Going Bigger - 5th Gen Tire Fitment Guide

I've decided to go with new wheels and tires with my 2012 Limited and have settled on 20" Black Rhino Imperials with Michelin LTX A/T 2s.

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America's Tire lists two options: 20 X9 6-139.70 12 BKMTXX and 20 X9 6-139.70 -12 BKMTXX. The only apparent difference is the offset (+12 vs. -12). Using the tools on this thread, I figured that the +12 would have 5.5" backspace, while the -12 would have 4.5" of backspace, which is what the stock 20x7 wheels have. I'm leaning towards going with the -12 since it will keep the wheel clear of the suspension, but I'm not sure whether that will prevent rubbing since the tires will stick about 1.5" vs. .6" with the +12 offset. Also, www.rimsntires.com recommends only the +12 offset and 5.5" backspace, adding to my confusion. Any help would be appreciated.


They may recommend +12 since that matches the stock wheel offset.
 
0 offset on a 9" wheel should be 4.5". The +12 offset is in mm and would be 7/16" - 1/2" (1" = 24.5mm). So +12 should only make it a 5" backspace. Since the largest backspace offered on the 4R is 4.875" (Trail Wheels), I wouldn't recommend more than that or you may end up with clearance problems on the suspension components instead of rubbing on the fenders. My recommendation would be the -12 offset and just do the little bit of trimming that MAY be needed. The -12 will also fill out your fenders better than the +12 would. Whether trimming is needed will also depend on what size AT2's you are mounting. You didn't specify that.


Thanks for the replies, I'd be going with the 275/55/20 for the tires. Wouldn't the -12 offset and 4.5" backspace put the wheel closer to the suspension and create clearance issues?
 
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Thanks for the replies, I'd be going with the 275/55/20 for the tires. Wouldn't the -12 offset and 4.5" backspace put the wheel closer to the suspension and create clearance issues?

No. The 5" from +12 backspacing would put the wheel and tire closer to the suspension, IE suck it in closer. Since Black Rhino doesn't list it you should be starting with 4.5" as the center of the wheel. +12 will give you 5" BS, -12 will give you 4".

Backspacing is measured from the hub (mounting surface) of the inside of the wheel to the back rim where the tire seats. Smaller numbers push the wheel out, larger numbers pull the wheel in. I never even used to mess with offset. I just wanted to know what the backspacing was. If you know the backspacing and the width of the wheel, you should then be able to figure the offset for yourself.

Go back to that rim calculator a couple pages back and set the ET on 0. Then try +12 and -12 and see where the center of the wheel moves to in the graphic.
 
Go back to that rim calculator a couple pages back and set the ET on 0. Then try +12 and -12 and see where the center of the wheel moves to in the graphic.

Unless I'm reading it wrong, the +12 offset/5.5" backspace basically "centers" the new wheel like the OEM, while the -12 offset/4.5" backspace pushes it out, away from the center of the truck.
 

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Unless I'm reading it wrong, the +12 offset/5.5" backspace basically "centers" the new wheel like the OEM, while the -12 offset/4.5" backspace pushes it out, away from the center of the truck.


Yes since the +12 offset is matched to stock, the center is the same. Also, since the wheel is wider, with the +12 offset more of it will fill in the wheel well since now the backspace is roughly 1" greater than stock.
 
Unless I'm reading it wrong, the +12 offset/5.5" backspace basically "centers" the new wheel like the OEM, while the -12 offset/4.5" backspace pushes it out, away from the center of the truck.

You're running a 7" rim on the left and a 9" rim on the right. It might become more clear if you use the same size wheel on both sides. My calculation still comes out with +12 = 5", -12 equals 4". Of course I am assuming a 4.5" starting center since Black Rhino doesn't state what that was. It might not hurt to contact Black Rhino directly to get that information.

Here is mine after mounting 8" wide 4.5" backspaced wheels in the top picture. The bottom picture is after adding 1.25" spacers, or specifically adding -1.25" of backspace to the wheels (total of 3.25" BS). And yes, even with 265/70's I had to do some trimming after.
 

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Will 285/70/17 be good to go on a method nv in 17x8.5 0 offset 4.75 backspacing on a trd pro if I lift the front end to level it out? Offroad, onroad etc. Tire will most likely be duratracs. Any spacers, trimming etc needed?
 
