Got a leak, need input

[geurillawarfare]

not that id use but it says this stuff can be put in diffs so maybe a transfer case. White Shepherd Stop Leak & Conditioner - BLU49499

I'm sorry, but if you dump this product into a device that uses friction clutches (like your torsen center diff/synchro clutches in your manual trans/whatev), you are ASKING for trouble and shouldn't be surprised if you end up with trouble down the road.

Stop leak is NEVER a good solution in any system... It's a bandaid that you use on a beater that you don't care about. Look at the chemical structures of the stop leak products on the market, and research how they affect the rubber/plastic/etc compounds in the systems you dump them in. You will understand why it is a bad idea.

 

[geurillawarfare]

FYI, I just spent all of yesterday freeing up both motors which were completely seized due to non-use for the entire life of the vehicle up to 70,00 miles, completely resealing my actuator(the two shaft seals + the big o-ring) and re-timing all the gears. The actuator works flawlessly, as far as I can tell there is no axial load on the shift shafts when fully engaged in either direction. The diff locks/unlocks in ~2-3 seconds and the 4 hi/low engages/disengages in about the same period of time.

It's a painstaking process, it took me a week to find the seals and get them in the mail, and about 6 hours to remove, repair, and reassemble everything. The hardest part was protecting the shaft seals from the sharp stepped edges on the shafts (where the teeth end and it steps up to a smooth sealing surface). I ended up coating the shafts with grease, wrapping black electrical tape around each step 1.1 times (and then leaving a "tail" of tape hanging down from each shaft), sliding the actuator on, then pulling on the tape causing it to stretch, slide around the shaft, and come out, leaving nothing but a little grease behind.

Everything is good so far, no leaks inside the actuator nor outside of it, and I can now engage that handy center diff next month when silver lake sand dunes open!

I took a bunch of pics. I think it might be good to do a write up on this and explain how i did it. I used a 12V/1A battery charger to run the motors, this was the only way I could get the unit off the transfer case without splitting that stupid case. Removing it with a seized motor is easy because you can remove the cover and then pull the shaft which 2 of the gears ride on - This lets everything spin freely even with a seized motor.

I am so happy it worked, just about as happy as I was pissed when I found out how much the actuator cost and how much work I had to do in order to install it...

 

[Jb50]

Could you post the pics? Or email it to me??

 

[hkollie1]

Negative on White Shepard for this app

Well I am duty bound to report...

I bled off some tc fluid, then I dumped White Shepard Stop Leak for engines into my TC.

I drove for half a day and did a full change.

I can see all the seals on the tc seem like over chewed gum.

The actuator leak is the same and now i seem to have new seepage from the interface with the tranny.

no recommend here.

 

[AZ4FNER]

Subed for reference.

 

[Desert Fox]

I am not a fan of stop leak additives but I am going to give this a try. Mine just started leaking and it is a very small leak.

 

[Zuke]

I saw this thread come back to life so i will give an update.

Coming up on 2 years since using the White Sheppard and beside the rear output seal leak it caused because I left it in too long the actuator seal is holding ok. I have noticed a minute amount of seepage coming from the area so I will go back to checking it every other week.
This was my weekend warrior vehicle since I had a work take home car. Well my employer suspended the take home vehicle program and I am back to driving the T4R 60 miles a day.
For a band aid fix on a vehicle with 150k+ miles, I can't complain.

 

[Desert Fox]

What is the correct amount of time to leave it in?

I just ordered a bottle.

From what I read on the website, you could leave it in with the fluid. I had not planned to drain it out but it sounds like I need to.

I saw this thread come back to life so i will give an update.

Coming up on 2 years since using the White Sheppard and beside the rear output seal leak it caused because I left it in too long the actuator seal is holding ok. I have noticed a minute amount of seepage coming from the area so I will go back to checking it every other week.
This was my weekend warrior vehicle since I had a work take home car. Well my employer suspended the take home vehicle program and I am back to driving the T4R 60 miles a day.
For a band aid fix on a vehicle with 150k+ miles, I can't complain.

 

[Zuke]

I put the whole bottle in and left it in there with new gear oil. The actuator stopped leaking in about a weeks time or one tank of gas. About 2000 miles later the White Sheppard caused the rear output shaft to swell and leak. But that was a cheap fix compared to how much the Actuator seal is to repair.

My guess is leave it in for one-two tanks of gas and then do a complete drain and fill with new gear oil.

Good luck.

