Got a leak, need input
- Thread starter ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
- Start date
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Haven't tried tightening the bolts, after the additive helped I've kind let that go, although I should check it. I'm pretty sure there's not much you can do to prevent it but I could be wrong.
I've kept an eye on fluid level and its still full. The leak isn't still there enough to be a concern, or at least enough to make a difference.
I've kept an eye on fluid level and its still full. The leak isn't still there enough to be a concern, or at least enough to make a difference.
Zuke
Member
I changes my transfer case oil today and added an entire bottle of this stuff. I will post updates as well.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Be sure you drive for 1-2 hours after adding it to allow it to work in. Mine's still doing great, I've not noticed any type of leak to date. It may not work all the time, but for the price I'd say it's worth a shot!
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
If its a minor leak, try the white shepherd, its definitely helped mine. I backyard ever see a drip, every once in a while I might see a puddle the size of a quarter.
Zuke
Member
Here is my not so successful update with White Sheppard
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/89104-white-shepherd-transfer-case.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/89104-white-shepherd-transfer-case.html
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
How many miles have u put on it? I would assume mine has been long enough if an issue was gonna happen, it would have by now. I still have no leaks at all. Let me know if you hear from ws on this.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
I put a little over half of the bottle per their instructions (I had to email them and asl). Idk exact mileage at the moment, but I've got probably 5000 on mine with no leaks at all anywhere.
BlackWorksInc
New member
This I would love to find out about, normally the procedure is to drop and dissassemble the transfer case to remove the actuator. The problem lies in the fact that the actuator shaft is actually pinned INSIDE of the transfer case and cannot be removed from the outside. If someone figured out how to do it without having to tear apart the transfer case, that'd make working on them so much nicer! :naughty:
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
I saw the mentioned post somewhere, ill have to see if I can find it.
FRT
New member
Hey ARK, is the White Shepherds oil stop leak still working for you? Did tightening the bolts help (if you did that later on)?
Looks like mine just started up. When I pulled out of the garage this morning I saw a few drops on the floor, about where the center diff would be, took a sniff and it's gear oil (can't mistake that smell).
I'll be crawling under the truck tonight to really check it out, but I might end up going this route as well.
I noticed White Shepherds actually has a transmission stop leak and conditioner as well, think that'd be a better route?
Thanks.
Looks like mine just started up. When I pulled out of the garage this morning I saw a few drops on the floor, about where the center diff would be, took a sniff and it's gear oil (can't mistake that smell).
I'll be crawling under the truck tonight to really check it out, but I might end up going this route as well.
I noticed White Shepherds actually has a transmission stop leak and conditioner as well, think that'd be a better route?
Thanks.
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Still no leaking from the actuator. However, about a month ago I decided to check the fluid, it was almost completely dry. Never noticed any leaks anywhere else though. I filled it up and checked again this weekend, level is still good. Not sure if this is related to using the ws or not.
Zuke
Member
Here is my post on the White Shepard.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/89104-white-shepherd-transfer-case.html#post836386
After all the issues with the output shaft the seal on the actuator is not showing any sign of a leak. I would advise to add 1/2 bottle of WS to the T-case drive it until the actuator leak stops. Then drain and fill the T-case with new gear oil ASAP and no WS.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/89104-white-shepherd-transfer-case.html#post836386
After all the issues with the output shaft the seal on the actuator is not showing any sign of a leak. I would advise to add 1/2 bottle of WS to the T-case drive it until the actuator leak stops. Then drain and fill the T-case with new gear oil ASAP and no WS.
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FRT
New member
Thanks to the both of ya.
Zuke, thanks for that link as well, seems like after running the WS long enough to get it to refresh the seals, you should drain and refill with pure gear oil. Sounds good to me. =)
I wonder if there's a difference between the oil and transmission sealers. Maybe since the oil one would be drained out after 3k-5k with the regular engine oil its formula is a bit different vs the transmission sealer?
Not sure which to get
Either way I suppose I'll put it in, drive it till there are no more leaks and then drain and refill with 100% gear oil.
Thanks again.
Zuke, thanks for that link as well, seems like after running the WS long enough to get it to refresh the seals, you should drain and refill with pure gear oil. Sounds good to me. =)
I wonder if there's a difference between the oil and transmission sealers. Maybe since the oil one would be drained out after 3k-5k with the regular engine oil its formula is a bit different vs the transmission sealer?
Not sure which to get
Either way I suppose I'll put it in, drive it till there are no more leaks and then drain and refill with 100% gear oil.
Thanks again.
Looks like I am going this route as well. I was PM'ing ARK about what he did and how it ended up working out for him (Thanks ARK :thumb3
To Zuke's point yes it is possible that the output shaft seal could swell past where it should. I am not sure if maybe just the OP shaft seal rubber is more permeable and maybe soaks up too much "conditioner" or what.
Either way I would MUCH rather replace OP shaft seals then to have to drop the xfer case to get to that O-ring. That seems to be the only correct way to do the actuator O-ring. If the WS does not work I will pull the actuator back as far as I can till it hits the inside C clip, then clean the hell out of it so no oil is present, gob on some "the right stuff" and slam it back in to see what it does.
My WS should be here this week, ill post up what I find. BTW I ordered the regular stop leak WS not the specific tranny kind.
To Zuke's point yes it is possible that the output shaft seal could swell past where it should. I am not sure if maybe just the OP shaft seal rubber is more permeable and maybe soaks up too much "conditioner" or what.
Either way I would MUCH rather replace OP shaft seals then to have to drop the xfer case to get to that O-ring. That seems to be the only correct way to do the actuator O-ring. If the WS does not work I will pull the actuator back as far as I can till it hits the inside C clip, then clean the hell out of it so no oil is present, gob on some "the right stuff" and slam it back in to see what it does.
My WS should be here this week, ill post up what I find. BTW I ordered the regular stop leak WS not the specific tranny kind.
FRT
New member
Morning All =)
Well, I went to put in the WS this morning so it would have a good hour to fling around in the TC during the morning commute, but when I pulled out the fill plug, gear oil slowly poured out. I checked the truck and it's pretty dang level, I even threw a floor jack under the rear diff and gave it a few more inches just to make sure, so I'm guessing it was a bit overfilled.
Since I'd rather not let the leak go, does it make sense to drain out enough gear oil to put in the WS and go that route or should I just leave it be until it leaks itself low enough then add the WS?
Well, I went to put in the WS this morning so it would have a good hour to fling around in the TC during the morning commute, but when I pulled out the fill plug, gear oil slowly poured out. I checked the truck and it's pretty dang level, I even threw a floor jack under the rear diff and gave it a few more inches just to make sure, so I'm guessing it was a bit overfilled.
Since I'd rather not let the leak go, does it make sense to drain out enough gear oil to put in the WS and go that route or should I just leave it be until it leaks itself low enough then add the WS?
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Personally I would drain the t case add 1/2 bottle of WS and fill to the fill plug with new gear oil. Then if you want later on you can drain to get rid of WS and fill with new gear oil again. Not sure what gear oil you plan on going with but I will be getting a non synthetic due to it is less likely to leak by.
Zuke
Member
Agree. Drain and fill with 1/2 bottle WS and the cheap gear oil (walmart brand is pretty cheap 75w-90). Wash the outside of the TC and remove as much of the old caked on oil/grease as possible. Drive and check daily for the leak... repeat wash down and when you stop seeing the leak, drain the TC and refill with new gear oil.
Its been about 6 months for me and no leak. It only gets about 1000 miles a month on it.
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