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Will 285/70/17 be good to go on a method nv in 17x8.5 0 offset 4.75 backspacing on a trd pro if I lift the front end to level it out? Offroad, onroad etc. Tire will most likely be duratracs. Any spacers, trimming etc needed?

I did the method racing standards which are identical to the nv's in terms of specs plus the 285/70/17 duratracs. I had an alignment done (light racing uca's) and the tires rubbed the front bumper so that needed to be trimmed. I had already pushed the inner liner forward in advance so I would imagine that will be needed as well. The body mount would have rubbed in an off road situation but was ok for normal everyday driving. Naturally, the front mudflaps will need to be removed as well.

The above info was with a daystar 2.5/1.5 lift. Gonna be switching it out very soon.
 
I did the method racing standards which are identical to the nv's in terms of specs plus the 285/70/17 duratracs. I had an alignment done (light racing uca's) and the tires rubbed the front bumper so that needed to be trimmed. I had already pushed the inner liner forward in advance so I would imagine that will be needed as well. The body mount would have rubbed in an off road situation but was ok for normal everyday driving. Naturally, the front mudflaps will need to be removed as well.

The above info was with a daystar 2.5/1.5 lift. Gonna be switching it out very soon.

Where did it rub on the bumper? All good in the rear? Perhaps I'm better off with a 275. As of now, I'm only looking to raise my front end enough to level the truck and leave the rear stock.
 
Where did it rub on the bumper? All good in the rear? Perhaps I'm better off with a 275. As of now, I'm only looking to raise my front end enough to level the truck and leave the rear stock.

I have no issues with rubbing in the rear but with the lift being "spacers" I can feel the coil binding and also the shock doesn't have enough travel. So, that is the main reason I am changing things out.

If you look in front of the wheel you will see where the colored section of the bumper curves down and sticks out a bit more. If you look at this piece it looks as though Toyota cut a notch out of the bumper on the far inside of the bumper. Right where they allowed it to bow back out and come back up is where the tires were rubbing.

I'm not near the 4runner or I would grab you a pic.
 
Tried searching this thread but didn't find any info. Has anyone tried the 285/65/17? Look to be only 0.1 shorter than stock 265/70/17 and you get a little added width. My wife will mainly be driving our 2015 Trail so only a slight lift and meatier tires will be added. Was wondering if anyone had some pics of them on. Discount Tire offers this size in the Yokohoma Geolander....
 
does anyone see any issues with running 285/70/17s on the stock TE rims with spacers? Budget doesnt cut UCAs, tires, AND rims. Need the UCAs but can I take the hit by running the stock rims for a while? Your input is much appreciated.

EDIT: This will be on a 3" icon lift btw with TC UCAs. thinking 2.75 in the front and 3" in the rear with overland rear springs.
 
I've decided to go with new wheels and tires with my 2012 Limited and have settled on 20" Black Rhino Imperials with Michelin LTX A/T 2s in 275/55/20.

America's Tire lists two options: 20 X9 6-139.70 12 BKMTXX and 20 X9 6-139.70 -12 BKMTXX. The only apparent difference is the offset (+12 vs. -12). Using the tools on this thread, I figured that the +12 would have 5.5" backspace, while the -12 would have 4.5" of backspace, which is what the stock 20x7 wheels have. I'm leaning towards going with the -12 since it will keep the wheel clear of the suspension, but I'm not sure whether that will prevent rubbing since the tires will stick about 1.5" vs. .6" with the +12 offset. Also, Custom rims, wheel tire packages for your ride - RIMSnTIRES.com recommends only the +12 offset and 5.5" backspace, adding to my confusion. Any help would be appreciated.

UPDATE: Both Black Rhino and America's Tire said go with the +12mm offset with stock suspension. I ended up going with 18x9s instead of 20x9s, with Michelin LTX A/T 2s in 275/65/20. No rubbing, just enough clearance on the front of the well at full lock.
 

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First off I would like to say thanks to [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] for the great writeup. But here lies my problem. I have a 2015 TE and want to go up a size on my tires. Im not doing a lift anytime soon, as it will make it too hard for my wife (5'2") to get the kid in the carseat.

So, I would like to get a beefier tire, without rubbing. On my 2013 Tacoma TRD-S/DCSB I was able to get 265/70/R17 on them with no issue, up from the 265/65/17 that they come with. I would like to stick with the same tire (I love the General Grabber AT2's), but they only come in 265/70/17 or 285/70/17 which I believe will not fit without some sort of modifications. Any insight to running a bigger tire on a STOCK truck otherwise. I do see that BFG makes the All Terrain T/A KO2 in 275/70/17 which may be a better idea...

