going to 4.30s

topless87

New member
Is there anything to be weary of? My limited has open 4.10 and going to the elocker. 4.30 and putting an open 4.30 front. Both are complete differentials. Any help would be great.
 
Register to hide this ad
Thats exactly what I did. I hope you got a good deal for the swap.

Expect to lose a few mpgs on the highway
 
Thats exactly what I did. I hope you got a good deal for the swap.

Expect to lose a few mpgs on the highway

I've had both a limited with 4.30's and an Sr5 with 4.10's both on 285's. The limited with 4.30 got better gas mileage all around than my current Sr5 does with 4.10's.

Some of that could probably be attributed to the changes in gas over the last several years. But I don't think these motors turn enough RPM's on the highway with 4.10's and larger tires to keep them in the sweet spot.
 
I would go for it and not look back, and I agree about having good mileage, but I think tires size also has something to do with it. I get almost 22 mpg highway and roughly 18 city on 265/75's, mine's 4.30
 
I say go for the 4:30's. my last sr5 elocked with 4:30s snd 265/75/16 and towed my 6x12 heavy trailer and rhino great. The minute I got my new 97 limited with no locker I thought something was wrong when towing slow lane all day. Finally downgraded to a smaller trailer. My last truck loaded with 4 guys was faster than my new one with just me. I here comments on here about it not being much difference but I miss the 4:30s
 
Last edited:
Do you have just the elocker 3rd or the whole axle? Whole axle swap is easy, elocker retrofit is not. The front diff is a PITA to get out. If you're doing the swaps yourself I suggest some extra helping hands. If you think it's worth the time and money go for it. You wont be able to tell too much of a difference though.
 
entire

Do you have just the elocker 3rd or the whole axle? Whole axle swap is easy, elocker retrofit is not. The front diff is a PITA to get out. If you're doing the swaps yourself I suggest some extra helping hands. If you think it's worth the time and money go for it. You wont be able to tell too much of a difference though.

It is the entire rear diff and front diff. Just drop and swap. I am running 285 km2's and getting about 15mpg. Was only getting 18mpg with the stock 265s. Is the front diff on the 4.30s the ADD front? Thats more of what i was concerned with.
 
Glad that my '01 came with 4.30s stock. I am running 265/75/16s and get about 20-21 mpg highway at 29 PSI.
 
It is the ADD front. Touched base with the guy today and said the shaft may be bent. Was in an accident and slide around to RR and thinks the hub is bent on shaft. Kinda wiery of that, but due to lack of options im going to check it out. Opinions on that?
 
You will see about 100 rpm difference at 2000 rpm. If your speed was "x" at 2000 rpm with the 4.10 gears you will now be at 2100 rpm at "x" speed with the 4.30 gears. Not a huge difference but a step in the right direction especially if you have an auto.
 
It is the ADD front. Touched base with the guy today and said the shaft may be bent. Was in an accident and slide around to RR and thinks the hub is bent on shaft. Kinda wiery of that, but due to lack of options im going to check it out. Opinions on that?

There is no "may" the right rear shaft is definitely bent from the accident at the wheel mounting flange. Heavy 35" tire and a side load, it doesn't take much to bend these rear axles. My 2001 with stock size tires had a tweaked left rear shaft when I bought it and it had only ever run stock sized tires.

I'm confident the housing is straight but like I said, I should have another axle there that I can toss in to verify that or you can use your existing axle as well.

If you can wait I can try to do that later this weekend. Right now my wife is here and she's got to head back to the West Coast for 3 months this weekend so we've got family stuff planned.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,068
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top