 

[NJshadow93]

Anyone know the cause of this? I went mudding a couple days prior to discovering the tcase leak and I definitely don't think that could have caused it. I have over 116,000 miles so it's sort of understandable. I got quoted $500-600 from the dealer to pull the transfer case and driveshaft, reseal the transfer case and replace another seal. Does that sound about right? I want to make sure whatever they plan on doing will take care of the problem. I do not want to try any additives.

 

[Zuke]

Anyone know the cause of this? I went mudding a couple days prior to discovering the tcase leak and I definitely don't think that could have caused it. I have over 116,000 miles so it's sort of understandable. I got quoted $500-600 from the dealer to pull the transfer case and driveshaft, reseal the transfer case and replace another seal. Does that sound about right? I want to make sure whatever they plan on doing will take care of the problem. I do not want to try any additives.

Thats a great price if you have the same leak we all have. I got quoted $1800 and $1500. The cause is just a faulty O-ring that gives out after some time. Attached is the Lexus service bulletin for the same issues with the GX470 (4runner in a Tux). They started using a different O-ring but leaks are still being reported on newer model years.

 

[Aquabear]

My transfer case is leaking. The mechanic doing the BG fuel injection cleaning did a look over and found it.
I am at Toyota right now seeing if they can fix it and/BUT do it under the extended warranty- am at 89k, 10/100mi ext wrty.
I'll post the end result.
If its a ton- $2000:doh:, may get a new vehicle.
Yota gods:amen: bless me, I want to keep my Black Runner.

 

[Zuke]

My transfer case is leaking. The mechanic doing the BG fuel injection cleaning did a look over and found it.
I am at Toyota right now seeing if they can fix it and/BUT do it under the extended warranty- am at 89k, 10/100mi ext wrty.
I'll post the end result.
If its a ton- $2000:doh:, may get a new vehicle.
Yota gods:amen: bless me, I want to keep my Black Runner.

Good luck. Hopfully its covered. I know with the GX470, Lexus was covering it under warranty.

Yours is the first 2008 V6 I have heard about having it. In fact i have only read about a few V6's having it and most were 03-04. I would confirm its the actuator seal and not just a tailshaft/output seal (much much cheaper to fix).

 

[Aquabear]

Good luck. Hopfully its covered. I know with the GX470, Lexus was covering it under warranty.

Yours is the first 2008 V6 I have heard about having it. In fact i have only read about a few V6's having it and most were 03-04. I would confirm its the actuator seal and not just a tailshaft/output seal (much much cheaper to fix).

Zuke your spot on it wasn't the actuator seal but the tailshaft output seal. Bad news they wouldn't cover it under warranty. I didn't get it fixed but know I have to. I am debating going back and complaining to manager about it not being covered.

Opinions- should it be covered?

 

[NJshadow93]

Mine is not the actuator either. It's the main seal. It needs to be opened up and resealed. I am slightly relieved, having not having the actuator problem, but also pissed at the same time. Oh well, shit happens. This truck is otherwise bulletproof.

 

[Aquabear]

Mine is not the actuator either. It's the main seal. It needs to be opened up and resealed. I am slightly relieved, having not having the actuator problem, but also pissed at the same time. Oh well, shit happens. This truck is otherwise bulletproof.

Exactly, pissed but they really are! BANG PROOF!

 

[Desert Fox]

[No message]

 

[GLP]

I wanted to report my experience of a transfer case actuator leak. I had a leak where a drop would form at the bottom of the black cover plate underneath the actuator. It was a pretty small leak - by that I mean after wiping it down it would take about 3 days for a drop to form. Recently I put it in 4Lo twice (which I have only done a few times in 8 years of owning it) and drove a short distance each time, hoping that would do something. The leak is now gone. I did a drain and fill and it is still gone. I'm wondering if cycling the actuator helps seat the o-ring and should I do this occasionally?

 

[lj4r]

I have been researching a multitude of threads about the transfer case/actuator o-ring leaks. I have three 4runners and the newest one has developed a transfer case leak at the actuator. I read that there is a shop in Texas, I think in the Dallas/Fort Worth area that has a fix that is cheap and works. I have searched now for two days and can't find the link. Does anyone know of the shop, or of any fixes for the o-ring replacement other than plunking down $1000? Thanks Phil

03 V8 4wd Silver
04 V6 4wd Grey
03 V8 4wd Blue

 

[WXman]

I didn't read the whole thread. Somebody might have said this already. But for the record, you can go to a salvage yard and pick up an entire transfer case for around $600. That way you can fix the problem for half the money AND have spare parts for the future. Just swap in a whole new case.