The directions are in the owner's manual.

I don't know the exact steps, but the following has worked for me. Hold the down/open position of the switch until the window is fully opened, continue holding it for another second or two. Fully close the window and continue to hold the switch in the up/close position for a second or two. Test the auto function for up/down for the windows, if they're not working repeat the steaps (or check the manual for the exact procedures). Repeat the same steps for the moonroof you have one.
 
Thanks, I only use the trip meters when traveling, but i will diff make sure i check the review window and moonroof. Ill post pics!
 
Ok i got pics of my system now. How do i get them in the post so u guys can see? I have a myspace page where i can upload the pics...
 
The easiest way is to upload them to Photobucket and then copy and past the IMG link and paste it in your post. Looking forward to seeing what you got.
 
Ok here are the pics. Hope this works.

<a href="http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/FoozGrind/?action=view&current=1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/FoozGrind/1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/FoozGrind/?action=view&current=2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/FoozGrind/2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/FoozGrind/?action=view&current=3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/FoozGrind/3.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/FoozGrind/?action=view&current=4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/FoozGrind/4.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

So my other question is. When i turn it up i did have any rattling i was expecting to here from the hatch expect the only rattling was coming from the Gas tank.... Any ideas on how to stop it? Only thing i can think of is inside the trunk on the left where the jack is its all open space i was thinking about shoving a towel or cloth in there.
 
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Looks good. As far as the rattle from gas tank- is it coming from inside the panel or is it just the door to your tank? I know the door to mine made a lot of noise and I had to put some rubber on the door latch to get rid of it. If it's coming from the panel a little sound deadener should take care of it. A little bit just to do that area should be fairly cheap.
I never understood why RF's remote bass control had to be so big. I like JLs nice and compact RBC. I have mine mounted in one of the blanks on the center console.
 
Its the door to the tank. I just thought since i can see the gas tank from inside the panel area i would try and stop it there. Could you post a pic of what kind of rubber you put there and where? I dont general like to stick any kind of sticky tape or anything to my car just incase i want to remove it, its always a mess.
 
Don't have a pic right now, and the wind and rain are crazy so I'm not gonna go out and take one right now. Sorry. I just took a strip of rubber with adhesive on the back and stuck it on the latch part of the door. Its such a small piece and it's hidden so it's not a big deal to have it on there. That took care of my problem. One of my friends used rubber cement on his.
 
I have some advesive rubber that i have left i used it on my front door frame. ITs red but if it is a small piece i gues you wont see it.
 
Yeah. I did have to bend the tab a little bit so the door was even with the body again, but it wasn't much. I probably could have gotten away with not doing it, but, as my wife would say- I'm kinda anal about stupid stuff.
 
ok wait now i am confused. I thought you just put some rubber near the latch not bend anything..... Could you explain it all again. Sorry but i want to make sure i get it right when i do it lol. (I ask to many questions)

Thanks
 
Not a problem. Ask away. I would do the same thing if someone told me to start bending stuff. Anyways, you know the tab on the back of the door that catches on the release latch? That is what I put the rubber piece on because that is what was making the noise when it rattled. After putting the rubber piece on it made the door move in the thickness of the rubber piece when closed, so I bent that tab back just a little bit so that the door didn't sind in that 1/16th of an inch. You may not feel the need to do it, but like I said I'm kind of anal about some things. It won't affect the operation or anything. You'll just have to see how it looks after you put the rubber on. Chances are that you won't notice a difference.
 
Looks nice and clean :bigok: I went to 1 10" after running 3 10"s and I like it. I can still have enough bass to give me a headache if I want. Most people don't realize how hard 10s can hit, especially when bridged
 
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