GOAT truck armor

Grug556 said:
Dust will get trapped under the covers and the magnets although will allow very minor movement which overtime will polish your paint till its opaque with scratches. I would not use.
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While we appreciate the logic (also considered this when testing), it's not the case. The magnets don't vibrate or shift enough to cause this unless you were to run them in the exact same position for a long long time without washing the truck. There is a Care document that specifically details that you do need to remove them and wash them regularly, so as with any product, if you follow the recommended usage, you'll be fine.

20k miles of testing and no clear coat damage. 2 miles down a thorny trail without them.... Massive clear coat damage. Your call. :hatsoff:
 
euser said:
That’s what I was thinking. If you didn’t wash your vehicle 30 seconds before applying these then you’re gonna screw up the paint pretty good. Especially if you have a darker vehicle. Any movement is just more scratching.
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We recommend 26.4 seconds after washing. It seems to work best.

Joking aside. Yes, you do need to wash it and then put them on a clean truck. Logic dictates, you don't want to put dirt between them and the truck. A little prep and some peace of mind.

Clean truck, apply armor, go off-roading, come home, cruise around with glorious coat of mud and dirt until you're over the novelty, clean truck and armor, admire still intact paint. Rinse and repeat.
 
It's a similar base product as commercial vehicle signs, but a much higher quality magnetic sheeting. Also, they do come with some cool patterns, and they are a printed vinyl magnet with a matte or gloss vinyl topcoat which further adds to the durability and protects the graphics very well. If you hit something hard enough to rip these, you just bought yourself actual body damage under them.
 
halflife78 said:
I am definitely interested in this. How is he adjusting the output for the badge variance in the rear near the back window? Your wife's trail badge is different than my Pro badge as an example.
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In short, those badges move all over the place from truck to truck; I learned this on the Tacomas. Clean and professional cutouts from the factory are impossible for this C-pillar badge, they'll never line up. But...I will offer a perfect template outline of each badge (pro, off-road, etc) so that making the cut for where your badge is on the C-pillar will be easier.
 
GOATtruckarmor said:
While we appreciate the logic (also considered this when testing), it's not the case. The magnets don't vibrate or shift enough to cause this unless you were to run them in the exact same position for a long long time without washing the truck. There is a Care document that specifically details that you do need to remove them and wash them regularly, so as with any product, if you follow the recommended usage, you'll be fine.

20k miles of testing and no clear coat damage. 2 miles down a thorny trail without them.... Massive clear coat damage. Your call. :hatsoff:
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I am not disputing how effective your gear is, it looks nice. I have used magnets over painted surfaces before and have seen first hand how over time they can damage clear coat due to minor side to side movement. Any particulate that gets trapped under there will act as a polishing compound.

I work in the coatings industry and formulate and manufacture coatings for the automotive industry and am quite familiar with various defects and mechanical damage to clear coats. Arguably the clear are worse now that many are more or less solvent free systems.

Not knocking your product, just making some comments. I would suggest that anybody using these pieces consider far more periodic cleaning under the magnetic pads to ensure clear coat longevity.

No need for Taber cycles here with a dusty matt:cheers:
 
GOATtruckarmor said:
It's a similar base product as commercial vehicle signs, but a much higher quality magnetic sheeting. Also, they do come with some cool patterns, and they are a printed vinyl magnet with a matte or gloss vinyl topcoat which further adds to the durability and protects the graphics very well. If you hit something hard enough to rip these, you just bought yourself actual body damage under them.
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Not denying the effectiveness of your product. My only criticism is that your website does nothing to inform me about your product other than letting me know what the pattern will be and how many pieces I get for my particular application. Very little of the stuff mentioned in your responses to this thread are in the product descriptions, FAQ or "about us." The website has a one page privacy policy full of information, but your product info is mostly absent. In depth product info with a crap-ton of detailed photos and videos inform the consumer. Informed consumers buy your products.

Not associated with the following manufacturers in any way, but I think Victory 4x4, RCI Off Road and Green Lane, etc. do pretty good jobs of informing the consumer online.
 
I am also interested in purchasing the product but am having a hard time trying to see how a particular pattern would look against the Magnetic Gray Metallic. Is there a better visual representation of the pattern and colors out there?


I'm interested in the black digital OG or the Swedish urban black small scale.
 
I like. I wouldn't leave the magnets on when commuting to work and not 4x4. Thus, you shouldn't have any clear coat damage. The cammo looks awesome.
 
I'm interested!! I have track decals magnetic numbers for HPDE and they haven't caused any clear coat damage. Put them on before going to the track and take them off once I'm home.
 
Interested as well, definitely will buy if group buy comes up

Has it been tested with Ceramic coated panels? does it still stick well?
 
Great response, thank you for that!