Thanks everyone!!

-Z
 

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First off I would like to say thanks to [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] for the great writeup. But here lies my problem. I have a 2015 TE and want to go up a size on my tires. Im not doing a lift anytime soon, as it will make it too hard for my wife (5'2") to get the kid in the carseat.

So, I would like to get a beefier tire, without rubbing. On my 2013 Tacoma TRD-S/DCSB I was able to get 265/70/R17 on them with no issue, up from the 265/65/17 that they come with. I would like to stick with the same tire (I love the General Grabber AT2's), but they only come in 265/70/17 or 285/70/17 which I believe will not fit without some sort of modifications. Any insight to running a bigger tire on a STOCK truck otherwise. I do see that BFG makes the All Terrain T/A KO2 in 275/70/17 which may be a better idea...

Thanks everyone!!

-Z

Don't take this the wrong way but did you happen to look at the chart by chance?
 
Don't take this the wrong way but did you happen to look at the chart by chance?


Ha, not taken the wrong way at all. I did look at it, and then read a ton of the posts on this thread. The thing I noticed is that there are different results with different models of the truck, SR5 vs. Trail vs. TRDP. I figured I would just throw out there a specific question.
 
Ha, not taken the wrong way at all. I did look at it, and then read a ton of the posts on this thread. The thing I noticed is that there are different results with different models of the truck, SR5 vs. Trail vs. TRDP. I figured I would just throw out there a specific question.

There are no different results by model. In stock condition, every model has the same clearance. Here is what will influence tire fitment and cause your tires to potentially rub:

Adding wheel spacers
Adding a wheel with a high positive offset
Adding too large diameter tires

Here's the deal: Let's say you own a 4Runner SR5 and Bob down the street owns a 4Runner SR5 exactly like yours. No modifications to either. You both decide to upgrade to 275/70/17 (one size larger from the stock 265/70/17 size) with the same tires. You get it done at the same shop at the same time. Bob's tires fit with no rubbing but yours rub when you turn the wheel! How can this be?
In fact, 'ol Bob could run 285's on his stock vehicle and not rub (that's two sizes up) while you rub with one size up. What's happened is the vehicles left the factory fully in alignment spec but alignment has a RANGE for the caster setting. Bob's just happened to be at the far end of the caster setting and yours was at the other end of the range. Also remember there are tolerances during manufacturing that could your truck to be dimensionally different than Bob's 4Runner, not much but enough to cause it to rub. This is the part few people can get through their head and every vehicle is slightly different no matter what manufacturer, make or model. Nobody ever notices this until they try to stuff a tire under there that challenges the clearances.

How do you know up front? You don't. If you go this route then plan on getting an alignment done AFTER you have researched alignment specs and know what to ask for. Even then you might have to remove or trim mudflaps or move the inner fender liner. Sometimes if you want something you have to work for it.

Now you say you looked at the chart. You will see that stepping up one size to 275's is GREEN. Meaning that if you are running stock wheels (on any model of 4Runner) then you WILL NOT RUB. You might have to get an alignment though or even move the inner liner a bit.

I also think you need to go back and check your sizes you posted above. You have some skewed ideas on sizes and fits. You also got the wrong idea (different models fit differently) so you need to go research that as well. Good luck.
 
First off I would like to say thanks to [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] for the great writeup. But here lies my problem. I have a 2015 TE and want to go up a size on my tires. Im not doing a lift anytime soon, as it will make it too hard for my wife (5'2") to get the kid in the carseat.

So, I would like to get a beefier tire, without rubbing. On my 2013 Tacoma TRD-S/DCSB I was able to get 265/70/R17 on them with no issue, up from the 265/65/17 that they come with. I would like to stick with the same tire (I love the General Grabber AT2's), but they only come in 265/70/17 or 285/70/17 which I believe will not fit without some sort of modifications. Any insight to running a bigger tire on a STOCK truck otherwise. I do see that BFG makes the All Terrain T/A KO2 in 275/70/17 which may be a better idea...

Thanks everyone!!

-Z

you can check out YJIANG post #4336 in the 5th Gen Pics link below. he did the 275 KO2 on his stock trail. he mentioned minor rub in reverse with wheel turned, slightly stiffer ride (E load). looks awesome

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/57313-5th-gen-toyota-4runner-picture-gallery-290.html
 

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