"Periodically" wasn't a well thought out term. 11pm after a 13 hour day and not using great verbiage. The armor is pretty common sense stuff. If you're out running trails hard for a weekend, come home, take it off clean, the truck, clean the armor. That's typically how I roll. I do frequent trips to the desert for multiple days and obviously run it the whole time. No issues, just clean it all up when you get home. If you just love the look and are cruising around the city, then you don't need to clean as often.
I created this not to make a quick buck, but to fill a need. I'm a good, conscientious person, and when I did the testing I would painstakingly check for any sort of paint damage. I don't want my product to do damage, I want it to protect from damage. Over time, as testing continued, I got more aggressive. Water crossings, heavy brush, absolutely raking large pine boughs down the side. I can take it off and the only reason you'd know it's a hardcore trail truck is the extensive abrasions on the B-pillar between the front and backseat windows, which isn't covered. That and the skids look like I moonlight as mine sweeper. :)
 
drew1266 said:
I am also interested in purchasing the product but am having a hard time trying to see how a particular pattern would look against the Magnetic Gray Metallic. Is there a better visual representation of the pattern and colors out there?


I'm interested in the black digital OG or the Swedish urban black small scale.
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My apologies for not having a more robust website. I do it myself, and I have much to learn. I'm working with my patterns designer on upgrading the website this summer to include the functionality of selecting the Make/Model, the OEM color, and then the armor overlay so you can better visualize what it would look like.

Each pattern and color scheme for that pattern were designed with particular OEM colors in mind. The Black OG, the Digi Black, and the Arachnid black all have tones that complement the magnetic gray.

The Colorado Gradient was designed specifically for the Quicksand. The Swedish Urban Gray looks awesome on the Cement and Silver.

The best way to follow and see some patterns on trucks is [MENTION=390059]GOATtruckarmor[/MENTION] on Instagram or Facebook.

Anyone is always free to email me directly at [email protected] - it's always me answering, and I enjoy talking to customers and non-customers alike. I've become friends with a lot of my customers and even as I grow, I hope that doesn't change too much.
 
[MENTION=390059]GOATtruckarmor[/MENTION] how do the magnetic panels work with fender flares and snorkels? are there outlines on the back side to cut along? or just cut it your self?

specifically for fender flares do you recommend sliding the panels under them?

and of course, when is the group buy:trophy:
 
CF_Machete said:
[MENTION=390059]GOATtruckarmor[/MENTION] how do the magnetic panels work with fender flares and snorkels? are there outlines on the back side to cut along? or just cut it your self?

specifically for fender flares do you recommend sliding the panels under them?

and of course, when is the group buy:trophy:
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Haha, I'm soooo uninformed in the art of a group buy. If anyone knows best-practice, by all means, PM me.

As for the snorkel, the first fitment I do. I hand cut to fit. After that, I'll make a 1:1 scale template that can be downloaded and printed at any fedex for a few dollars. You'd cut to the template shape and there you go.
Fenders....The easiest way to do the aftermarket fender flares is to loosen them up, slip the armor under them, hold them back in place and run a Sharpie down the flair edge. Remove the armor, cut, and repeat 3x more. I've done this and it's very easy.

Photo courtesy of @t4r_savage
 

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GOATtruckarmor said:
Haha, I'm soooo uninformed in the art of a group buy. If anyone knows best-practice, by all means, PM me.

As for the snorkel, the first fitment I do. I hand cut to fit. After that, I'll make a 1:1 scale template that can be downloaded and printed at any fedex for a few dollars. You'd cut to the template shape and there you go.
Fenders....The easiest way to do the aftermarket fender flares is to loosen them up, slip the armor under them, hold them back in place and run a Sharpie down the flair edge. Remove the armor, cut, and repeat 3x more. I've done this and it's very easy.

Photo courtesy of @t4r_savage
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Yeah, saw some runners on IG with the armor and they look sick! generally the vendor/ distributor sets a price reduction for a bulk buy with a defined time to order by.

Here on the org, the details are posted here https://www.toyota-4runner.org/group-buys/

one caveat is that you may need to be an official vendor.

One question in regards to the fender flares, is your branding high enough to clear psi/ bushwacker flares? while i tend to not want branding on my truck, your business comes across as not wanting to make a killing and wanting to just make a quality product... and the graphic is kick ass so I'd gladly support it.
 
GOATtruckarmor said:
Haha, I'm soooo uninformed in the art of a group buy. If anyone knows best-practice, by all means, PM me.

As for the snorkel, the first fitment I do. I hand cut to fit. After that, I'll make a 1:1 scale template that can be downloaded and printed at any fedex for a few dollars. You'd cut to the template shape and there you go.
Fenders....The easiest way to do the aftermarket fender flares is to loosen them up, slip the armor under them, hold them back in place and run a Sharpie down the flair edge. Remove the armor, cut, and repeat 3x more. I've done this and it's very easy.

Photo courtesy of @t4r_savage
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Wow that looks great! That is what I have on order for mine. Can’t wait.
 
Matching hood scoop panel would be cool for glare reduction. Heck I would buy that alone.

My wife’s JK has vinyl and it is starting to go, and it will not peal off. Not looking forward to how much that is going to cost me to replace and potential paint fade issues
 
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